Manual Backup On Power Windows?

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Has anyone added a manual backup crank on the power windows or converted from power to manual? Bought my '97 used so had to take the power windows that it came with but prefer manual. Anyone out there with experience in this?


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'97 2500 CC 4x4 5spd 3. 54LSD all stock except K&N Air, EGT&Boost Guages - next Psychotty & 4" exhaust

 

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Jack not much action on this so I am going to copy it and put it on the products forum too and see if we can't get some answers for you.

 

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Since I'm one of the few people I know who might agree with you about prefering manuals, I'll share a couple of thoughts even though I can't answer your questions. My reasons for liking manuals: Long term reliability, and the thought of escaping through the window if I ever go in the drink. Your reasons may be different, but if you are unable to make the conversion, perhaps one or more of the following will make you feel better:
1) My manual Suburban windows screwed up and required an $100+ repair for parts + labor. True, electric would have been even more expensive, but manuals are not 100% bulletproof, and I do like being able to lower the far window while driving...
2) If you can't get manuals, consider adding a sliding glass rear window as another potential way out in emergencies...
3) If you can't get manuals, consider buying one of those special hammers that the EMT's carry (designed especially for, you guessed it, breaking windows), and place it in a door holster. Then you CAN get out if you have to...

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2001 ETH shipped 5/27, QC, LWB, 4WD, 3. 54, Pyro & Boost gauges

 

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HC: Thanks for your thoughts on the manual vs power window systems. My reasons are the same for preferring the manuals. I do have a rear slider and carry an automatic centre punch in the cab. I heard an interview on TV in which the automatic centre punch was recommended as a way of breaking the glass when the power fails, as it would in an unexpected submersion. I am doubtful about this suggestion, but next time I go to the wrecker's yard, I will try it out. Cheers, Pete.

 

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Jack- first, yes to the punch. If you should happen to wind up submerged, it's about the only way you'll be able to break a closed door glass.
As for converting to manual windows, you'll need a pair of manual regulators (LH & RH). These are the mechanisms which raise and lower the windows and are different from the power ones. You'll also need the cranks and you'll need to cut holes in your inner door panels for the shafts the cranks attach to.

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Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring, cat,& muffler all stolen.

 

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Bill: Thanks for the reply. I am also aware that Avon (go figure!) sells an auto escape hammer and seat belt cutter combo . Haven't seen one for real. I'm wondering if water pressure on the outside re-inforces the glass against fracture from the inside unless the blow is struck by a sharp, hard object such as a center punch. On the power to manual conversion, sounds involved and expensive. Come to think of it, I do like to be able to lower the passenger window while driving. Thanks for the input guys. #ad

PS My handle is JackTar but I'm Pete.

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'97 2500 CC 4x4 5spd 3. 54LSD all stock except K&N Air, EGT&Boost Guages - next Psychotty & 4" exhaust