My Maintenance Schedule has stripped a gear...

[JR]

I agree. I wasn't sure if it ran off the TB or serpentine.

 

[NIsaacs]

Don't know about recommending. Right now it is sitting at 91k and in toyota's infinite wisdom the water pump is in back of the timing belt so it makes common sense to change it out.

That's probably a good plan because if it leaks it goes in the crank case.

Same design as my two Neon's. They recommend changing out the hydraulic belt tensioner, however, I did not nor did I change out the water pumps. I did replace the belt on both, one each. They were both fine at about 160k when I sold them.

The hardest part of the job is no room for your hands between the engine and the shock tower, my hands were bloody nubs.....good luck.

 

[DavidC]

Thanks Nick, I have watched multiple video's and each one has their own approach and wind up at the end being the same

 

[JR]

Any specialty tools required? VW is one of the biggest offenders of one off tools. For timing belt replacement alone you need a Timing sprocket holder, cam locking plate, TB tensioner spanner wrench, cam sprocket puller, IP locking pin, and crank locking pin. I think thats all.

I had a small fortune in tools alone. Used twice so far, hoping to get a third go round.

 

[DavidC]

No specialty but all metric. I have most except for the 22mm impact socket for harmonic balancer, torx E8 and 10mm allen. Found it all on amazon

 

[JR]

See. Yota not all bad

 

[DavidC]

See. Yota not all bad

Think I read somewhere today maybe 2007 and up use a chain and no belt.

 

[JR]

Chains stretch too. The Toyota 22RE was notorious for chain stretch to the point they would slap off the aluminum timing cover until it magically mixed the coolant and oil passages together.

 

[DavidC]

Yes they do and probably not an improvement over a belt as chains are usually changed at 100k also

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Neon - don't get me started. I've put so many water pumps on it, it isn't funny. No matter where I buy them, they seem to start leaking in 30K miles. I can almost change one in my sleep.....wait.... I think I did the last one in my sleep....

 

[jgillott]

Neon - don't get me started. I've put so many water pumps on it, it isn't funny. No matter where I buy them, they seem to start leaking in 30K miles. I can almost change one in my sleep.....wait.... I think I did the last one in my sleep....

My father's 4.7L Dakota is like that. The truck has 80K on it and it is on the 3rd pump.

 

[DavidC]

The Toyota timing belt was started today.A youtuber said he estimated 5 hrs. Wouldn't have even been close for me, probably more like 8 to 10 if I did not run into a couple snags. To start the pass. side motor mount has a couple of aluminum pieces mated together. Last weekend I removed some bolts that are known to break off after the steel mates with the aluminum. I removed those successfully and coated with copper anti seize. Those brackets are $300.00. The top bracket mates to the bottom on a dowel pin which was mating to the top so it took some finesse to break them apart. Hey Toyota "Have you heard of anti seize". The rest getting the power steering and serpentine went as well as it could I guess (PIA). By this time it's time to remove the damper, 22mm and 1/2" impact. The bolt would not loosen with 150psi and I tried several times. Grabbed the butane torch heating up the bolt, still a no go. Can you say SOL. Now what do I do, I do not know of a way to lock this motor up and break out the 3/4 tools and try brute force. I remember a post during the research of this job where someone broke theirs loose using the starter. I was trying to avoid this at all costs until the idea bank went broke. Rigged up the impact socket and 1/2" breaker bar against the frame and went for it twice. That worked and the bolt removed and of course the damper required a puller. Moving right along and I have 4 hrs into this and I was moving all the time. Probably wasted 30 mins. on that bracket and 1 hr. on the damper. Lined up all the timing marks, removed the spring tensioner and removed the belt. This thing has 91845 miles on it and the belt looked like it could go another 50k. So now I am down to the water pump which has 2 long studs thru it with male torx ends. I put the torx socket on the studs and proceeded to break both of them off which I was aware could happen but surely not on an Az. vehicle. I had a metric stud socket kit in my Amazon wish list but did not order it as I wasn't going to need that . It will be here Sunday . You cannot remove the water pump with those studs as it lacks about 1/2" to remove and reinstall so I am at a standstill until those studs come out. I believe those studs come from the block thru the pump and wind up at the motor mount bottom bracket. What a fun day

 

[TFucili]

Murphy-san, and his law...

 

[Wayne M.]

V engine timing belts are the pits. Dave, is it a twin cam? Do you need a way to “lock” the cams so they don’t spin on you? Probably the worst example of aluminum vs. steel I’ve ever seen is the 2 and 3 gen Prius knuckle/ hub bearing. Most times itll need all new stuff, bolts and all. The whole unit becomes one piece of scrap.

 

[DavidC]

It is seperate cams at each head on the V6. Do not need to lock the cams like I did with the daughters escort zx2 double overhead. It is not just the steel and aluminum the bottom pad of the motor mount had a cast in dowel that was mating to the upper part which has the receiving end of that dowel. I finally wiggled it enough to get enough clearance to get a small pry bar between them and pry them apart. You definately do not want this belt to break. Besides the possible carnage of possibly bending valves etc. it is at least an 8 hr. job just to get to the rear valve cover. The cowl panel, supporting sheet metal pan, wipers,wiper motor,air box,throttle body, intake plenum and manifold need to come off to see the rear valve cover. And you have to do all of this to change the 3 rear spark plugs. It's an engineering marvel . Sure miss most of the pre 72 V8's that you could actually work on when you get into this thing. I believe I read that this job is at least $ 1k dollars at a shop, I spent about $300.00 on tools and parts.

 

[DavidC]

Received the stud remover set today. Worked really slick. Toyota in their infinate wisdom has a stamped sheet metal pan behind the cam sprockets and spans across the engine for the timing belt cover to mount. The intelligent part is it partially overlaps the water pump which makes it impossible to pull the pump straight off. Some pan bolt removal and a pry bar for removal and install is required . Now the new pump is installed and replacing belt tensioner and bearing, installing the spring loaded idler adjuster and on to the belt. Apparently when breaking the damper loose with the starter was enough to move the rear cam. Of course it has to be the rear as you can barely see it and only the sprocket mark as they have some Micky Mouse, Mattel, kindergarten wiring junction box right on top of the rear cam timing mark so you cannot see it . So the belt has FR and arrows pointing to the side. Now does FR mean front of vehicle (impossible with this as the engine sits sideways) or does it mean front of engine ?. Took a guess and pointed arrows to engine, I have no idea right or wrong but I made a decision . So the belt has 2 solid lines and one dashed and the idea is the solids line up with the cam sprockets when they are in time and the dashed lines up with a mark on the crank sprocket, a different mark than the one on the block and sprocket for top dead center. The 2 cam sprockets line up perfectly but the crank is 3 cogs off. Now the belt goes from the right cam (timing marks are dead on) to the water pump then to the crank. The belt has about 1/2" of slack in the center between the cam sprocket and the water pump so there is no way that will make 3 cogs longer to line up the dashed lines. I am at a loss on that one. The only way to make them match would be to turn the crank but everything is at TDC now. The belt was removed as everything is sitting now just this dashed line does not line up like the instructions. Definately going to turn this thing over with a wrench before trying to start.

 

[TFucili]

Don't know if there is anything useful here:

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Toyota-1MZFE-Timing-Belt-Replacement-Camry-Avalon-ES300???

 

[DavidC]

Don't know if there is anything useful here:

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Toyota-1MZFE-Timing-Belt-Replacement-Camry-Avalon-ES300???

Yeah that diagram with the lines it's the dashed line that is 3 cogs high on the sprocket with no way to make that up with the top right cam on TDC. I am beginning to think the FR with the arrows means front of vehicle and the measurement between the dash and solid is different enough to make the difference.

 

[HPSimpson]

Sounds way crazy have to guess were belt should go for TDC, when engine was assembled real ease no stuff in the way.

 

[Bill Lins]

Well, sir- you have ensured that I will NEVER buy a Toyota!