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Mid-Tenn Chapter Roundtable

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T

Any Ram guys in SE Florida?

Good Dodge Mechanic in N. Alabama?

Before we go tossing this motor to the curb... ...



What did the cylinder walls look like when you had the head off?



When you say they checked the head, did they flux it to make sure it was not cracked?



I am assuming you used stock head bolts? What did you trq them to? (Not trying to insult you) Did you trq them in the correct sequence?



Moving onto the clutch:

Whos clutch was it? If it only had 200 miles on it, the pressure plate should have been covered under warranty. I may be able to help you on that depending on whos clutch it is.



If you want to call me, ask Scott for my number he has it.



Best of luck



Chris

Cylinder walls still had original cross hatching. I did have the head magna-fluxed and was told no cracks were present. I did use stock head bolts and torqued them in sequence to 66 ft-lbs, Long bolts in sequence to 89 ft-lbs then an additional 90 degrees in sequence. As i stated in my original post my truck only has 139,000 on it. Had a transmission shop replace clutch so I do not know who the manufacture of the clutch was. I did not mention this but during first replacement of head gasket vehicle had set for approximately one year. The reason for this was had to purchase parts and have machine work done as money became available.
 
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how many times did you torque the head bolts? back when i did my cylinder head job, haisley told me to torque it cold, run it, torque it again. run it a day or two torque it again. then maybe again. then again after six months.

i think i did it three times. but this was never to an angle--always to a ft/lb setting.

my head had lots of cracks and i bought a refurbed head complete from some outfit in texas for about 700. had that grooved for fire-rings. took head and firerings/gasket to machine shop who had done some of these before.

i also replaced the valve-springs with h/d and hand-lapped the seats just to be sure they were good. note that i found shavings inside the head when it was delivered from texas. always go behind those guys.

all worked out great except that i did pull the oil cooler and didn't replace that gasket. so it leaks coolant there still. another "to do" thing.

i also found that something hard had beat up #6 piston but that the walls were clean. i reworked the bowl a bit to smooth it out. i also did a little flow work on the passages of the head.

enough about what i recall 'bout doing mine back then.

if you bought a clutch installed for 900 you probably didn't get the good stuff... oh wait, you found that out already. never enough good can be said about peter and woody (peter's brother) at South Bend Clutch. they've offered to take care of sb clutch i didn't even install on more than one occasion.

the shop where your head was worked--is diesel cylinder head work something they do on a regular basis?

my thoughts is that it has to be in the head or the installation. and i don't think i could bear another installation of the same head. i'd get a refurb--go over it, and then do another painstaking install. with multiple rounds of torquage.

oh yeah, i put in studs too. but was told by mr. haisley that plenty of guys are pushing 60 psi on stock bolts that they retorque twice a year.

i'm pushing 50 past fire-rings/studs. supposed to take 80#. i like a margin.

now i only know what i've read and the above sketch is my only 5. 9 cylinder head job. so take that for what it's worth. (talk to some real pros).

if you pull it down again, check the block with a straightedge-who knows.
 
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The shop where I had the head worked at does alot of work for the tractor pulling industy. I know that people from all over the United States sends this guy there engine work.
 
Regardless of whos clutch, 200 miles and a rivet falls out, means it needs to be covered under warranty. I would be pushing that issue.

OEM head bolts are TRQ to yeild, did you start with new bolts? I know guys reuse them, but you shouldn't.

If the truck sat for a long period of time with the head off, did you get water in the block? Its not uncommon to drain the coolant and still have it back around 5 & 6 when you take the head off.

Pmerrill, we are neighbors, I am up in Ridgetop, give me a call, lets see if we cant get this figured out without spending thousands of dollars.
 
Big Poppa just called me and let me know thet you were tied up at the moment. I will try to contact you this evening on your land line. Thanks for the interest in helping me. I did reuse the bolts and I checked them with the gauge that came with the head set. All bolts fell within specs.
 
The shop where I had the head worked at does alot of work for the tractor pulling industy. I know that people from all over the United States sends this guy there engine work.

coolio on the headwork. it just sounded like you picked a real loser for the clutch job and i wanted to be sure on the head. have they offered any plausible explanations?



bolts--use 'em till they stretch but not after. i'm saving mine for spares for the un-studded head. i may retorque it for s/g later on.



y'all get it figgered out and check back in yo. ;)





oh and btw--the whole reason i blew my gasket (my theory) is that the previous owner had the timing up in the low twenties with lower boost. i ran the boost up without checking the timing (or torquing the head). gasket came unglued.



i like 16-18 btdc-with or without big boost. berry berry driveable.
 
2nd Gen truck

I've been asked by a close family friend to try to locate a truck for their son who graduates this year. Looking for a 2nd gen quad cab 4x4 5 spd. If anyone see's something please lst me know. Not wanting to spend more than $12-13,000.



Anthony
 
I've been asked by a close family friend to try to locate a truck for their son who graduates this year. Looking for a 2nd gen quad cab 4x4 5 spd. If anyone see's something please lst me know. Not wanting to spend more than $12-13,000.



Anthony



so that's a 98-02. there was a black one on a lot in woodbury a few weeks back. if it's still there, i'll check the transmission.



call bean and meacham--never know when they have a customer looking to sell. boruff in sparta sells a bunch-i'd check there, but be careful-they sold a bro of mine one with a bad lift pump. i think that's pretty bogus given the histroy of those pumps. he had already signed the papers or i woulda haddem fixit/discount the price.
 
mine is down. two clutch masters later, and it's finally jammed up the works good. gotta yank the 4500 and sort I TRIED TO BY-PASS THE CUSSING FILTER out. pretty sure there's a wear groove making the release bearing difficult to slide. will reline clutch (hopeful) and maybe swap trannies and whatever else needs doing. borrowed a 12v in the meanwhile--geez it shifts goods!

say did dude find a truck? the black one in woodbury is still there. it has a brushguard-no time to stop in. call 'em it's "vance motors" or somesuch.
 
We will be heading to TS. This year we are taking a bunch of newbys with us. It should be fun watching this bunch that have never seen fast trucks. RandyOo.
 
hey, i stopped and looked at the black truck. . auto. looks pretty good otherwise, but i didn't spend any time going over it.



Thanks Wade, He really wanting a 5 spd. I have sent him info on several autos that I thought were good, but no responce.



Anthony
 
btw, my clutch is working proper now.

changed the master.

and then it would still "stick" on some cold starts, like overnight. have to put it in gear start and let it buck itself loose. then would work as normal.

hasn't "stuck" in a while.

the napa plastic oem "usa" made in mexico master was bad--worked four months! i swapped it (warranty! like ever get to use those) for the new _all-china_ metal version. which is working fine now.

sure beats pulling a transmission... but the clutch does have over 80k on it. it was in the truck when i got it at 14x and now i'm at 23x,000.

talked to peter and his brother woody about the clutch and those guys are fantastic. (sorry gary they are) when it ever comes out, they'll re-work it for me. and next time i buy hydraulics... that 72 bucks still stings...

hey, the clutch took a crap when i get back to mom's to pickup my dogs after 10 hours on the road.

so it coulda been worse.

spent the last two days getting it out. ... new theory...

the new theory states that the original "sticking" problem was brought on by the first spring set that fell out. then somehow--it got better with the hydro-fix... yadda yadda

when the second set of springs fell out, there was some noise and i only drove it home and waited until i could get it in to a service bay.

this theory is supported by the bits and pieces of springs that were found both loose and embedded at the perimeter of the cover as well as the peened areas. the newest escapee springs where mostly intact. also explains the minor vibration i was detecting through my highly developed minor vibration detectors.

so i'm swapping out that, heretofore a teeny bit troublesome (and has junkyard markings), nv4500 with this nice one i was saving for my green truck. working out the details with peter tomorrow.

pulled a low mileage s/b cover out of the dumpster, just need a disc. :D
 
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Dickson TN Spring Truck Pull

Thursday night, May 13th, 7:00pm.



Classes:

6500 lb Gas

6500 lb Diesel

7500 lb Diesel or Gas

8500 lb Diesel or Gas

9000 lb Pure Stock

10500 lb Diesel or Gas

Outlaw Class if enough interest.



All classes but Outlaw:



80% Payback

Must have current registration

Driver’s under 18 must have parent or guardian present to sign their permission

No Nitrous or Propane

No weights forward of front bumper and bumper must be in stock position

Must use a clevis or pulling hitch. No balls.

26” Hitch height

Traction and ladder bars OK

Water injection OK

All drivers must attend driver’s meeting

Driver only in the truck during pull

Trucks may be trailered in



Outlaw Class will be wide open. Run what you brung. If the driver’s would like, it will be a $10 or $5 hook and winner take all. ANYTHING can pull in the Outlaw Class as long as it is deemed safe by the authorities. No license or registration is required.



EVERYBODY will pay $5 to get in the gate and when a driver signs up to pull he will get his $5 back.



ADDRESS:

Dickson County Fairgrounds

Hwy. 47 Dickson, TN 37055



If you take I40 West to the Dickson exit 172 turn right and go 3-4 miles. You will see AutoZone on the right. Turn at the light by AutoZone and the Fairgrounds will be on the left.
 
fantastic! y'all go do some smokin'.



got my truck back on the road with some friendly shop access and some superb beyond any doubt customer service by pete and woody of south bend clutch.



hey, if you cut too much offa the flywheel (yes i ground it), and then the shim winds up a little thin, and you don't have/can't afford the hotrod upgrade hydraulic assembly _with_ adjustable clutch rod, THEN tig on some extra length to the clutch rod.



if you have a world-class tigger standing around wondering if you're ever going to get your red hunkarusty truck offa his rack, that is.



that and a new front u-joint and some exhaust reconfig and she sounds better, goes smoother, and with much less vibration.



in a dozen years or so i'm going bomb it some more...



see y'all.
 
Hey, guys. Pretty quiet around here. Here's what I've been up to the last month or so.



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New wife and a new Harley. Life is good. Some of you have met Brittany. She's the one I've had for the past 9 years and then some. We ran off and got hitched on a whim and didn't tell anyone. It was great. Haha.
 
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