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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) modify stock air box

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Better here

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) bad mpg with new pump

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With all the aftermarket air filter setups around that claim higher torque/hp, is there anything a backyard mechanic can do to the stock air box to increase performance? I understand from a earlier TDR mag. article, the biggest restriction is the fender opening to the box. Would punching additional holes in the box or something else be helpful? Has anyone else modified their stock box?
 
I drilled a couple of holes in the air box near the bottom on the firewall side some years ago. Before I did that I was able to raise the filter minder even with a new filter when I really got on it. Since then the filter minder has not moved.
 
After I installed my TST fuel plate I too was getting the fuel minder thingy to go at least half way up every time I got on it a little. Took a 2 inch hole saw and made three holes in the bottom of the stock air box. No more fuel minder movement. Side note: I had a K&N air filter in at the time. It seems like when you increase the boost (as with the TST kit) The stock air box wont handle the increase in incoming air. Drill a few holes in the bottom of the stock air box-end of problem.
 
My stock air box is now sporting 2- 2" holes facing the firewall, and a third hole, 1 1/2" in dia. facing the fender. Maybe I'll add a few in the bottom if this doesn't do it. Easy fix, and I want to thank you for the help.
 
Oh yeah, one more thing with the air box. The rubber studs tend to stick in the bottom of the box which sometimes causes them to strip off of the screws when you remove the box from the truck. I use Sil Glide on them to prevent that.
 
Joe, I just pull the box up off the threads, is this a no-no? I thought that was the design, but evidently I'm contributing to its demise?



I haven't had a chance to run the truck yet, but will tomorrow. I had a Firestone Air bag that the fitting on the bag was leaking, so I worked on that today. I'll let you know how it sounds tomorrow and if there is a noticeable change. I hope not, or at least very little.
 
When you pull up on the air box there should be three plastic posts not three threaded screws. If there are three threaded screws sticking up then the posts are in the bottom of the box and are stripped. Replacments are cheap at Dodge. Getting them out of the bottom of the box may not be easy. I always have a tube of Sil Glide on hand for stuff like that. I use it to put hoses on barbed fittings too. NAPA sells it.
 
You're right Joe, the studs are there and threaded. I guess the guy ahead of me (I'm second owner) must have started the stripping, and I aggravated it from there. The studs look fine, but the plastic things are shot if they are suspose to screw on/off. I'll get some of the lube as you mentioned. Thanks for the tip.



CFowler; I was able to take the truck for a short run (couple of miles) and I can't tell any appreciable difference in the sound. If it is any louder, it is VERY little.
 
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something I did, that a shadetree mech could appreciate, is move the passenger side battery back to where the breather box sat and made an alluminum box to shield the batter from the turbo heat. it requires some longer battery cables. I then took a 4in piece of 60deg angled exhaust pipe and mitred it to fit past the alternator and connected it to the turbo with some 4in ID fuel hose (about 4in long). I then attached an AFE filter to the 4in elbo and made a small sheet metal shelf that sits where the old plastic battery box sat for the filter to rest on. WHY? It seemed to me that I could catch a little cold air coming through the grill area. Not sure if I was successful, but it can't hurt. Total cost, besides the filter, about $30 (i scrounged the sheet metal for the battery box and filter shelf from a scrap bin where I work). I can post pics or email them if anyone is interested.
 
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