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My NV5600...how much I hate it!

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I just shipped mine off to Blumenthals to have it tore down inspected, and the input shaft replaced. Welcome to Blumenthal Manufacturing

Does anybody want it after the rebuild? heh

I've never had any real problems with mine I guess. I thought the gear clash was normal for such a huge trans.

Merrick
 
I just shipped mine off to Blumenthals to have it tore down inspected, and the input shaft replaced. Welcome to Blumenthal Manufacturing



Does anybody want it after the rebuild? heh



I've never had any real problems with mine I guess. I thought the gear clash was normal for such a huge trans.



Merrick



Bit off topic, but Merrick, how much do they charge to do a teardown and inspection. Thinking of dropping my "spare" off there on my way through there next month.
 
Uhm, $550, or $750. I don't really remember. I think it was gonna be $750 w/o shipping back, but with a replaced input shaft.



Note: Don't tow heavy with a solid disk clutch... .



I don't want to put the trans back in the truck, but I dunno. If it needs major repair an Allison 1000 is going in the truck... :D



Merrick
 
for what its worth... I just hit 80K miles this evening on my NV5600 my truck is 100% stock, my NV5600 was my first stick I ever owned and operated... that being said... I thought it was very tight when new and to help me learn I regularly short shifted it 2,4,6 for the first 10k miles and it loosed up around 9K miles



The only small issue I have noticed ... is if I am in a hurry going through the gears is I have a loud drive line clunk aka slop... usually from the 2 to 3 shift if I don’t let off and re-apply fuel pedal just right. Otherwise, I do not have any problems shifting. I



I have personally changed the fluid every 25k miles; and I use Pennzoil Synchromesh as it meets OEM specs. The first time I changed it; the fluid was noticeably cloudy but not by any means dark and used up... . the other two changes @ 50 and 75K the fluid has come out looking like it had just went in... I am thinking about going to 50K change schedule now.
 
G-56 fan.

I replaced my '99 (w/$5,000 worth of DTT upgrades)with an '07 w/G-56. This transmission shifts great after one initial 2-3 upshift when cold. Shift locations are precise and work everytime. If there is a G-56 conversion,I couldn't recommend it enough in lieu of replacing your 5600. I've driven three NV5600's ,one with low miles and two, new off the lot and the G-56 is the way to go in my opinion. I concede that a SBC DMF conversion clutch will be inevitable,so I'm going to milk this one for awhile.
 
I took an NV5600 and motor out of a 2002 truck and put it in my first gen. I wasn't that thrilled with how it shifted. I finally exceeded the power limits of the OFE clutch and bought an FE. I had heard about the ball bearing pilot replacement and decided to give it a try. Night and day difference. The transmission shifted smooth as silk from that point on. I have heard several others say that the ball bearing pilot made a big difference in theirs also.



Ron
 
I don't know exactly what the 50w is, but I know your comparison is not even remotely close. The 50w is much much thicker than a 5w-30 motor oil. I'm getting a little deja vu here. I think we've had this conversation before.





Hmmm, an 80w90 gear lube is about the same as a 15w40 motor oil in viscosity IIRC...



I would say you were probably fine running a 50wt... it was probably close enough. I don't think these trans are as finicky about the weight of oil as they are about the synchronizer additives.



steved
 
I took an NV5600 and motor out of a 2002 truck and put it in my first gen. I wasn't that thrilled with how it shifted. I finally exceeded the power limits of the OFE clutch and bought an FE. I had heard about the ball bearing pilot replacement and decided to give it a try. Night and day difference. The transmission shifted smooth as silk from that point on. I have heard several others say that the ball bearing pilot made a big difference in theirs also.



Ron





Hmmmm... .



I've thought this since day one... like the trans wasn't "free" of the engine when the clutch was depressed... I've often wondered about the pilot bearing, and whether it was causing some of the problems in this trans.



Wear did you get the ballbearing pilot from, and did it require machining?



You brought up a good point...



steved
 
Hmmmm... .



I've thought this since day one... like the trans wasn't "free" of the engine when the clutch was depressed... I've often wondered about the pilot bearing, and whether it was causing some of the problems in this trans.



Wear did you get the ballbearing pilot from, and did it require machining?



You brought up a good point...



steved



x2.



I would like to know as well.



Merrick
 
Check quad4x4.com under the dodge-engine and clutch link. They have a plethora of hd pilot ball bearings





Too bad most are sold out... so they do require a little machining...



I like the fact they now carry a HD greaseable balljoint for the 3rd gens!



steved
 
Hmmm, an 80w90 gear lube is about the same as a 15w40 motor oil in viscosity IIRC...
With the 80w-90 and 15w-40 I have sitting here in the shop, you'd have to set the 15w -40 outside tonight in the -15*F for a couple hours before it would be as thick as the 80w-90. Do you have charts or something that would show this. There is absolutely no way this is possible. Not with the oil I have here.
 
... back to your trans...

The throwout bearing on mine was toast. The guy who did the swap had a hard time getting it off. It's no wonder I had a funky pedal for the last while.
 
With the 80w-90 and 15w-40 I have sitting here in the shop, you'd have to set the 15w -40 outside tonight in the -15*F for a couple hours before it would be as thick as the 80w-90. Do you have charts or something that would show this. There is absolutely no way this is possible. Not with the oil I have here.



I found one.
 
I knew I wasn't completely nuts... :-laf



Took it for a spin this AM... it acts like the trans isn't fully disconnecting from the engine... probably the pilot bearing isn't as free as it should be...



steved
 
The 5600 in my 02 shifts well, although it is still as tight as it was new. Not a bad thing w/ just over 100K miles and original clutch. At 30K miles, it was hard to shift into 1st or reverse, so I tried RP for a few weeks... shifting was hard in all gears. I put Pensoil in and is good for about 30K miles before it starts getting hard to shift into 1st and reverse again.



I have the short shift kit on mine and really like it. Overall, I like the 5600, but is a PITA to rock the truck to get unstuck w/ the location of 1st and reverse all the way across the shift pattern versus up and down it.



Seems like there is a lot of diversity in the performance and reliability of these trannys and clutches. I have original clutch in mine and it has been bombed right on the dealer's backlot as I transfered exhaust, injectors, gauges, TSTpm-3, bumpers from my '00 2500 trade-in. Most I've seen had to replace the clutch right after BOMBING. Lucky I guess.



finally, seems like there is a lot of diversity in which fluid work best in the 5600. The factory fill gives me the best results.



Cheers, Wiredawg
 
... back to your trans...



The throwout bearing on mine was toast. The guy who did the swap had a hard time getting it off. It's no wonder I had a funky pedal for the last while.



While it seems certain there ARE wider variations in shifting characteristics and lube sensitivity among various 5600's, I have also suspected - as pointed to in the above quote - that OTHER issue often expose the 5600 to conditions it wasn't designed for. NO transmission will deliver proper operation if external components are defective or poorly adjusted - pilot bearings, throwout bearings, proper clutch release and alignment - and more - must be correct for proper shifting to occur.



Think back at the unusually high instances reported on TDR where severe shifting issues cropped up AFTER a new clutch and/or other components were changed. I suspect the 5600 often gets a bum rap for conditions it is NOT responsible for.
 
I knew I wasn't completely nuts... :-laf
I must be. ;)

How does viscosity relate to pour-ability? Looking at that chart, you're right. However the 50w trans fluid is thicker coming out of the bottle than Penzoil Synchromesh. Heck, when I dumped some of the 50W in, I used the PS bottles and I cut the tops more to make it easier.

P. S. Thanks bettertahnstock.
 
The NV5600 on my 05 has been absolutely perfect. Perhaps a little harder shifting for the first 5K miles, but now I couldn't ask for a better transmission. My son has an 04. 5 3500 SRW with a Cummins and a NV5600 and his is just as good as mine. Not all NV5600 are bad!
 
I must be. ;)



How does viscosity relate to pour-ability? Looking at that chart, you're right. However the 50w trans fluid is thicker coming out of the bottle than Penzoil Synchromesh. Heck, when I dumped some of the 50W in, I used the PS bottles and I cut the tops more to make it easier.



P. S. Thanks bettertahnstock.



Your oil must be 50W engine rating. There is no 50W transmission, it would be thin like diesel.



The Synchromesh is right in the middle of the 80w transmission rating, and right about 25W engine rating.



ATF is right at the bottom of the 80W gear oil, and is at about 15 to 20w engine rating.



It appears 0w-30 engine oil (like amsoil) would do just fine in the NV5600.

A mixture of 0w-20 and 0w-30 would match the factory fill. Of course, I don't know about the additives.
 
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