Need An Impact Wrench

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red1ton
The Husky Impact sockets are fine. Crafsman too. I doubt you will ever break one. Buy them locally. If you do break it just return it for a new one.

In fact I think I have the classic $12 Chinese 1/2" drive Impact socket set #ad
. They are 5 years old and none have broken. I'm like you, I don't use them often.

R. E. Miller
The CP-749 is a strong Wrench. Very well made. I love mine too!



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-06-2001). ]
 
red1ton,do use the black nonplated type sockets though,the plating will chip off in an impact wrench and can dangerous. Also the plated ones can get hammered on the impact wrench and can be very difficult to remove. Get deep sockets they are more versatile.

ALWAYS use safety glasses with an impact,things can fly. I had a bolt break a couple years back and the impact winged the nut into my front tooth and took a big chunk out,I had safety glasses on but obviously they didn't help,I'm sure it would have taken my eye out if it hit one unprotected.
 
Glad I don't have any equipment that requires a 200 lb open end wrench and 10 inch sockets. I think that would make my toolbox pretty heavy. The one I carry around in my truck with ONLY the tools needed to make basic repairs on my truck and equipment already weighs 75 lbs.
 
I like my IR 2131. Good power, decent price, not too big, and fairly light. Sears sells a rebadged version for about $10 less (so I've heard, buddy's got one), the only difference is the nose is chrome and it says Craftsman.

Been thinking about getting a 3/8 version too.

Pete

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'97 2500 CC 4X4 5spd Sport
'83 K5 Blazer 350 TBI (ex 6. 2), 39. 5 TSLs, 3" lift, Dana 60/GM 14 blt, Detroits
 
I agree with illfem too. Safety glasses are a good idea. I went into the Dodge dealer to get a part last summer. There was a young tech turning a rotor on the brake lathe. There were chips flying everywhere. He had no saftey glasses on and was not using the machine chip guards. I couldn't belive it! I felt like walking over and yelling at him.

My old boss from a few years ago, he was about 60 , used to put safety goggles on when he had to cut wood with a circular saw. I asked him why he used them. I never had seen anyone use safety glasses with a circular saw. He said years ago he got a wood splinter in his eye. He said he learned his lesson.

I'm guilty and probably others here of sometimes using a regular (non-impact) socket on my impact wrench. Don't have that odd Metric impact socket ect. I always turn my face away and work quick.

Having something in your eye has got to be the WORST FEELING I KNOW OF.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-07-2001). ]
 
Originally posted by red1ton:

The other thing is the sockets and extensions? What should I look for? I saw some Husky brand deep sockets at Home Depot for $49 for 11 socket set. They have a "lifetime guarentee. " Does anyone know about them? I see the black sockets are for impact wrench applications. I don't need professional quality tools as I will only use them from time to time.


I have some Husky impact sockets. I don't use them all that much but have not had any problems with them.

I know this is more than your budget but this site has a nice IR impact hammer.
http://www.toolsource.com/ost//product. asp?pf_id=79053&dept%5Fid=500&mscssid=NM1CTUBT2AS92PE300J74979AD2NAHK0&brand_id=&sourceid=
 
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Statland, just a follow up to last nights post. IR makes a model 599A1. It is 3 1/2" drive, turns 295 RPM, and has a reccommended torque range of 26,000 to 42,000 ft. lbs. with a max torque of 80,000 ft. lbs. It has a 1 1/2" inlet port and consumes 375 CFM of air at 90 psi. For a little perspective, I sell compressors and a 375 CFM portable compressor is powered by a 120 BHP diesel while a stationary 375 CFM compressor is powered by a 75 BHP electric motor.

Be very carefull with impacts. For safety sake, use impact rated sockets, estensions, etc. Also, not all black sockets are designed or rated to be used with impacts. Gene

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'96' 3500, 5-speed, 3. 54 LSD, Ext. Cab, 180,000 plus miles, relay controlled back-up alarm and rear facing halogen tractor flood lights, K&N air filter, TST #11 plate . 010" forward of stock, AFC spring kit, lost cat, SPA digital EGT and boost gauge,20 yr. old marine air horns, bed liner, 5" monster exhaust tip, Geno's manual trans. filter, brite box.
 
Gene, You got that right on safety, I've seen the penthouse access door blow off a 40' tall boiler... the guys call me Scatland cause I'm gone long before the pieces land! They (safety commitee) at work yapped about "meeting in a predetermined place should there be an incident". BULL$HIT. We were pulling the upper case off a GE 300 mw turbine (56 tons) the crane operater was an old-timer with bad eyes #ad
he failed to see the signal to stop... 2" steel choker snapped... Mikey, gone before the hook came back down.

On eyes, I never wore goggles under a car until after one Sunday night wrapping up a clutch job, got some stuff in my eye, felt it wasn't bad, did the wipe with the upper arm thing, figured the shower would get it out. Finished the job took a shower, two hours later my vision had an increasing black spot... 2:00 am emergency room, metal sliver in PUPIL... lucky they took care of it. NO MORE UNDER THE CAR WORK W/O GOGGLES!

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9535hundred
 
I tried to find a picture of the IR 599A1. I couldn't. Found a product listing @ Kipper Tool though:

599A1 Wrench, Impact, Pneumatic, 3-1/2"SQ DR, 80,000ft/lb Max Torque, 295 RPM $29,024. 45

Holly Moses!



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-07-2001). ]
 
I'm not sure how ft/lbs relate in between an engine an wrench,but does that mean the 3½"impact is stronger than a Cummins!!?
 
Bill, foot pounds is foot pounds, impact is the secret... kind of like when you slam something with a hammer to tighten/loosen it as opposed to pulling on a wrench unsucessfully. Hydralics is psi x area (piston) x length to center of driven piece. That would give you foot pounds.

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9535hundred
 
Interesting thread. Had to remove a tire from my new 2500 and my 25 yr old BD 1/2" laughed at me. Got out a 4' breaker bar and did it (ugh) manually!. . SO off to the store and I bought a IR 2131. Honey of a tool.



Question. In line oiler should be present for any pneumatic tool. You finish using the impact wrence to mount the tire and then inflate the tires with the same hose containing oil. Assume oil gets into tire. Probably not much but how much ill effect is there on a tire? What are your thoughts?
 
Inline oilers near the compressor are great if you're only using impact or spinning type tools but if you're using the air for blowing things clean or painting the oil is a bummer. You're better off with an oiler that connects right to the tool like these or just dripping in oil by hand. Don't know about the tire question except that my local Les Schwab tire dealer uses oilers right at each tool.
 
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BACK TO THE TOP........

Good thread!



I'm in the market for an air compressor and airtools. I see that HUSKY has air compressors with accessories at Home Depot, Craftsman has the air compressors (by themselves), and a local auto store has Coleman Powermate aircompressors along with a tool kit.



I like the idea of getting a"kit" so to speak... ... . but what and where? I'll be using the IR to change out my own wheels/tires, and for various other jobs on the Ram. Using the compressor for airing up tires, blowing things out, etc. Nothing massively heavy duty, just the odd jobs that come up.



Please, any and all suggestions welcome!



TIA,



Rogue
 
IMHO. . buy the largest compressor you budget can afford... even wait to buy the impact hammers for a while and get a bigger compressor... you'll never regret it



Always finish the tool use with a "flood Flush" of Air Tool oil v/s Marvel Oil. . it will remove the water condensation inside and add YEARS of life to your $$ tools. and if it's being used all day long do it again at noon time. [flood flush is a very good squirt in the tool air inlet and pull the trigger in a waist can/or rag to catch the flinging oil at the exhust. ]



always use impact sockets on impact tools. . the steel is mild v/s hard [that's why they are thicker to control stretch] . . they will flex more... a hard /chrome socket or extension can break [although not often happens] when cold and shatter with steel going everywhere like eyes. also the tool will not be dammaged on the hammer/anvil do to the socket being harder then the air tool... FYI the anvil is the most expensive part of the tool . . usually half or more of the tool cost.



buy a better air tool and you will not have to buy twice... the kit stuff is not very good quality and will disapoint you in the end.



make sure you install the compressor correctly with correct fittings. . [several good threads recent past on the subject].



just some thoughts from my past [I sold Snap On for several years a long time ago] not trying to sound like the know it all. . just some expierence here.
 
Gary is right on about only using impact sockets. Expect to pay almost as much for a good set of metric and SAE sockets as you do for the wrench.



When buying a compressor keep it in mind if you think you might be moving the compressor to different locations, 220 volts isn't always available.
 
Good sound advice. What brands would be good, and any ideas of good sources? The three I mentioned are all obviously the cheaper ones... ... ..... not sure where to even look for the Ingersoll Rand stuff, etc... ... ... ????



Rogue
 
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