Need some ideas before I call a Ford dealer

[Jeff Clark]

I through messing with this truck. I have exhausted every pssible way to purge the lines and, after 4 days of trying, the truck still will not start. There isn't anyone in the area except a dealer to work on it, and they are a long tow truck ride away at that. I can't keep cranking because the batteries are almost dead. It has to be the VP44 since the lift pump still runs after I shut off the key and fuel will come out of the bleeder screw.

Anyone with any ideas?

 

[arlan]

Jeff,

Sorry you are having trouble with your truck. I know I asked once before but have you bled the system at the injectors yet. If not loosen the lines at #3,4 and 5 and crank until engines starts and runs smooth before tightening. The manual states that the fuel pump is not self priming and this must be done it air has gotten into the system.

Good Luck,
Arlan

 

[Jeff Clark]

Arlan, I tried that. Still no go.

 

[Bad340fish]

If its a warranty deal then the tow should be covered shouldn't it??? Just my . 02

 

[Runaway]

When did ford become authorized repair agents for Dodge/Cummins? #ad
Couldn't resist, but I remember last fall a fellow member and HVAC was doing some bombing and some electronic part ended up frying from using test light or something like that. Is power getting to the pump itself??? did you end up taking any voltage readings, etc...

 

[HVAC]

Jeff, I know how you feel when the trucks down #ad
Sucks bigtime.

Have you checked the relay for the fuel system in the relay box. The VP44 won't fire without that. Then #10 or #9 fuse needs to be checked. If you have done everything else, you very well may have a scorched injector pump. Blue Chip has a device that will tell you if the signal from the electronics is normal, after which one would have to diagnose the problem as a VP44 ailment.

 

[HVAC]

Where is the bleeder screw you referred to?

 

[MikeR]

I kept up on your other thread,and I believe you have a dead injector pump.

-Mike

 

[Jeff Clark]

Bad340Fish: Warranty is up. The truck has over 100,000 and they wouldn't warranty it anyway with all the stuff I've done.

Runaway: I was refering to the fact that if I had to dump this truck, I would buy a Ford. I want four doors and I can't wait another year for Dodge to build one. The lift pump is getting power. It runs all day long.

HVAC: I have checked the fuses you mentioned. They all look good. I pulled the relay for the fuel system and stuck the one in from my dad's truck. Still no go. The bleeder screw (or at least what I assumed to be one) are the two screws that are on top of the filter housing. If I loosen one and turn the motor over, fuel comes out.

Anyone know how hard it is to change a VP44? Is this something I can do on my own?

 

[arlan]

Jeff,

Those bleeder screws you are referring to are the test ports for a fuel pressure test. The rear one is before the filter test and the front is after the filter. That is where I got air in my system. If you tried to bleed there after any other bleeding procedure you may have undone any bleeding procedures you just did. I still think you have air in you fuel system and just haven't removed it. I ran my batteries down and had to recharge all night before I finally got mine to fire. I suggest you get your batteries up to full charge and not touch the test port fittings again. Bleed until fuel comes out of the supply line that comes from the fuel filter to the VP44, stop then tighten that fitting. Then loosen the #3,4 and 5 lines at the injectors and crank for about 15 second intervals waiting a minute or so between cranking. When it starts let if run until it smoothes out then tighten the fittings. I really think she will start, since this all began when you were attempting to test fuel pressure it has to be air entering the system at the test ports (bleeder screws).

Arlan

[This message has been edited by arlan (edited 04-03-2001). ]

 

[B. Gill]

jeff hang in there, you have a better engine than the fords they have their share of the problems. as arlan has said do the above and then also there is a port on the VP44 for pressure testing, see if you have fuel pressure there, it has a screw on cover on it, you wont miss it, give that a shot,if you get fuel pressure there then loosen on of the injector lines and see if fuel squirtes out.
hope that it works
bob

 

[Great White]

I've had diesels get air in the lines and be a ***** to bleed. Once I called out the guy from Cat and he had it running in less time than I spent looking up his number. Spent $100. 00 and well worth it. Don't give up.
Rich

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2001. 5 2500 ETH/DEE 4x4,Patriot Blue over Silver,Camper pkg, Trailerpkg,3. 54LSD, Agate Leather,Stainless Smitty Bars,Tow hooks,Amsoil... ... ... Except snowplow!

 

[HVAC]

I wish I had the time to burn to come down there and help you get that beast running. As I recall from May Madness you have a truck worth fretting over (a nice truck).

Are you affiliated with the HOT group? Heart Of Texas? Those guys down there have to come together to help you pal. I'll email TXRam to see if he has any ideas. Basically I would suggest you have it towed to Cummins and get it dianosed.

 

[HVAC]

I sent a message to TXRam and I'll await his response. Surely 243 or some of the boys can bust a knuckle and get you back on line. My money says there are some locals that can help you. Arlan has given you some good advice, but unfortunatly it sounds like a injector pump problem. Yeah, that's a bummer. I'd eat one of those VP44's rather then drive another brand #ad

---------------------------------------------
Nowel/Performance Diesel

 

[Papa Joe]

Hang in there. The lousiest Dodge is better than the best Ford. I'm serious.
If your injector pump is toast, replace it and continue to motor along. Your truck has many thousands left on it #ad
#ad
Joe

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White 2001 QuadCab 2500 Laramie SLT, HO 6-speed, 3. 54 limited slip, Mopar exhaust brake, towing/camper options, Rhino liner, Grover Air Horns (not yet installed), Un BOMBed (so far), DUAL AIR BAGS !!

 

[Mopar-muscle]

jeff if you have to replace the pump you can do it yourself , not that hard , takes about 3 hours , i'll assume you have a manual . it only really goes together one way the timing is all electronic .

i also think you still have air in the system .

 

[Jeff Clark]

I really appreciate all the help guys. I probably wouldn't buy a Ford, but I like 4 doors and Chevy is out of thee question.

The guys in Houston are a little out of the way. I'm 30 miles north of Dallas. I've got a few more things to try when I get over this cold. The truck has always been hard to start because of the large fuel line, just never this hard. I have a charger on the batteries bringing them back up and I'll give it another shot.

 

[RobbyRam]

Jeff,
One of our new Construction Superintendents has a Y201'-'4 Door DuraMax Diesel but, HIS Supervisor has a Beautiful Red '99 F250 Ford PSD, QCab, Lifted, Dual Exhaust, Dual Rancho 5000's, Smitty Built Grill + steps, etc, however, no engine mods yet, and I, have my (See Signature) B. O. M. B. 'd Ram. It's kind'a funny that none of us talks about truck our mods or the other trucks at all , although, we are together several times a week?
Shy, I guess #ad



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Y2K Awesome Black LB 3500 QC SLT, 24Valve ETC ISB, 4x4, 4:10 LSD, DTT Custom prepared Auto transmission VB, Power Edge 'EZ', DD2's, K&N, Polished Stull Billet Grill/Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges, Rancho 9000's, Diamond Plated Tool Box, + a bunch of other stuff. Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!

 

[Hale on wheels]

Jeff, if I can help you out in any way, I will. You know more about these engines than I do, so I won't be much good at diagnosing anything, but if you need a tow somewhere or something, let me know and I will do my best to help out.

Cody