Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Neatest/best way to run guage leads?

[Gary - K7GLD]

Wonder what guys have found as the best and neatest pathway to run various guage leads from the engine bay into the guages on these later trucks?

 

[FourBarR]

wiring for gauges

i am presently in the process of installing westach boost egt / dual temp. fuel pressure gauges in my truck . this is taking a long time to do because of work pressures. as an aircraft engineer with a USA A&P i cant get out of the habit of doning everything like in airplanes. i presently have the probes installed and wiring run to the fire wall. gauges are mounted in the pillar pod with wiring attached. i have made a panel of micarta on which i mounted two 8 terminal blocks. one will be for all grounds for gauge lights plus grounds for gauge power. the other block will be for 12 volts for lights and gauges. i will be tapping into fuse #5 and #8 for power using little fuse add a circuit . havent worked out method of going thru fire wall yet , think about aircraft fire shield. i mounted the fuel pressure sender on a custom alum. bracket on the steering gear just behind the master cyl. used aircraft fittings and a stainless steel fire shieled an - 4 hose between sender and fuel filter. all wiring will be run inside aircraft shilding to protect it from chafing . sorry for long post Oo. Oo.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"havent worked out method of going thru fire wall yet "



UNFORTUNATELY, *THAT* is the part that I'm most curious/concerned about...



I really HATE the thought of DRILLING thru the firewall, and with the Propane setup, and several guage lines I'll want to install, I'll need a fairly substantial opening to work with...



I *do* have the 6-speed transmission, and have noted there's a fair amount of space available thru the shifter boot area and then into the plastic console, right next to the spot I plan to install an attractive junction/switch box for various accessories - I might try that if planned wiring harness can be routed and dressed properly...

 

[Bigsaint]

I used the rubber boot for the main wiring harness that comes into the cab, when it became full, I started to use the boot for the hood release. What I normally do is to straighten out a metal coat hanger and push it through the rubber grommet from inside the cab, then I tape the end of the wire to the hanger and pull it back through. Works well for me, just stay away from the pre-existing wires with the hanger for obvious reasons. If you look under the dash, below the steering wheel, you will see both grommets.



I think the shifter is a great idea for gauges/switches you want to mount in that area.



You will be amazed at what you can get through the main grommet. I installed my TST box after having run all the wires/tube for the egt. , boost and oil pressure gauges. There was still plenty of room and the TST wiring loom is a pig. I just took a look at it from inside the cab before I posted this reply, still have plenty of room for the Hella driving lights wires that I'm doing next.



Scott W.

 

[amsoilman]

I utilize a piece of 1/4"tubing and an ice pick. I have sharpened the end of the tubing. Then I put the ice pick through the tubing and push the two into the ruber grommet. Remove the ice pick, insert the wire through the tubing, then remove the tubing. The wire is then in the rubber grommet. I do this all the time when installing gauges etc.



Wayne

amsoilman

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Couple of excellent suggestions above - thanks guys!



One particular problem *I* face, is that especially with the Power Shot propane setup wires, there is a pretty sibstantial cluster of wires, and THEN the attached connectors and protective sheath - makes a REAL difficult bundle to pass thru most available openings... Single, smaller individual wires are somewhat easier!

 

[Shovelhead]

I have, when needed, drawn a wiring diagram of the plugs,

then removed the wires from the plugs, taped up the wires into a smaller bundle, pushed them through the grommet, then re-intalled the wires into the plugs.



Time consuming, yes, but uses a smaller hole than you would have to cut to push the whole plug through.

 

[illflem]

I ran out room since I've been running a lot of wires though the firewall for different experiments. Finally just pulled the whole mess out and replaced it with one 12 conductor cable terminating at a screw type terminal block at each end. Cable is about 1/2" in dia. Just wish I would have started out this way so I didn't have to rip the old wiring out. I went though the rubber plug that the clutch linkage would have gone though if I didn't have an auto by just slitting the rubber and pushing the cable though.

 

[merryman]

I was able to "push" a piece of 3/8 clear plastic tubing through the main wiring gromet. I then ran wires through that till it was full, then pushed through another piece of 3/8 tubing---now its full. Gotta quit adding wires!



Vaughn

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

HI Vaughn - good to hear from you again!



Yeah - the OLDER trucks had a decent and relatively easy access wiring port for these installations - but the NEWER ones DON'T!



But I see YOU now have one of the newer ones yourself - hopefully you don't have as much stuff to add as *I* do!



One fella above mentioned a pair of ports "below the steering column" - dunno what year/type Dodge HE has - but MINE certainly doesn't have those access points!



BUT, I'll eventually gather enough info and do enough inspecting to get all my junk transferred to the new rig... .



By the way - we're again in the planning stages of an RV trip up your way - who knows, we may YET get together! I check one of the Oregon DOT web cams installed at the south end of Port Orford almost every day - with the better that 100 degrees WE had today, your coast sure looks inviting!