What? Did you get over the idea to modify the firewall? What clutch does it have in it? I know where there's a 98 12v quad. 
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OH LOOK, there it is in the SIGNATURE! 
Darn, too bad Cheryl already got the RED thing. We could have twinkie twin trucks. But then she really likes/needs the short bed. :-laf
I could use a straight cab though.
So Andyman, your venture into the p-pump world was kinda short. What you going to try next? A VP?
Got one I'll sell ya.
Hmmm a trade maybe. You can inherit the "fancy fuel pump" project. Holler I'll give you ALL the current details/specs on that ride---but first and foremost, the cooling system is complete and intact!
Darn, too bad Cheryl already got the RED thing. We could have twinkie twin trucks. But then she really likes/needs the short bed. :-laf
I could use a straight cab though.
So Andyman, your venture into the p-pump world was kinda short. What you going to try next? A VP?
Got one I'll sell ya. Hmmm a trade maybe. You can inherit the "fancy fuel pump" project. Holler I'll give you ALL the current details/specs on that ride---but first and foremost, the cooling system is complete and intact!
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1st gen
Does anyone know of any classifieds besides our own here at TDR that list alot of 1st gen dodge diesels for sale? tried some places on the internet but not had good luck as in bringing up much to choose from, maybe I'm being to picky, just trying to get what I want though, thanks
Does anyone know of any classifieds besides our own here at TDR that list alot of 1st gen dodge diesels for sale? tried some places on the internet but not had good luck as in bringing up much to choose from, maybe I'm being to picky, just trying to get what I want though, thanks
AndyMan said:
Okay, this was on the other page and it keeps changing--so here's the latest incarnation above.
I just changed out the throttle assembly on the Sport. I can get you a shot of the one I pulled off, or the one on the truck. Or how's about a written shakedown: Stamped steel plate attached to side of pump with three bolts. On this plate is a shaft/spring/pivot assembly. This is on the front-towards radiator. The plate is bent toward the back with round and square holes for cable housing attachment/stops. The big spring in the assembly is to prevent pump damage--it cushions the WOT end of travel--there is NO tension on the assembly from it. NOW the throttle cable housing goes in the big round hole and clips to the round ball thingy on top at the assembly. The CC cable goes through one of the square holes and clips on very near the throttle attachment. Then the pump rod attaches down low and goes back under the governor section where it ball attaches again. ON MINE there is a small OEM spring going from where the throttle/cc attach and back to the "extra" square hole on the plate--which is for the TV cable on auto trucks.
At least that's how I remember it.
The rod length is supposed to be real important. I pulled the one off the Sport because I had an extra and because it was RUSTY--found out it was bent as hell too.
One of these days I'll get that one running as good as the greenie.
Oh yeah, when the headlight switch craps out and takes out the dash lights and you think it's okay cause who the heck needs dash lights anyway--check out your tail lights--they're gone too!
#@$%! Okay I read somewhere that there's a relay setup from Summit to take the heat of the HL switch. Having trouble finding it. Any yall know?
AS WELL AS THAT, The damm freakin ABS pump is WFO all the time on the Sport. So I pulled the fuse. Found out that it's real common in other makes and is $1100 to fix with new brake computer on a chevvie. Or you can ship the box to Idaho for $100. I'm going to try the salvage truck first...
Who's real good with paint and body--have buffer and compounds--afraid to burn up the corners and generally swirl the hell out of it. i needa beer.
Hey guys - it turns out that the wastegate on my HTB2 was improperly set at HTT. I called them about my problem with low boost and high EGTs and they decided to tell me that they were having a problem with their gauge when my turbo was manufactured.
So I did some adjusting on the gate today and got it up to about 38psi with a few turns of the rod - that's up from a max of about 32-33 psi. Anyway, the nice part is my wide-open-throttle EGTs appear to have dropped by about 75-100* by that small of an increase. Oo.
I was getting pretty down on this turbo, but I think it may turn out alright after all.
I'm thinking about getting a manual boost controller to finish setting this thing. Adjusting that rod a little at a time is pretty aggravating. Anyone ever use one? Paul at HTT told me to get that thing up to about 45psi.
So I did some adjusting on the gate today and got it up to about 38psi with a few turns of the rod - that's up from a max of about 32-33 psi. Anyway, the nice part is my wide-open-throttle EGTs appear to have dropped by about 75-100* by that small of an increase. Oo.
I was getting pretty down on this turbo, but I think it may turn out alright after all.
I'm thinking about getting a manual boost controller to finish setting this thing. Adjusting that rod a little at a time is pretty aggravating. Anyone ever use one? Paul at HTT told me to get that thing up to about 45psi.
Hey here's a couple of before and after pictures of my Isuzu. I don't have my emblems on in the new picture. Quite and improvement, huh? It was really in worse shape than that first picture shows. Getting that body straight was a big job.
#ad
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Truck looks great Hans.
Mine is having a problem with the freeze plug still. I lost another one. Anthony thinks maybe I could have a blown head gasket. I gotta retreive it from the field I left it in, then get another plug in it. Hopefully I can find the problem. I'm crossing fingers for no signifigant pressure build-up, and only a blocked passage. It could be as serious as a blown headgasket or worse a scored cylinder. There doesn't seem to be anything in the oil, and there is not excessive blow-by... I need to run some tests that he gave me to try. I'm leaning toward putting it in the old stripping room on the farm until about June. Need to save up a little money. Or maybe selling it.
Anthony, I saw the part numbers, and tried to get to the page in quickserve, but it didn't work out??? Could you resend that?
Wade, thanks for the explanation. I may try to get a factory spring. The tension on the one I've got doesn't feel right.
Mine is having a problem with the freeze plug still. I lost another one. Anthony thinks maybe I could have a blown head gasket. I gotta retreive it from the field I left it in, then get another plug in it. Hopefully I can find the problem. I'm crossing fingers for no signifigant pressure build-up, and only a blocked passage. It could be as serious as a blown headgasket or worse a scored cylinder. There doesn't seem to be anything in the oil, and there is not excessive blow-by... I need to run some tests that he gave me to try. I'm leaning toward putting it in the old stripping room on the farm until about June. Need to save up a little money. Or maybe selling it.
Anthony, I saw the part numbers, and tried to get to the page in quickserve, but it didn't work out??? Could you resend that?
Wade, thanks for the explanation. I may try to get a factory spring. The tension on the one I've got doesn't feel right.
Wade, I was actually thinking/talking about copy'n Andys #100, although you said #10.
On the 100-Sure, lemme find a stocker for you to cut on. Or make me a good pattern. I'm not afraid to grind.
On the buff job. I wound up using 3M Medium Cut, 3M Swirlmark Remover, 3M One Step Cleaner Wax on a wool bonnet at 2500 R's. Washed out wool between grits and very careful around sharp contours and edges. Cat/dog scratches came out pretty good.
On the ABS JUNK. No reply to the thread here at TDR. I haven't pulled the box off the junker yet. The Sport still pumps crazy if I plug in the fuse.
On finding a 1st Gen--LOTSA luck. I've searched and searched. Two BIG problems. 1. Some of the bigger stores have useless search engines. They will NOT differentiate 1500/2500/3500 although the engine appears to have the capability. 2. DEALERS call the CTD a "V8" about half the time. I've had to resort to learning pull the engine information from the VIN--which dealers almost always list.
A road trip to TX, NM, and AZ would be the best way to find one. And a lot of patience. I like the looks of the 1g's, but don't know if I'd actually want to drive one.
YES Hans, you NEED 45# for that turbo to WORK! Dangnation, I didn't know you had a problem. The rod is a BIG pain the first time because you have to break the "stake" loose. After that it shouldn't be too bad. Is there no way to regulate the air going to the wastegate? That's how the DZ is regulated--there's a controlled leak in the wastegate line. More leak= less wastegate. More: There's a tapped hole in a brass fitting in the wastegate line. Button-head screws with various sized holes drilled through them are used to allow manifold pressure to escape to atmosphere. No leak=maximum wastgate actuation. More leak=less, etc. System is easy to copy-and gives lots of variation without adjusting the rod.
The fact that HTT sent that thing out like that--well. :-{}
Still need Summit parts.
On the buff job. I wound up using 3M Medium Cut, 3M Swirlmark Remover, 3M One Step Cleaner Wax on a wool bonnet at 2500 R's. Washed out wool between grits and very careful around sharp contours and edges. Cat/dog scratches came out pretty good.
On the ABS JUNK. No reply to the thread here at TDR. I haven't pulled the box off the junker yet. The Sport still pumps crazy if I plug in the fuse.
On finding a 1st Gen--LOTSA luck. I've searched and searched. Two BIG problems. 1. Some of the bigger stores have useless search engines. They will NOT differentiate 1500/2500/3500 although the engine appears to have the capability. 2. DEALERS call the CTD a "V8" about half the time. I've had to resort to learning pull the engine information from the VIN--which dealers almost always list.
A road trip to TX, NM, and AZ would be the best way to find one.
And a lot of patience. I like the looks of the 1g's, but don't know if I'd actually want to drive one. YES Hans, you NEED 45# for that turbo to WORK! Dangnation, I didn't know you had a problem. The rod is a BIG pain the first time because you have to break the "stake" loose. After that it shouldn't be too bad. Is there no way to regulate the air going to the wastegate? That's how the DZ is regulated--there's a controlled leak in the wastegate line. More leak= less wastegate. More: There's a tapped hole in a brass fitting in the wastegate line. Button-head screws with various sized holes drilled through them are used to allow manifold pressure to escape to atmosphere. No leak=maximum wastgate actuation. More leak=less, etc. System is easy to copy-and gives lots of variation without adjusting the rod.
The fact that HTT sent that thing out like that--well. :-{}
Still need Summit parts.
And who is you favorite discount Mopar dealer? I need a thing or two.
Hans, you might gleen some info from this thread:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144865
It's geared towards 12v with AFC's, but you might be able to adopt that switch to your wastegate... ?? I haven't given it a lot of thought, that's just off the top of my head.
Wade: Here are your headlight relay part numbers from Summit. (there's a big thread here somewhere with all the right info. )
The original part number that was discontinued:
SUM-890030
The "new" one:
http://tinyurl.com/bgz5j
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144865
It's geared towards 12v with AFC's, but you might be able to adopt that switch to your wastegate... ?? I haven't given it a lot of thought, that's just off the top of my head.
Wade: Here are your headlight relay part numbers from Summit. (there's a big thread here somewhere with all the right info. )
The original part number that was discontinued:
SUM-890030
The "new" one:
http://tinyurl.com/bgz5j
Wade - here's what I'll be using to control the wastegate from now on:
#ad
You're supposed to be able to dial 'em in 1psi at a time. Yeah, adjusting that rod isn't very practical, so I had read about these elsewhere and they seem to work pretty well.
Andy - my cousin (Todd) has built a paint booth on the back of his garage and really isn't "open for business" yet - I'm not sure that he'll ever be. He's gotten into buying and restoring old muscle cars to sell and he's got 3 lined up outside his garage right now. This is pretty much what he is doing for a living right now. He's working on a '67 Chevelle SS (396 big block) that's going to be amazing. Then he's got two '66 GTOs waiting on him, but he'll probably sell one before he ever gets started on it.
I'm going to have to mention to him about doing other people's stuff too though - you're the 4th person that's inquired about it and I've only driven the truck one weekend. I'll see what his reaction is.
He had his own shop in Nashville in the 80s but has since gone to work for his dad and now it looks like he's back doing cars again.
#adYou're supposed to be able to dial 'em in 1psi at a time. Yeah, adjusting that rod isn't very practical, so I had read about these elsewhere and they seem to work pretty well.
Andy - my cousin (Todd) has built a paint booth on the back of his garage and really isn't "open for business" yet - I'm not sure that he'll ever be. He's gotten into buying and restoring old muscle cars to sell and he's got 3 lined up outside his garage right now. This is pretty much what he is doing for a living right now. He's working on a '67 Chevelle SS (396 big block) that's going to be amazing. Then he's got two '66 GTOs waiting on him, but he'll probably sell one before he ever gets started on it.
I'm going to have to mention to him about doing other people's stuff too though - you're the 4th person that's inquired about it and I've only driven the truck one weekend. I'll see what his reaction is.
He had his own shop in Nashville in the 80s but has since gone to work for his dad and now it looks like he's back doing cars again.
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I have a question for those of you more knowledgeable than I...
I was going to fill up this morning at the TA (Truck Stop) off of James Robertson Parkway this morning and when I swiped my card, it started asking me all these questions. One was would I prefer Tractor Fuel (assuming tractor truck) or Reefer Fuel. What the heck is Reefer Fuel??? I have never even heard of that. Someone gimme my daily education!!! I ain't feelin to smart right now
Thanks, Shay
I was going to fill up this morning at the TA (Truck Stop) off of James Robertson Parkway this morning and when I swiped my card, it started asking me all these questions. One was would I prefer Tractor Fuel (assuming tractor truck) or Reefer Fuel. What the heck is Reefer Fuel??? I have never even heard of that. Someone gimme my daily education!!! I ain't feelin to smart right now
Thanks, Shay
I have fueled there a few times. I don't really like to if I don't have to though. Good fuel, but a pain to get in and out of. I will usually just go inside and prepay or leave my card. That machine has gotten the better of me too. 
. I would assume that refeer fuel is for the refrigeration units on the insulated trailers that require cold transport?
. I would assume that refeer fuel is for the refrigeration units on the insulated trailers that require cold transport?
sniper351 said:I have a question for those of you more knowledgeable than I...
I was going to fill up this morning at the TA (Truck Stop) off of James Robertson Parkway this morning and when I swiped my card, it started asking me all these questions. One was would I prefer Tractor Fuel (assuming tractor truck) or Reefer Fuel. What the heck is Reefer Fuel??? I have never even heard of that. Someone gimme my daily education!!! I ain't feelin to smart right now
Thanks, Shay
snipe,
tractor fuel is reg road diesel with all the taxes added
reefer fuel is reg diesel fuel without all the road taxes. reefer fuel is for trailers running refrigeration units.
joe
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