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Mid-Tenn Chapter Roundtable

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Any Ram guys in SE Florida?

Good Dodge Mechanic in N. Alabama?

I understand that you can make serious power out of a 160/175 pump, but I would venture to guess that it wouldn't be very friendly to tow with. That is the main goal with this conversion. If it's going to need a set of twins to keep it cool toting a load, then it's no good.



We'll probably slap a 215 pump on it if it doesn't come with one. I have heard too many great things about them. Plus they are so much more responsive to cam plates and such. It would probably cost at least $700 - $800 to get Darrin to 300HP with a 160 pump, where a 215 pump would be over 300HP with just a #10 plate installed. $140 out the door - throw an HTT Super 40 on there for $850 and he should be doing ok. That's my idea anyway.



Oh, and the "94" motor that we thought we had bought for $500 turned out to be a '92 model without an injector pump. I don't want to deal with that. We're going to hold out for a 94-98 at a good deal.



I'll keep you guys updated on this project. If any of you know where a good 12V motor is, give me a ring. Thanks.
 
Taylor Diesel seemed like a good bunch of folks, however talked to their VE guy "Seth" was his name said he could get me 10% more out of the pump, rebuild would cost 800. 00 and me R&R of course, guess I'm gonna end up buying Jannetty's Hot Rod Pump and throwing a Pier's Fuel Pin at it for now, his pump starts at 235 hp, fuel pin 45 hp more, and that will be enough for me I already have one truck that is "done-up" so to speak ;) , I'm not going to get crazy with this one, still have to save my ducky's for a minute for the new VE pump, ya'll have a good one. :cool:
 
Dumb question... ... anybody wanna buy 2 Audiobahn 10" sub woofers? They are dual voice coil, rated @ 300 Watts RMS, and will run @ 4 ohms as a pair.



I have a regular cab box to go all the way across the back seat that will fit Chevy/Ford/Dodge.



$100 for box subs & box. If you know of anyone please let me know, I would like to sell these where I can put some night sights on my new Springfield. :-laf



If anyone call sell them for anything more than $100 I'll let you keep the rest. ;)
 
Got Smoke? said:
Dumb question... ... anybody wanna buy 2 Audiobahn 10" sub woofers? They are dual voice coil, rated @ 300 Watts RMS, and will run @ 4 ohms as a pair.



I have a regular cab box to go all the way across the back seat that will fit Chevy/Ford/Dodge.



$100 for box subs & box. If you know of anyone please let me know, I would like to sell these where I can put some night sights on my new Springfield. :-laf



If anyone call sell them for anything more than $100 I'll let you keep the rest. ;)



Mark, you talked to D about this, he might know someone, just a thought!!!
 
Well, I picked up my new (old) horse trailer last Friday. It needs a new floor as the old one is rotted out (wood), new wires and lights and the trailer brakes aren't working and tires (Joe), it needs paint too, but I'm going to get it legal and usable first. Anyone want to have a fix up Sniper's horse trailer meeting??? :D Just a thought, I might have smoked some crack this weekend, but I don't remember that... :-laf Anywho, if any of you have any tips about how to do this stuff, I'm all ears. I have priced everything and will get it done ASAP as I want to be able to at least use this thing.



Shay
 
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sniper351 said:
Well, I picked up my new (old) horse trailer last Friday. It needs a new floor as the old one is rotted out (wood), new wires and lights and the trailer brakes aren't working and tires (Joe), it needs paint too, but I'm going to get it legal and usable first. Anyone want to have a fix up Sniper's horse trailer meeting??? :D Just a thought, I might have smoked some crack this weekend, but I don't remember that... :-laf Anywho, if any of you have any tips about how to do this stuff, I'm all ears. I have priced everything and will get it done ASAP as I want to be able to at least use this thing.



Shay





Experience says "don't paint the new wood floor"
 
Just a FYI If it lasts thru the year. I just got a SP Diesel Box back on my truck. It beats the heck outta being down there and sucking sewage. Too bad it wasn't working right when I was there. I do plan on buying a SMARTY just for the tire size adjustment :)
 
Kimber said:
Experience says "don't paint the new wood floor"



No paint there, I thought about going with metal floor, but decided that we liked the wood better. Should I get some pre-treated wood? The lady I bought it from said she got some regular wood and then treated it with a diesel and oil mix, brushed on a few coats and it laster her a while. I'm just thinking that getting some pre-treated wood and then putting a couple of coats of Thompsons on it before putting it in the trailer would do better. Any advise? I know this is a bit off subject for us, but hey, it's our roundtable!!!
 
Got Smoke? said:
1st person I talked to! ;) :-laf



He's thinking about the subs & that square box I had on my backseat for the Lexus #ad



Let me know, I can ask a few of the guys in the JROTC at my High School that I go to and see if they know anyone...
 
Use pressure treated wood and coat it Thompson`s. You could also throw a little sand on it before it dries for some traction. Thompson`s can tend to be a little slick when its wet.
 
99Supercab said:
Use pressure treated wood and coat it Thompson`s. You could also throw a little sand on it before it dries for some traction. Thompson`s can tend to be a little slick when its wet.



Good idea, I hadn't thought of that, THANKS!!!!!! or what about putting some type of Rhino lining or something similar on the wood also, would that stick to the wood or would it just flake off. I'm thinking about doing that to teh walls up to about 18" in case the horses kick the walls or anything, it will help protect the walls. What does anyone think about that idea? TIA



Shay
 
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Give them horses too much traction and they'll climb out.



My advice is figure out how you're getting the wood in there first. Some is flexed into place--cut full length and then bowed to fit under the lip. I say cut the lip off one end or the other and then weld it back--if it is tacked. They're all different.



Whatever you put on it is nowhere near as important as washing the crap and pizz off it and keeping it in as sheltered as possible.
 
I agree Wade, I will definitely have to keep it clean. There are lips on the bottom and will probably use a saw zaw to cut one of the pieces at the front or rear to do that, I will just need to find someone with a welder to tack it back on for me. Andy, didn't you get one? The only thing with cutting out the rear piece is that there is a bar that helps support the roof on that piece also, I'll look at it again to figure it all out. The trailer is about 6 ft wide so I would imagine that it would be hard to flex those in place also, is there a certain way I could try that would make that easier?





Shay
 
sniper351 said:
I agree Wade, I will definitely have to keep it clean. There are lips on the bottom and will probably use a saw zaw to cut one of the pieces at the front or rear to do that, I will just need to find someone with a welder to tack it back on for me.



Anna's dad has a arc welder in his shop over on Factory street, but you will need to get some rods from Gallatin Welding Supply. ;)
 
17 inch

i have 4, 17" rims for a 1 ton dodge and the simulators if someone is interested call me 615 446 3393

i also have 2 17" rims for a 3/4 ton with tires.

joe
 
I think I'll go 19. 5 when I change wheel sizes. mmmhmmmph. :cool:



The "flex it in" trailers are usually the ones with 16-20' boards running lengthwise. I forget how they did our last stock trailer, but I know I would have done it faster and easier with a die grinder on a few welds. ;)



So, did I tell ya'll I spent about 6 hours on the 24-valve Monday? It took 5. 5 hours to remove the inner race from the spindle with hand tools--after a complete seizure/welding situation. So it'll be returning to its original factory front-end sooner than expected. Looking to swap it for a 12-valve flatbed 3500, 4x4, 5-speed, 215 pump. BOMBed or not. Extended/Quad preferred, but a standard cab might fit the bill. NO salty dogs--one is enough for this lifetime. :eek:
 
Clutch ?

I think I'm in the early stages of a clutch failure. Looking for opinions. Here is what's happening: if I am on a slight incline and holding the truck with the clutch while waiting for an opening in traffic, it seems to slip or is slow to engage when I finally take off.



I've also noticed that the clutch pedal is almost all the way to the top before the clutch will engage. Could some of you manual guys check to see where the pedal is when the clutch engages?



Thanks in advance, Anthony
 
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