Attention: TDR Forum Junkies Changed engine and transmission mounts this last weekend - I didn't find much in the other forums when I was looking so I decided to share my experience! 
The transmission mount wasn't too bad at all - typical unbolt the transmission mount bolts, slide jack under the transmission oil pan (don't forget to block it with a piece of wood at least as large as the transmission pan!), lift transmission an inch or so, pry the old, hard, dried and cracked mounts out of the way, and reinstall. A couple of 15/16" wrenches, jack, screwdrivers, pry bar covers the tool requirements.
There's a steel ferrule/bushing through the center of the rubber mounts, and the deal is to tighten the bolts until you're seating on the metal ferrule. Thin rubber bushing on top, thick one on the bottom. Even though these are lock nuts, make sure you crank the nut down tight to the ferrule. The shop manual says this should be at 150 lb-ft of torque. Don't forget the heavy metal washers on top and bottom, too.
The engine mounts were a little trickier - took about 2 1/2 hours start to end. The first thing I did was remove the air cleaner to turbo and the intercooler to manifold tubes to let me get at the motor mounts from the top side. You’ll do a lot of work from the top, but there will be times you’ll be under the truck, too.
Next I took the nuts off of the actual motor mount. Use a 3/4" wrench - you'll need an assortment of different wrenches to get to these nuts because of how they’re placed. The good news is that they’re all in plan sight and not that hard to get to. Don’t forget there’s nuts on both sides of the motor mount. You can easily get to the bottom ones from the ground, and get the top ones from the engine compartment side. The top ones are a little tricky, but definitely doable.
I was hoping that I could just put the 3-ton floor jack under the engine (again, don’t forget to put a good board between the jack and oil pan!) and get enough clearance where the motor mount will just drop out, but alas, no such luck!!
The motor mounts bolt to the engine on each side by way of a heavy square u-shaped bracket that bolts to the engine with a pair of 3/8” x 41/4” longitudinal bolts that parallel the engine block. I dropped the engine back down just enough so that there wasn’t any weight on the engine mounts. You can see all four bolts and getting to them isn’t that bad. A variety of 9/16” wrenches is what you’ll need to get the job done (Gotta love those ‘Gear’ wrenches!!).
The only major hiccup in the whole job is the upper bolt on the driver side bracket installs from front to rear. With the nut removed there’s not enough room between the motor mount bracket and the power steering pump to clear the bolt and remove it!! After looking at the arrangement, I just removed the little puppy with a Sawz-All and replaced it later!!! And yes, there’s plenty of room from the bottom to get the blade of a Sawz-All up in there!!
Another minor hiccup was that after I cut the bolt out, the high pressure hose from the PS pump was still in the way of the motor mount bracket. A 5/8” open end wrench took care of that – just remember to put a little cup under there to catch the PS fluid draining out of the pump.
You also have to disconnect the positive battery cable to get it out of the way of the motor mount bracket, and because the heavy starter cable is held by a metal wire loom that uses the upper motor mount bracket bolt to fasten it. (Don’t forget to disconnect the negative cable first!)
At first glance the passenger side upper motor mount bracket bolt appears to have the same problem that we encountered on the driver side. But for some reason this bolt enters from back to front (good), and there’s a clearance hole in the offending bracket to the rear side of the motor mount bracket that lets the bolt slide nicely in and out.
With the motor mount bracket bolts removed it was pretty easy to jockey the parts around and get the bracket and old motor mount out. The motor was jacked up ‘til the fan was touching the top of the fan shroud, and I had to use a 26” flat pry bar jostle things around to both get the old parts out and new parts in.
With the new parts in, I replaced the motor mount brackets and put the bolts and nuts in finger tight. I replaced the cut bolt with a Grade 8 replacement. Also, don’t forget to put the starter cable wire loom on the upper motor mount bracket bolt back on - I did and had to back track a step or two! I let the motor down where there was just a little pressure on the new motor mounts, and then torqued down the motor mount bracket bolts. I then let the full weight of motor down on the motor mounts and reinstalled the motor mount bolts. It came back down right where it was when I started. That’s a good thing!!
All that’s left to do is replace the PS hose, PS fluid, reconnect the battery (negative last!), reinstall the intake tubes, pick up the tools, and you’re done!!
Hopefully this helps someone out down the line!!!!
Oo. Oo.
PS: I posted a question earlier this year on this topic - thanks again to the folks that offered their experience on that post!
The transmission mount wasn't too bad at all - typical unbolt the transmission mount bolts, slide jack under the transmission oil pan (don't forget to block it with a piece of wood at least as large as the transmission pan!), lift transmission an inch or so, pry the old, hard, dried and cracked mounts out of the way, and reinstall. A couple of 15/16" wrenches, jack, screwdrivers, pry bar covers the tool requirements.
There's a steel ferrule/bushing through the center of the rubber mounts, and the deal is to tighten the bolts until you're seating on the metal ferrule. Thin rubber bushing on top, thick one on the bottom. Even though these are lock nuts, make sure you crank the nut down tight to the ferrule. The shop manual says this should be at 150 lb-ft of torque. Don't forget the heavy metal washers on top and bottom, too.
The engine mounts were a little trickier - took about 2 1/2 hours start to end. The first thing I did was remove the air cleaner to turbo and the intercooler to manifold tubes to let me get at the motor mounts from the top side. You’ll do a lot of work from the top, but there will be times you’ll be under the truck, too.
Next I took the nuts off of the actual motor mount. Use a 3/4" wrench - you'll need an assortment of different wrenches to get to these nuts because of how they’re placed. The good news is that they’re all in plan sight and not that hard to get to. Don’t forget there’s nuts on both sides of the motor mount. You can easily get to the bottom ones from the ground, and get the top ones from the engine compartment side. The top ones are a little tricky, but definitely doable.
I was hoping that I could just put the 3-ton floor jack under the engine (again, don’t forget to put a good board between the jack and oil pan!) and get enough clearance where the motor mount will just drop out, but alas, no such luck!!
The motor mounts bolt to the engine on each side by way of a heavy square u-shaped bracket that bolts to the engine with a pair of 3/8” x 41/4” longitudinal bolts that parallel the engine block. I dropped the engine back down just enough so that there wasn’t any weight on the engine mounts. You can see all four bolts and getting to them isn’t that bad. A variety of 9/16” wrenches is what you’ll need to get the job done (Gotta love those ‘Gear’ wrenches!!).
The only major hiccup in the whole job is the upper bolt on the driver side bracket installs from front to rear. With the nut removed there’s not enough room between the motor mount bracket and the power steering pump to clear the bolt and remove it!! After looking at the arrangement, I just removed the little puppy with a Sawz-All and replaced it later!!! And yes, there’s plenty of room from the bottom to get the blade of a Sawz-All up in there!!
Another minor hiccup was that after I cut the bolt out, the high pressure hose from the PS pump was still in the way of the motor mount bracket. A 5/8” open end wrench took care of that – just remember to put a little cup under there to catch the PS fluid draining out of the pump.
You also have to disconnect the positive battery cable to get it out of the way of the motor mount bracket, and because the heavy starter cable is held by a metal wire loom that uses the upper motor mount bracket bolt to fasten it. (Don’t forget to disconnect the negative cable first!)
At first glance the passenger side upper motor mount bracket bolt appears to have the same problem that we encountered on the driver side. But for some reason this bolt enters from back to front (good), and there’s a clearance hole in the offending bracket to the rear side of the motor mount bracket that lets the bolt slide nicely in and out.
With the motor mount bracket bolts removed it was pretty easy to jockey the parts around and get the bracket and old motor mount out. The motor was jacked up ‘til the fan was touching the top of the fan shroud, and I had to use a 26” flat pry bar jostle things around to both get the old parts out and new parts in.
With the new parts in, I replaced the motor mount brackets and put the bolts and nuts in finger tight. I replaced the cut bolt with a Grade 8 replacement. Also, don’t forget to put the starter cable wire loom on the upper motor mount bracket bolt back on - I did and had to back track a step or two! I let the motor down where there was just a little pressure on the new motor mounts, and then torqued down the motor mount bracket bolts. I then let the full weight of motor down on the motor mounts and reinstalled the motor mount bolts. It came back down right where it was when I started. That’s a good thing!!
All that’s left to do is replace the PS hose, PS fluid, reconnect the battery (negative last!), reinstall the intake tubes, pick up the tools, and you’re done!!
Hopefully this helps someone out down the line!!!!
Oo. Oo.
PS: I posted a question earlier this year on this topic - thanks again to the folks that offered their experience on that post!
