Losing coolant across the country. Currently in Az and about I have to head back to AL. Need help…

[p-Bar]

Oh and don't even think about deleting, that is a can of worms on these new trucks. And also your resale value will plummet to the ground. Dealers refuse to work on it as soon as they see it... etc.
Just don't.



and you void that powertrain warranty

 

[Ozymandias]

Problem there is it will just blow the excess out of the overflow.

Mm, that depends on the rate of his loss of water.
I myself even do that any time I have to work on it or exchange the coolant. So it levels itself to the max that the bottle can hold. That way I never need to top off after some miles.
I don't care about that little spill that occurs from doing so.

 

[Tuesdak]

I myself even do that any time I have to work on it or exchange the coolant. So it levels itself to the max that the bottle can hold. That way I never need to top off after some miles.

Unintended consequences of filling the bottle "full".

These "exotic" pressurized coolant bottles are also an air cushion in the cooling system that dampen pressure waves. Why else go through this much trouble when a simple and cheaper overflow bottle and cap on the radiator did the job. I wouldn't be surprised if Emissions may play a roll too.

A pressure wave is what ruptured a fuel tank on The Concorde when a blown tire part hit the bottom of the tank. The Captain had overridden the fueling procedure and topped off the tanks eliminating the air cushion at the top of the tank.

In this case I suggest it's the engine firing that generates pressure waves not a rare one time event.

 

[HPSimpson]

Dom, what happen to you ?

 

[Dom]

Sorry for the delay and thank you for the overwhelming response!

Unfortunately, I’m not near anywhere anyone recommended - I’m actually in Page AZ for Lake Powell. I read the responses and tried the suggestion to leave the cap loose as we messed around in town this weekend, but mostly I knew I couldn’t get anything fixed and tried to at least enjoy our time here.

That brings us to today. We loaded up the truck camper and got the side by side behind us, went to Walmart to get some coolant hoping to make it 6 hours to Albuquerque which was the biggest town that was mostly on my route home.

Well, that didn’t work out and I’m currently at a restaurant back in Page. Our other option was 3 hours to flagstaff, south of us. We got about 30 miles before I had to turn around. Within 10 miles, coolant was low again. But this time the temp rose fast to 240 and I got the heat warning. Backed off and immediately it dropped down to 220 range. Pulled over, vented the coolant overflow, which again causes coolant to come rushing back into the tank from somewhere.

I’ve googled that banjo bolt for an hour and couldn’t find any good info about how to use it safely, I figure definitely not when the system is under pressure and hot.

so I tried the old jackleg way, again, of letting it cycle a few times to try to burp some air. Trying to be hopeful but at this point, I can’t imagine that is it. I had the heat on, heat off, I did the cruise control trick I read to get the engine to idle higher. The thermostat would drop the temp at random times. Sometimes at 210 and one time it was super stubborn and the truck was stuck at 219 for the longest time. Fan would kick in and out, but never stayed on very long. All of this time I had the overfill cap off, and when I gave the engine power, it would sometimes just be spitting coolant out of the top. It really seems like no matter what I do, the coolant is bubbling and getting so full of pressure.

during this hour long process on the side of the road in 100 degree temps, I did my best to analyze the water pump. A video I watched said it may have some vibration to it if it’s failing, mine seemed steady. Just like the banjo bolt, I tried to use google to figure out where the weep hole is, and couldn’t get a good answer. I definitely couldn’t find anything leaking from the front of the pump, looking down from above. Also during that time, found some posts about the water pump recall issues, and had my gf check my vin, doesn’t look like mine has a recall out.

after the hour was up, I did feel like *maybe* it wasn’t bubbling as much, but still did a good bit anytime the cap was off. So I thought “well I think that’s why it needs the pressure” so I put the cap on, let it settle, then it would open the thermostat, coolant would lower below the minimum level, so I would slowly open it, vent the built up pressure, and top it off more.

someone asked about what I’m adding- and it is a 50/50 mix of dexcool and distilled water. I realized around that point that I was now only 30 miles from where I started, with 6 hours left to Albuquerque through backroads in Navajo country, with likely limited cell service.

I gave it one more shot, and it did seem to last a bit longer, but within 10 minutes the low coolant light had come on, then off, then I got out to check, and once I vented the cap, all of the coolant came rushing back in the tank. Drove a few more miles, stopped to check, looking fine, then suddenly I was driving and overheated to 240 again. Pulled over, temp dropped immediately, went back to vent cap and add coolant and turned it around.
Stopped a few times to vent it and add a bit more coolant, but overall I added about 4 -5 mixed gallons and decided to quit kidding myself that I had an air bubble that big that just wouldn’t come out.

so like I said, now I sit back in Page AZ, waiting for tomorrow for “Liberty Auto” to open up in the morning. I really hate I couldn’t get closer to a dealer, bc I feel like the only parts available same day here are water pumps and thermostats. Well, thermostats, I think autozone and oreillys would have to have a day to get a pump, which I’ve read here I probably shouldn’t use an aftermarket one.

I was really hoping to be riding a mountain pass in colorado tomorrow, but Albuquerque was a way safer choice, and now I’m back here. At least it’s a town with a lake, but not sure what I will do with our truck camper and what we will do with no truck if it takes a few days for parts.

I really feel like this is an EGR cooler issue and im going to be livid if I took a day out of our trip to be proactive and visit that dealer in Wichita, where I told them I thought it was the EGR and they just send me on my way.

Oh, also can add that I had a cylinder misfire on 6, which my scanner said has happened 3 times. So that helps explain some of my stuttering issues. My gf did see some vapor/smoke, super slight, when we first started out today. Nothing since then.
As suggested here, I checked the exhaust tip, and it was just black soot.

I talked to my diesel buddy back home and he told me sometimes you need additives for crappy fuel, so I added some stuff that supposedly cleans the injectors. Can’t think of the name right now but added it, fueled up, reset the code, and haven’t had an issue since w the power.
Who knows at this point. I’m sure Liberty is gonna love my tourist butt rolling in tomorrow. Here’s hoping they are honest and quick like the reviews say… otherwise, we do have roadside assistance on the rig, that can hopefully tow me somewhere else if needed

thanks again for any and all advice, I’ll try anything at this point!

 

[Ltngdrvr]

Wow...
Going through that much coolant so quickly, you really should be seeing it coming out somewhere.
Black exhaust tip is a bad sign too, really should be fairly clean, not sooted up.

And, instead of a dealer shop, you really need a good independent shop, dealer is the most expensive place to get it fixed, and often the tech's are just parts changers, not good diagnosticians.

 

[sag2]

If you are going through that much coolant you should pull the EGR tube or valve loose and check for wet soot. It almost has to be the cooler.

 

[Dom]

If you are going through that much coolant you should pull the EGR tube or valve loose and check for wet soot. It almost has to be the cooler.

I had that apart at the beginning of all of this in the parking lot of oreillys in Kansas. I was on the phone w a service manager and he told me to check that. It was dry- now of course I’m going through way more coolant so possibly there is something there now.

 

[Dom]

Wow...
Going through that much coolant so quickly, you really should be seeing it coming out somewhere.
Black exhaust tip is a bad sign too, really should be fairly clean, not sooted up.

And, instead of a dealer shop, you really need a good independent shop, dealer is the most expensive place to get it fixed, and often the tech's are just parts changers, not good diagnosticians.

I can’t find it anywhere. Only coolant I ever see is what I miss when I’m pouring, which isn’t that often, or when It’s open and spurting coolant everywhere.

I thought a little black was what was supposed to be in the tip- but as I’ve said I’m new to the diesel world after having my 96 1500 for 15 years. I am a little concerned bc when I used the odb scanner today, there was a reading for dpf and it didn’t have any data. That worries me that maybe this truck was previously deleted, then slapped back together to wait for a sucker who never had a diesel before. The dealership, of course, told me it never had been. But I’ve been watching YouTube videos to learn about the process and see that the dpf stuff is the first to go I think.

 

[monovasia]

Nothing milky in the oil correct? I believe I recall the diesel guy on the roadside checked that... obviously check that again... I would be surprised the dealer would miss a deleted slapped back together situation...also I think u went to other dealers, someone would have caught it.. the dpf code may be related , I will leave that to the other experts here... really sorry for your troubles....

 

[Tuesdak]

@Dom Does this have a "Lifetime Warranty" on it? If so call their number and see what shop they want it towed to and they should help you do so. There is no shame in calling for a tow. Maybe the local shop can diagnose it for cheaper than the risk of you paying for the tow bill if it's not covered. Maybe it's simple like just a sticking/stuck thermostat.

Don't forget you can also look up Cummins truck repair places if this is on your dime. Yeah, you are in what I call "North of the middle of Nowhere".

I believe the above advice needs to be cleared up as what you are doing is risky. Never open the cooling system cap when the engine is hot. Either leave it loose from a cold start or leave it alone! Venting it when it was 240 hot, OMG, don't do that! Long ago I watched my dad turn a radiator cap to the release position from the front passenger seat and it blew clean off badly burning his arm as a good amount of the cooling system contents also blew out. Never found that cap. Lucky there was a stream nearby so he was able to stop the burning quickly. Yeah, yeah, it shouldn't boil till 240F but the slipping and burnt up auto transmission (in radiator trans oil cooler) apparently was well past that.

 

[Dom]

Nothing milky in the oil correct? I believe I recall the diesel guy on the roadside checked that... obviously check that again... I would be surprised the dealer would miss a deleted slapped back together situation...also I think u went to other dealers, someone would have caught it.. the dpf code may be related , I will leave that to the other experts here... really sorry for your troubles....

yes- he thought the oil looked good a couple of weeks ago, and I checked it today and still no milky look. It was super dark and black and a little thicker than what I’m used to in a car or my old truck, but when I looked that up, it said diesel oil is thicker to start. Is that right? The diesel mechanic guy I ran into said it would be clearly looking like chocolate milk if there was coolant getting in.

I’ve only been to this one dealer in Wichita. I bought the truck with 100000 miles on it last summer up in Illinois. Dealer there claimed it had never been deleted but I later found out the truck sat there for a few weeks before they had it up to sell it. Makes me worry something is fishy bc why would a truck at a good price sit for weeks before going on the lot. Something was being done to it. I used to sell cars and it it’s in good shape, a dealership gets it detailed and on the lot ASAP.

 

[Dom]

@Dom Does this have a "Lifetime Warranty" on it? If so call their number and see what shop they want it towed to and they should help you do so. There is no shame in calling for a tow. Maybe the local shop can diagnose it for cheaper than the risk of you paying for the tow bill if it's not covered. Maybe it's simple like just a sticking/stuck thermostat.

Don't forget you can also look up Cummins truck repair places if this is on your dime. Yeah, you are in what I call "North of the middle of Nowhere".

I believe the above advice needs to be cleared up as what you are doing is risky. Never open the cooling system cap when the engine is hot. Either leave it loose from a cold start or leave it alone! Venting it when it was 240 hot, OMG, don't do that! Long ago I watched my dad turn a radiator cap to the release position from the front passenger seat and it blew clean off badly burning his arm as a good amount of the cooling system contents also blew out. Never found that cap. Lucky there was a stream nearby so he was able to stop the burning quickly. Yeah, yeah, it shouldn't boil till 240F but the slipping and burnt up auto transmission (in radiator trans oil cooler) apparently was well past that.

The truck has something called “warranty forever” from the selling dealer. It’s a third party they use, and it works by usually locking you into service at the selling dealer.

but since I live over 150 miles away, my only requirement is documenting that oil changes are done and that I preauthorize them. I had t he dealer send me the contract and it covers a decent bit, but not the EGR cooler. I’ll actually be better off out of pocket with a head gasket.

but like you said, let’s hope it’s a sticking thermostat- I almost just went to auto zone this evening and bought one.
I just don’t think the thermostat could be causing the weird issues with the coolant being gone from the overfill, then rushing back in after the pressure is off. I’ve been wondering about a radiator cap, but surely the dealership tested it when they pressure tested.

I haven’t been in one place long enough to have Amazon send an overfill cap, and none of the auto parts stores I’ve tried can get it either.

 

[JR]

The truck may well have sat for a few weeks waiting on parts for a recall. They can not legally sell a vehicle with an open recall and since a recall affects so many vehicles sometimes parts are tough to get ahold of.

 

[Ltngdrvr]

I'm leaning toward a head gasket, but I just don't know, all that coolant has to be going somewhere. Bad head gasket doesn't necessarily mean the coolant would get into the crankcase.
What DPF code is it posting?
You need a good diesel shop that can do a coolant pressure test and some other diagnosis.
Also, those "WARRANTY FOR LIFE" deals only cover the engine, so if it was a head gasket then yes, cooling system and emissions systems, no.

 

[Cummins2014]

The truck has something called “warranty forever” from the selling dealer. It’s a third party they use, and it works by usually locking you into service at the selling dealer.

but since I live over 150 miles away, my only requirement is documenting that oil changes are done and that I preauthorize them. I had t he dealer send me the contract and it covers a decent bit, but not the EGR cooler. I’ll actually be better off out of pocket with a head gasket.

but like you said, let’s hope it’s a sticking thermostat- I almost just went to auto zone this evening and bought one.
I just don’t think the thermostat could be causing the weird issues with the coolant being gone from the overfill, then rushing back in after the pressure is off. I’ve been wondering about a radiator cap, but surely the dealership tested it when they pressure tested.

I haven’t been in one place long enough to have Amazon send an overfill cap, and none of the auto parts stores I’ve tried can get it either.

You mentioned Flagstaff, I had a repair done there at Planet Chrysler Dodge not long ago, I can sure recommend them , they took care of me. Gerard Benavente was the service writer, and just a good guy to deal with . Heres a # if interested 928-522-7586.

 

[GCroyle]

This is from way out in left field and I can even think of why this ain't the cause but throwing one in there any chance the heater core is secretly puking coolant?

 

[Ltngdrvr]

This is from way out in left field and I can even think of why this ain't the cause but throwing one in there any chance the heater core is secretly puking coolant?

That much coolant leaking wouldn't be a secret!

 

[GCroyle]

I agree should be a puddle somewhere but it's not been mentioned in discussion, just looking under another rock. And smell too.

 

[Dom]

Currently at our 3rd shop in town, and maybe our last hope for this town. I think they are going to look at it, but not 100% sure what kind of place I’m dealing with- waiting to talk to the actual tech.

it’s got to be evaporating, I’ve never seen a single puddle. If it was the water pump, it would be leaking not evaporating off right? At least some of it should make it to the ground I figure?