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Moisture Content in Brake Fluid?? 3%

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I went to a local tire store to get my winters tires replaced. The did a mechanical check and informed me my Ball Joints were worn (33,000 miles - waiting for lowers from CARLI before I replace) AND that the moisture content of my brake fluid was 3%, did I notice my brakes acting funny?

Whats the deal with that? Are they serious? How would my brake fluid get diluted with H2O?

Thanks
 
I've never heard of testing brake fluid moisture content, but most manufacutures recommend flushing and replacing the brake fluid at set time intervals (not mileage based). Brake fluid absorbs moisture, so will degrade over time.



My VW TDI manual says to replace every two years. Seems a little soon on a 2008 truck.
 
Of course the ball joints are worn, they where worn after the first time the wheel were turned after the truck came off the assembly line. As stated above the brake fluid has an affinity for water and readily mixes with moisture. I would be skeptical of this shops evaluation. I had that pulled on me at a dealer when I took the 99 I had in for the hitch recall. There were some dudes swarmed the truck when I went inside and promptly came in with samples of the fluids in the truck showing me how "bad" the colors were. The truck, at that time had few miles and had been serviced regularily by me so I knew everything was up to date. bg
 
If the fluid is clear, and less than two years old don't worry about it. Three percent isn't a whole lot.



Brake fluid has an affinity for water and will absorb it from the atmosphere.



I would be very leary of a shop that uses these kind of tactics.
 
Brake Fluid Change Interval

My wife's 04 VW has a 2 year maintenance period for changing out the brake fluid. I have never seen an "American" or "Japanese" vehicle with brake fluid change on the schedule. I live in Phoenix, so there isn't any water in air, but I followed the change instructions anyway. I really should do the same for my 04. 5 RAM.
 
I just flushed mine. Truck is now 5 years old with low mileage, (only 50,000 miles), but the fluid was awful dark. I bought a Motive Brake Bleeder Model 380 with all the adapters to use in my shop. It's basically a pump up type bug sprayer unit with a pressure gauge and quick connectors for the various master cylinder tops.

The unit just pressurizes the master cylinder reservoir and all you have to do is hook up the catch bottles and crack open the bleeder valves until the fluid runs clear. Worked great, the hardest part was sucking the old fluid out of the master cylinder and pouring in the new.

I think flushing prevents the internal corrosion and it's highly recommended for vehicles that see road race duty or other heavy braking demands, as the old fluid has decreased boiling resistance, (as in no brakes). A number of friends enjoy the road race activities and swear it's a "life or death" maintenance thing.
 
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