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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Modifying fuel system so temperature input to VP44, 80* - 100*, your inputs.
- Thread starter rweis
- Start Date
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- Status
KO Engineering makes the RASP. DTT and Ollie Poole (www.Powerbypoole.com) are distributors.
This afternoons data
It was 98 under the hood before engine start, 3/4 tank full.
Condition,VP Fuel inlet, VP electronics, VP Return banjo, VP body 1" down from electronics and about 1/2" forward, mileage, OAT
65mph,122,117,120,127,55843,98
stop/go,126,123,123,134,55853
65mph,135,131,130,140,55871
A/C on,151,150,137,152,55875
A/C off,130,128,126,138,55879
Why would the A/C on make such a diference? Gary, can you do some A/C on, off? What's up with that?
I think I shot the fuel inlet better today, but I now think all I am getting is the body of the VP at the inlet represented in the inlet swivel fitting not the incomming fuel temp.
I would guess there is a general VP body temp rise to about 140* unloaded. Loaded it probably would be higher. Electronic bay seems to be about 130* - 135*.
I would guess that as long as there is at least 1/2 tank, the tank will heat sink return fuel ok. Less than 1/2 tank the fuel will not cool as well, as the tank fuel will not throw off the VP heat and the fuel will get hotter and hotter.
It may be more important to cool down the VP than the turbo although both cool down together (assuming 1/2 tank + fuel)
Tommorrow and next day are plumbing days so next reading from me will have RASP, inline cooler, tank vent pipe return for VP.
Not real clear data, but I put the data exactely as recorded. Cooler installed data should be interesting to compare.
Bob Weis
This afternoons data
It was 98 under the hood before engine start, 3/4 tank full.
Condition,VP Fuel inlet, VP electronics, VP Return banjo, VP body 1" down from electronics and about 1/2" forward, mileage, OAT
65mph,122,117,120,127,55843,98
stop/go,126,123,123,134,55853
65mph,135,131,130,140,55871
A/C on,151,150,137,152,55875
A/C off,130,128,126,138,55879
Why would the A/C on make such a diference? Gary, can you do some A/C on, off? What's up with that?
I think I shot the fuel inlet better today, but I now think all I am getting is the body of the VP at the inlet represented in the inlet swivel fitting not the incomming fuel temp.
I would guess there is a general VP body temp rise to about 140* unloaded. Loaded it probably would be higher. Electronic bay seems to be about 130* - 135*.
I would guess that as long as there is at least 1/2 tank, the tank will heat sink return fuel ok. Less than 1/2 tank the fuel will not cool as well, as the tank fuel will not throw off the VP heat and the fuel will get hotter and hotter.
It may be more important to cool down the VP than the turbo although both cool down together (assuming 1/2 tank + fuel)
Tommorrow and next day are plumbing days so next reading from me will have RASP, inline cooler, tank vent pipe return for VP.
Not real clear data, but I put the data exactely as recorded. Cooler installed data should be interesting to compare.
Bob Weis
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Anybody thought about routing a fuel line over to the right side of the engine and taping the fuel line to the suction line leading to the A-C compressor, maybe parallel the lines about 2 feet and wrap with insulation? Most of the time its hot outside the A-C is also running and the cold line is probably below *50. The turbo and exhaust are also right there so care in routing would be needed to prevent heating what you just cooled...
Jared
Jared
Danger Ahead!
I've been thinking (look out) about the problem FedEx had and the thermal gain after shutdown.
How about this: Run the lift pump for a short time after engine stop. Seems like a turbo-lifesaver could be used for this purpose. The fuel route at stop would have to be figured out first. But even bypassing fuel would remove some heat from the VP-44. You could even wire a switch to supply 12V to the LP so while you are paying for your fuel or ordering a bite to eat your VP-44 is not heat soaking.
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Thanks, that was the pic I was thinking of.
Having worked with Peltier Junctions before I dont believe they could move the large amount of heat needed. As stated before, they dont like overheating and very likely wouldnt last long.
I've been thinking (look out) about the problem FedEx had and the thermal gain after shutdown.
How about this: Run the lift pump for a short time after engine stop. Seems like a turbo-lifesaver could be used for this purpose. The fuel route at stop would have to be figured out first. But even bypassing fuel would remove some heat from the VP-44. You could even wire a switch to supply 12V to the LP so while you are paying for your fuel or ordering a bite to eat your VP-44 is not heat soaking.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks, that was the pic I was thinking of.
Having worked with Peltier Junctions before I dont believe they could move the large amount of heat needed. As stated before, they dont like overheating and very likely wouldnt last long.
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I like the idea of cooling the fuel to make the VP live longer. A cooler seems pretty simple to install and be maintenance free... unless you add a fan and temp sensors. I like the "KISS" theory... keep it simple stupid. I'm sure it would cool the electronics some as well... probably not a lot.
If you really want to keep the electronics cool, relocate them inside the passenger compartment like on race cars. There is nothing to wear out or maintain and it will keep them cooler than anything you can add under the hood. Simplicity is a major asset!!!
Steve
If you really want to keep the electronics cool, relocate them inside the passenger compartment like on race cars. There is nothing to wear out or maintain and it will keep them cooler than anything you can add under the hood. Simplicity is a major asset!!!
Steve
A couple of post have had that idea of moving the electronics.
Is there a wire harness going into the VP? What does the electronics bay look like anyway? Is it just a compartment?, or does it have contacts intergral to it?
Certainly something to think about. Wouldn't it be a gas (diesel) if you could extend a half dozen wires into the cab and put the electronics in the cab.
You know sort of like the lp. Comes on the engine because it is easier to install a "whole" engine than put the pump where it belongs. Maybe the same for the VP. Maybe the electronics should be somewhere other than the body of the VP, but it was easier to put them in the body than have another part plugged in somewhere else (like the airconditioned cab).
You guys that work on the VP's fill us in here. What does the VP electronics bay look like?, connections, fit, what is connected to what electrically?
We have moved lp's, sure can move an electronics package.
side note ----------------
I started puting in the RASP today. I get fairly anal about these things and have to have it "exactely" the way I want it. Got the RASP mounted fairly easily, balancer bolts and all, got the belt and pulley's on no problem, and got about 1/2 the plumbing done before the afternoon rains. I thought I could do the RASP, cooler, VP back to the tank vent all in 2 days. Ain't gonna happen. I'll finish up the RASP plumbing tommorrow and get the VP going to the vent line and figure out how the physical mounting for the cooler will be on another day. I can then take some readings with just the RASP and the tank vent return for the VP.
Pictures of the VP electronics would sure be "interesting"
Bob Weis
Is there a wire harness going into the VP? What does the electronics bay look like anyway? Is it just a compartment?, or does it have contacts intergral to it?
Certainly something to think about. Wouldn't it be a gas (diesel) if you could extend a half dozen wires into the cab and put the electronics in the cab.
You know sort of like the lp. Comes on the engine because it is easier to install a "whole" engine than put the pump where it belongs. Maybe the same for the VP. Maybe the electronics should be somewhere other than the body of the VP, but it was easier to put them in the body than have another part plugged in somewhere else (like the airconditioned cab).
You guys that work on the VP's fill us in here. What does the VP electronics bay look like?, connections, fit, what is connected to what electrically?
We have moved lp's, sure can move an electronics package.
side note ----------------
I started puting in the RASP today. I get fairly anal about these things and have to have it "exactely" the way I want it. Got the RASP mounted fairly easily, balancer bolts and all, got the belt and pulley's on no problem, and got about 1/2 the plumbing done before the afternoon rains. I thought I could do the RASP, cooler, VP back to the tank vent all in 2 days. Ain't gonna happen. I'll finish up the RASP plumbing tommorrow and get the VP going to the vent line and figure out how the physical mounting for the cooler will be on another day. I can then take some readings with just the RASP and the tank vent return for the VP.
Pictures of the VP electronics would sure be "interesting"
Bob Weis
"A couple of post have had that idea of moving the electronics.
Is there a wire harness going into the VP? What does the electronics bay look like anyway? Is it just a compartment?, or does it have contacts intergral to it?
Certainly something to think about. Wouldn't it be a gas (diesel) if you could extend a half dozen wires into the cab and put the electronics in the cab. "
I suspect a relocation like that is far beyond most on this board. In addition to the plugin wiring harness to the internal VP control board, there are internal wires/leads going to fuel control solenoids, etc. , so it might be pretty complicated to do properly.
At least as these truck age, they are steadily dropping off warranty, so more fodder for experiments for those willing and brave enough to experiment...
Until we get a good handle on what temperature ranges are common to the VP-44 under varying ambient temps and truck loading, at the electronics, it's probably premature to get too extreme with fixes - I'll try running the A/C tomorrow on my run to town, and see what temp changes take place on and around the VP.
I'm also running a temp test at the BHAF to see how underhood air in that area compares to ambient - want to see if all the fancy holes in firewalls some are doing is actually worth the butchery and trouble...
Is there a wire harness going into the VP? What does the electronics bay look like anyway? Is it just a compartment?, or does it have contacts intergral to it?
Certainly something to think about. Wouldn't it be a gas (diesel) if you could extend a half dozen wires into the cab and put the electronics in the cab. "
I suspect a relocation like that is far beyond most on this board. In addition to the plugin wiring harness to the internal VP control board, there are internal wires/leads going to fuel control solenoids, etc. , so it might be pretty complicated to do properly.
At least as these truck age, they are steadily dropping off warranty, so more fodder for experiments for those willing and brave enough to experiment...
Until we get a good handle on what temperature ranges are common to the VP-44 under varying ambient temps and truck loading, at the electronics, it's probably premature to get too extreme with fixes - I'll try running the A/C tomorrow on my run to town, and see what temp changes take place on and around the VP.
I'm also running a temp test at the BHAF to see how underhood air in that area compares to ambient - want to see if all the fancy holes in firewalls some are doing is actually worth the butchery and trouble...
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HOOOOKAY - another test run today...
Ambient 91 degrees
5 mile run with A/C on
Frantz and stock fuels filter canisters = 114 degrees
Top of VP-44 = 112 degrees
VP body = 120 degrees
Same length run, A/c off... Ambient rise to 93 degrees...
fuel filters = 108 degrees
top of VP = 108 degrees
VP body = 114 degrees
Seems the A/C (as expected) does cause a temp rise - but in my case not as extreme as Bob's. It's worth pointing out that my fuel PSI, with my pusher, idles at 20+ PSI, and runs about 16 PSI at cruise - so I might be getting added VP cooling due to more fuel volume being passed thru the pump pretty much all the time...
I would be helpful if we had a Bosch spec on rated temperature extremes for the VP-44, both in terms of ambient temperature, and also fuel temperature - wonder if anyone has that info?
On another note, as mentioned in a post further above, while the VP temp test was being done, I also did a test on the effective difference in underhood temps at my BHAF to see what the difference was at that location compared to ambient. Ambient was 91 degrees - here's what was registered right at the BHAF:
#ad
In case you can't read that thermometer, it's slightly under 100 degrees - WITHOUT cutting holes in firewalls or fancy ducting, other than the turbo heatshield I have installed...
Ambient 91 degrees
5 mile run with A/C on
Frantz and stock fuels filter canisters = 114 degrees
Top of VP-44 = 112 degrees
VP body = 120 degrees
Same length run, A/c off... Ambient rise to 93 degrees...
fuel filters = 108 degrees
top of VP = 108 degrees
VP body = 114 degrees
Seems the A/C (as expected) does cause a temp rise - but in my case not as extreme as Bob's. It's worth pointing out that my fuel PSI, with my pusher, idles at 20+ PSI, and runs about 16 PSI at cruise - so I might be getting added VP cooling due to more fuel volume being passed thru the pump pretty much all the time...
I would be helpful if we had a Bosch spec on rated temperature extremes for the VP-44, both in terms of ambient temperature, and also fuel temperature - wonder if anyone has that info?
On another note, as mentioned in a post further above, while the VP temp test was being done, I also did a test on the effective difference in underhood temps at my BHAF to see what the difference was at that location compared to ambient. Ambient was 91 degrees - here's what was registered right at the BHAF:
In case you can't read that thermometer, it's slightly under 100 degrees - WITHOUT cutting holes in firewalls or fancy ducting, other than the turbo heatshield I have installed...
Last edited by a moderator:
Progress report:
Have RASP installed and VP return is to the filler vent pipe. Did a short test drive tonight for leak check and will resume taking readings tommorrow.
Rasp has a bypass on a T just before the VP and the RASP bypass is set at 12 psi. I opened the bypass to see how it functions. A conical plunger with holes at a greater diameter than the seat of the cone. It has an internal spring that would seem to be somewhat adjustable in length to be able to vary the opening pressure. I will also call KO Engineering to see if they have a 14 psi spring. There is a thread on the DTT site that Bosch wants 12 - 14 psi as an input to the VP44. Note above that Gary is above these values but seems to be getting better cooling as well.
Since the RASP bypass goes to the tank vent line I did not want the VP bypass to be competing for flow so I installed a second tank vent line return for just the VP. As a side note the OEM fuel supply line is 3/8" the VP return line is . 310 so a 3/8 compression fitting will not work on the VP return line. However the VP return line does slide nicely into the stainless braided hose that measured . 330 (not the . 375 I assumed it to be) and I put 3 small hose clamps staggered on the return line / 3/8 braided hose joint (which is about 3 inches long) thinking that there is no pressure on the line and 3 small hose clamps should keep it leak free.
I have my OEM lp at the tank and the plumbing for the RASP was not difficult, just a little time consuming to measure and fit everything correctly. I do like the install though. The little pump is a very simple pump amd the belt pulley's reduce the engine speen about 1/2 to the pump rpm. The mechanical RASP installation was a very simple follow the direction tasks. The fit is EXCELLANT! The clearance is EXACT! The machining is very well done! The adjustability is very simple and way more than needed, you have a lot of leeway in the adjustability to get the belt just the right tension.
I still have the fuel cooler and fan and fuel line gauges to install. The gauges will be another 2 weeks and I have to fit the H7b into the bed pocket(s) somewhere.
More to come.
Bob Weis
Have RASP installed and VP return is to the filler vent pipe. Did a short test drive tonight for leak check and will resume taking readings tommorrow.
Rasp has a bypass on a T just before the VP and the RASP bypass is set at 12 psi. I opened the bypass to see how it functions. A conical plunger with holes at a greater diameter than the seat of the cone. It has an internal spring that would seem to be somewhat adjustable in length to be able to vary the opening pressure. I will also call KO Engineering to see if they have a 14 psi spring. There is a thread on the DTT site that Bosch wants 12 - 14 psi as an input to the VP44. Note above that Gary is above these values but seems to be getting better cooling as well.
Since the RASP bypass goes to the tank vent line I did not want the VP bypass to be competing for flow so I installed a second tank vent line return for just the VP. As a side note the OEM fuel supply line is 3/8" the VP return line is . 310 so a 3/8 compression fitting will not work on the VP return line. However the VP return line does slide nicely into the stainless braided hose that measured . 330 (not the . 375 I assumed it to be) and I put 3 small hose clamps staggered on the return line / 3/8 braided hose joint (which is about 3 inches long) thinking that there is no pressure on the line and 3 small hose clamps should keep it leak free.
I have my OEM lp at the tank and the plumbing for the RASP was not difficult, just a little time consuming to measure and fit everything correctly. I do like the install though. The little pump is a very simple pump amd the belt pulley's reduce the engine speen about 1/2 to the pump rpm. The mechanical RASP installation was a very simple follow the direction tasks. The fit is EXCELLANT! The clearance is EXACT! The machining is very well done! The adjustability is very simple and way more than needed, you have a lot of leeway in the adjustability to get the belt just the right tension.
I still have the fuel cooler and fan and fuel line gauges to install. The gauges will be another 2 weeks and I have to fit the H7b into the bed pocket(s) somewhere.
More to come.
Bob Weis
Drive to work 8/5 17 miles
Conditions,fill level, Fuel in, Electronics, Return, Body, mileage, OAT.
65mph,3/4,119,101,105,113,55915,77*
Previous averages
xxx,x/x,153,136,138,146,xxxxx,97*
It is the first drive of the day, it is cool, tank fuel should be at ambient temp.
So far most noticeable is fuel psi vs rpm. Before it was constant at approx 13-15 psi from OEM lp. Now it varies with engine speed. The only reading I have right now (sensor swap for psi at VP) is pre filter. 30 mph/15psi 65mph/18psi. Not enough data yet to definitely trend. Trying to get input temp more accurate by hold infarred gun right on a T fitting to get more accurate reading so input temp comparisons not valid yet.
Bob Weis
Conditions,fill level, Fuel in, Electronics, Return, Body, mileage, OAT.
65mph,3/4,119,101,105,113,55915,77*
Previous averages
xxx,x/x,153,136,138,146,xxxxx,97*
It is the first drive of the day, it is cool, tank fuel should be at ambient temp.
So far most noticeable is fuel psi vs rpm. Before it was constant at approx 13-15 psi from OEM lp. Now it varies with engine speed. The only reading I have right now (sensor swap for psi at VP) is pre filter. 30 mph/15psi 65mph/18psi. Not enough data yet to definitely trend. Trying to get input temp more accurate by hold infarred gun right on a T fitting to get more accurate reading so input temp comparisons not valid yet.
Bob Weis
Rather than try to get a fuel temp reading off the small diameter fuel line itself, I have settled on just reading the fuel canister(s) - should be pretty much the same as what's in the lines - and at this point, both the stock and Frantz filters register pretty much the same temps.
And it will be interesting to see the effect of more fuel flow upon the VP-44, especially since you went from one fuel delivery system to another...
And it will be interesting to see the effect of more fuel flow upon the VP-44, especially since you went from one fuel delivery system to another...
I have been trying to get it off a fuel line. Very difficult to hit just the T fitting and not get the engine block in the reading.
From your reading off the Frantz canister, what do you think about getting the inlet temp off the ff body? I wonder how much under hood temp and how much engine temp would be absorbed in the ff body. Maybe too much.
Fuel temp gauges do not come for about 1 - 1 1/2 weeks. Then I will get a really good in line reading.
I am going to do data runs this weekend. I need to get the infared gun back to our maintenance department on 8/8.
I think there is a definite difference with more fuel available. The ambient temp difference was 20*, the temp difference was 30*. Could be not thouroughly up to operating temperature yet though.
More to come,
Bob Weis
From your reading off the Frantz canister, what do you think about getting the inlet temp off the ff body? I wonder how much under hood temp and how much engine temp would be absorbed in the ff body. Maybe too much.
Fuel temp gauges do not come for about 1 - 1 1/2 weeks. Then I will get a really good in line reading.
I am going to do data runs this weekend. I need to get the infared gun back to our maintenance department on 8/8.
I think there is a definite difference with more fuel available. The ambient temp difference was 20*, the temp difference was 30*. Could be not thouroughly up to operating temperature yet though.
More to come,
Bob Weis
"From your reading off the Frantz canister, what do you think about getting the inlet temp off the ff body? I wonder how much under hood temp and how much engine temp would be absorbed in the ff body. Maybe too much. "
The fuel filter bodies ARE where I'm getting my fuel temp readings - and since readings on both the Frantz and the OEM filter are pretty much identical, doubt engine heat - especially while the truck is in motion - has much effect on temperature. It's sure lots easier to get readings there than anything reliable or repeatable off the fuel line itself...
At this point, at least on my setup where no hardware changes have been made, I really don't see much need for additional temp readings, other than in a couple of weeks when we take the RV out for a run over to the coast for a week or so - several hefty steep grades and summer temps will show what are likely to be worst-case temp scenarios for the fuel system and VP-44...
Other than that, my specific temp rise above ambient seems pretty stable and predictable - now all I need to know, is how close I am to DC/Bosch spec temperature limitations for the VP-44...
Shucks, after all the discussion as to alternative solutions to provide added cooling for the VP-44, wouldn't it be neat if the addition of a pusher not only cured fuel flow problems, for the VP-44 and stock LP, but ALSO provided the additional COOLING flow we are now looking into as well!
The fuel filter bodies ARE where I'm getting my fuel temp readings - and since readings on both the Frantz and the OEM filter are pretty much identical, doubt engine heat - especially while the truck is in motion - has much effect on temperature. It's sure lots easier to get readings there than anything reliable or repeatable off the fuel line itself...
At this point, at least on my setup where no hardware changes have been made, I really don't see much need for additional temp readings, other than in a couple of weeks when we take the RV out for a run over to the coast for a week or so - several hefty steep grades and summer temps will show what are likely to be worst-case temp scenarios for the fuel system and VP-44...
Other than that, my specific temp rise above ambient seems pretty stable and predictable - now all I need to know, is how close I am to DC/Bosch spec temperature limitations for the VP-44...
Shucks, after all the discussion as to alternative solutions to provide added cooling for the VP-44, wouldn't it be neat if the addition of a pusher not only cured fuel flow problems, for the VP-44 and stock LP, but ALSO provided the additional COOLING flow we are now looking into as well!
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Sorry, I did not write that very well.
I was musing about me using the ff body to get the input fuel temp readings, and would the underhood or engine temp distort the readings much. The ff would be an easy target. Way easier and vastly more repeatable than where I have been trying to get the T fitting. I'll try the ff for input temp readings.
I am still going to take readings for awhile and probably post them.
I think I remember reading a Bosch limit of 160*. I'll go back and see if I can find exactely what part of the VP44 the 160* limit pertains to.
From another thread on fuel temperatures:
"From the QSXK Cummins data sheet I have on my desk, it lists 160F as the MAX inlet temperature. "
Bob Weis
I was musing about me using the ff body to get the input fuel temp readings, and would the underhood or engine temp distort the readings much. The ff would be an easy target.
Way easier and vastly more repeatable than where I have been trying to get the T fitting. I'll try the ff for input temp readings. I am still going to take readings for awhile and probably post them.
I think I remember reading a Bosch limit of 160*. I'll go back and see if I can find exactely what part of the VP44 the 160* limit pertains to.
From another thread on fuel temperatures:
"From the QSXK Cummins data sheet I have on my desk, it lists 160F as the MAX inlet temperature. "
Bob Weis
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Another test run - out 15 miles @ 60 MPH on level road, A/C on, ambient temp 80 degrees:
Both fuel canisters = 108 degrees
VP-44 body AND top 111 degrees
I gotta tell ya, I very impressed with the temps I am seeing, a pretty consistent 30 degree rise above ambient - and the heat soak after shutdown in normal driving isn't nearly as extreme as I feared. Still a final towing test in the hills and summer temps, and that ought to about wrap this up...
By the way, the Frantz oil bypass canister registered 140 degrees, and the BHAF again displayed a 10 degree rise above ambient - also not bad!
Both fuel canisters = 108 degrees
VP-44 body AND top 111 degrees
I gotta tell ya, I very impressed with the temps I am seeing, a pretty consistent 30 degree rise above ambient - and the heat soak after shutdown in normal driving isn't nearly as extreme as I feared. Still a final towing test in the hills and summer temps, and that ought to about wrap this up...
By the way, the Frantz oil bypass canister registered 140 degrees, and the BHAF again displayed a 10 degree rise above ambient - also not bad!
Your temperatures are where I am trying to get to.
Maybe the Frantz in the fuel feed acts as a heat reducer, maybe the higher fuel pressures, but your temps are where we need to be to keep the VP cool.
It would be good if several others would measure VP temps and tell if they have pushers.
Supposedly the higher fuel pressures make the VP44 run hotter. Seems to be controdictory. You have measured yours.
Bob Weis
Maybe the Frantz in the fuel feed acts as a heat reducer, maybe the higher fuel pressures, but your temps are where we need to be to keep the VP cool.
It would be good if several others would measure VP temps and tell if they have pushers.
Supposedly the higher fuel pressures make the VP44 run hotter. Seems to be controdictory. You have measured yours.
Bob Weis
Well, these are still pretty local, short runs - and I haven't properly added in the normal fuel return heating that occurs in longer drives - and my fuel level is above half a tank. A longer drive combined with lower fuel level might make a significant difference, and our up-coming RV trip will round out the remaining puzzle pieces! 
You've seen the email I sent to Cummins about late revisions to the VP electronics board, and requesting ambient and fuel temp specs - if we get that info, it too will help...
You've seen the email I sent to Cummins about late revisions to the VP electronics board, and requesting ambient and fuel temp specs - if we get that info, it too will help...
Make sure...
Just to make sure the tests are really comparing apples to apples, please include the fuel tank level. The temp will rise much faster and in theory get higher if the fuel tank quantity is low compared to a full tank.
The tank surface area that is conducting and radiating heat to the ambient air will be greater if the tank is full and it will take a lot longer to bring 30+ gallons of fuel up to a stabilized temperature than it will with only say 8-10 gallons.
I measured my temps with between 3/4 and 1/2 tank after at least an hour on the freeway. I have removed my electric fan and have my engine driven fan reinstalled for towing.
BTW: the duct I made was just a piece of shop vac hose that had the wire inside to keep the hose from kinking and collapsing. It took about five minutes to route it from the gap beside the radiator around the washer resevoir and battery to the top of the VP.
Greg L
Just to make sure the tests are really comparing apples to apples, please include the fuel tank level. The temp will rise much faster and in theory get higher if the fuel tank quantity is low compared to a full tank.
The tank surface area that is conducting and radiating heat to the ambient air will be greater if the tank is full and it will take a lot longer to bring 30+ gallons of fuel up to a stabilized temperature than it will with only say 8-10 gallons.
I measured my temps with between 3/4 and 1/2 tank after at least an hour on the freeway. I have removed my electric fan and have my engine driven fan reinstalled for towing.
BTW: the duct I made was just a piece of shop vac hose that had the wire inside to keep the hose from kinking and collapsing. It took about five minutes to route it from the gap beside the radiator around the washer resevoir and battery to the top of the VP.
Greg L
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