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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need to wake up the 160HP pump?

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A search really does not spell it out for me. Explain the order at which I need to upgrade to get more power. Being I have an auto, what kind of HP should I go with, without ruining the stock transmission?



Do I need different injectors before changing the fuel plate? Does anything on the turbo need to be changed or adjusted?
 
Add gauges first. Then more fuel.

A #10 plate is a good choice. Just install it in the stock position. No need to change the injectors for a plate swap. Make sure to use the supplied adjustable boost fitting and adjust it as needed to keep the boost at around 30-35 on a stock charger.
 
If you can find a set of injectors for the '96-'98 5-speed (the 215 injectors) they'll make a nice little power upgrade, and make fueling plates more effective.



If you want a cheap improvement for the auto see if anyone has a pan from a '98 & newer auto. . . they have more sump capacity.
 
I've got a 95' and you won't get much past adding the fuel plate and turning it up before the transmission will start to go. If I were you I'd find a better TQ converter and a better valve body. Then base your upgrades around what your transmission can take. Without a little stronger you won't get very high on the HP.



Bryce
 
Gauges, gauges, gauges. This is the first performance upgrade for Bombing!!! Second, my '95 had these modifications added in the below order.

- MBRP 4" stainless exhaust. Noticed that the turbo spooled quicker and the EGT's run cooler. :) No significant performance gain but it sure sounds nice. ;)

- Injectors. I added 215 HP injectors from BD performance, this was a good thing to do because I had one bad injector (300K miles on truck) however I didn't see much performance gain but a little gain in fuel economy. :confused: The fuel gain most likely come from replacing the bad injector. :confused:

- #10 fuel plate. This modification was what gained me the biggest increase in performance. However I lost the gain in fuel economy. :)

I still have a stock transmission but with an upgraded torque converter. Yes, I do worry about the transmission but it seems to be strong and I'm not known for beating the hell out of my truck so I'm not going to do anything with the transmission until it tells me to.
 
So to summerize, I need to get a set of guages, a #10 fuel plate, and a set of 215 injectors. Where can I get a cheap set of 215's? I see the prices are all over the place on the internet. Do you think the timing will have to be adjusted?



Also can I skip the exhaust? The PO I bought it from just put a new factory equivilent exhaust on it a year ago. I think it is a low grade stainless as it has that funny brown rust common to factory grade stainless. I would hate to waste the money on another one. If I need to I will but it looks adequate.
 
So to summerize, I need to get a set of guages, a #10 fuel plate, and a set of 215 injectors. Where can I get a cheap set of 215's? I see the prices are all over the place on the internet. Do you think the timing will have to be adjusted?



Also can I skip the exhaust? The PO I bought it from just put a new factory equivilent exhaust on it a year ago. I think it is a low grade stainless as it has that funny brown rust common to factory grade stainless. I would hate to waste the money on another one. If I need to I will but it looks adequate.



Interesting. Most everyone said the same thing about their automatics: Give them a new torque converter and new valve body. When I called TST they said the 10 plate would not really domuch without the governor spring kit. They highly recommended the 5 plate to me. More power at lower end and mid-range. 90hp increase and no need for the gov. spring kit. Check their site out and call them. It might save your transmission.
 
I have a set of 215's I'd sell. Where about's are you from. I plan on going to Billings, MT on Monday.



CR Toney
 
I have a set of 215's I'd sell. Where about's are you from. I plan on going to Billings, MT on Monday.



CR Toney





Erie, PA. I don;t know if this forum allows pricing discussions, but you can email me at fordiesel69 at aol dot com for price and shipping arrangments. Or send me a PM. Either way will work.
 
When I called TST they said the 10 plate would not really domuch without the governor spring kit.



I still have the stock gov. springs in mine. Granted, I have a 180 pump, but a 10 plate slid full forward will help quite a bit. AFC housing full forward, and the AFC starwheel is turned as far forward as possible. :D
 
I still have the stock gov. springs in mine. Granted, I have a 180 pump, but a 10 plate slid full forward will help quite a bit. AFC housing full forward, and the AFC starwheel is turned as far forward as possible. :D



I see you have a Goernends transmission. I have built up my auto with 3 disc convereter and BD valve body. The TST techncal info does not reccommend the 10 plate with STOCK transmission because of it's inherent weakness. I was suggesting that he should take this into consideration, to save transmission problems.
 
The TST #6 is great till the auto trans goes. Mine went at 60K with the #6.



Get the trans done soon before you go with more than a plate, I suggest the #10 plate from TST which comes with the boost elbow, 3K GSK, 215 injectors, S300 turbo and maybe 181 DV's. Thats a good place to start.



;)
 
I see you have a Goernends transmission. I have built up my auto with 3 disc convereter and BD valve body.



Yep. Ran a 10 plate (stock position) and a set of 370 injectors through my stock trans. Plate was fine. Trans couldn't handle the injectors.



The TST techncal info does not reccommend the 10 plate with STOCK transmission because of it's inherent weakness. I was suggesting that he should take this into consideration, to save transmission problems.



I had his trans factored into the equation. A 10 plate is rated at 200hp and 550tq. in the stock position on a '95. Only a 160hp pump. It'll be fine, assuming the trans isn't already ready to let go. The 10 plate is rated at 220 and 570 in my 180 pump. If worried about it, the plate can be slid back from stock, if it isn't already there. That will cut back the fuel.
 
TST has said that a #6 will be fine for the auto, and an upgrade is not needed. My guess is if it is kept at the stock position, and you are easy on the truck. It this the real life situation? I have the #6 plate, but have not installed it yet, as I don't really know the answer to this.
 
TST has said that a #6 will be fine for the auto, and an upgrade is not needed. My guess is if it is kept at the stock position, and you are easy on the truck. It this the real life situation? I have the #6 plate, but have not installed it yet, as I don't really know the answer to this.



When I called TST I todl them I wanted to get more power for plowing snow and pulling 10-15000# loads. I planned to build up my auto with BD valve body and TC, which I did. They said the only way the 10 plate would work is with a gov. spring kit, and that the 6 plate would be more than enough for what I want. Maybe if you're not plowing snow or pulling trailers and have a light foot, you will be okay, but I didn't want to take any chances.
 
I would do gauges first, then transmission. Then maybe intake. When it comes to fuel and turbo, though, experience has taught me it's better to decide how much power you want, and set it up once. Save your sheckles, buy the pieces one by one, put them in the closet, and when you have all the pieces to the puzzle, spend a weekend and set it up. 300-350 horsepower, set up correctly, is a bunch of fun for just knocking around and won't hurt the truck.
 
Is there a link that will describe the plates. Why would a #10 need a GSK but not for a #5. It seem the 5 would add more power than a 10.



Also I would like more of my power to be lower and mid range not at WOT.
 
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