Need wiring for rear ABS

[JDKammin]

I have this 92 I am selling, but need to get the rear brakes working. I am looking for the wiring harness that goes from the speed sensor in the differential to the 2 prong connector on the left frame ahead of the ABS valve. If anyone has removed their ABS from the truck and has this harness, please let me know. Thanks.

 

[dpuckett]

Not to be a smartss, but if you want to get the rear brakes working, dont you want the ABS unhooked?



I plan to bypass the ABS on my pickup soon- I'm tired of erratic pedal height- but I think the connector has worn down from the PO letting it drag on the ground.



Daniel

 

[Moab4x4]

I assume that you need this to get the ABS and brake lights to go off, or do you really need the ABS to be working to sell the truck?

Pull the plug on the ABS controller behind the glove box and the Antilock light should go off.

If you really need to fix the ABS (or install the cable so it looks like it still has ABS ) for regulatory reasons, PM me, I just took mine off I think I can still find it .

 

[JDKammin]

The guy that is buying the truck will pull a trailer. I bought the truck with a broken flexplate. I fixed that, fixed some other things and installed a rebuilt injection pump. I removed the vacuum/hydraulic trailer brake controller that was in the truck. The diaphragm in the vacuum controller must have been bad, as the master cylinder was empty in the chamber that controls the rear brakes. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the master cylinder and tried bleeding the brakes. The pedal feels a lot better, but could not get fluid out of the left rear brake like I should. On the test drive on the gravel, the right rear brake will lock up and wants to send the truck in a tailspin. I removed the ABS valve at the rear of the left framerail, cleaned and reinstalled. I did not see anything wrong. I dont know if I have a bad brake line or cylinder going to the left side. I was thinking if I get both sides working if both tires will lock up when braking. Maybe that is an adjustment problem with the shoes on the right side. The speed sensor wires are cut off and the bulbs were removed from the dash. I dont want to spend a bunch of money on this, but if I dont fix it now, I will have to fix it later. Now that you know the rest of the story, let me know the thing to do. I have read up on this ABS issue by doing a search. I am guessing the thing to do is remove the ABS valve, hook the brake lines together and unhook the ABS connector at the controller behind the passenger kick panel. Thanks for your help.

 

[Philip]

If you can lock the right side and not the left. The ABS isn't the problem. It controls both rear brakes off of one brake line.



You have a problem in the left drum. It could be adjustment/auto adjuster bad or a wheel cylinder rusted up.

 

[Moab4x4]

If the speed sensor wires are cut off and bulbs removed from dash then the ABS has obviously had some issues and probably wasn't working when the wire was cut off. I have heard reports (and after looking inside the ABS hydraulic unit itself I believe them) that when the ABS solenoid is mechanically in the system, but the electrical is not working (even not hooked up), then you may get random loss of braking.



I recommend doing what you said, get the two hydraulic fittings and remove the ABS solenoid. You can disconnect the ABS unit behind the glove box to get rid of the light. (just pull the back of the glovebox down below the catch and open it too far)



I had a Dana 60 rear axle in another truck lock the right rear on me when I put on the brakes. It was a leaking wheel cylinder. The brake fluid on the shoes made it grab. Check adjustment first like Philip says.

 

[dpuckett]

Also, if you arent getting brake fluid out like you should, check for rusted bleeder screws. If the bleeder needs replaced, replace the whole cylinder. They are less than $20, and you have already demonstrated some expertise in opening and bleeding the system. It'll also give you an opportunity to check out the rest of the rear brake system.



-DP

 

[JDKammin]

I have replaced the rear brakes on my 94, so the 92 should not be much of a problem. I was hoping to get this finished up and paid, but I want the brakes done right. I removed the bleeder screw and ran a drill bit in it to make sure it was not plugged. I should take the line off of the wheel cylinder and see if I can get fluid out of the line. Both axles only have about 3000 miles on rebuilds. I see the front brake pads are new and would hope the rears were replaced at the same time.

 

[1stgen4evr]

"a leaking wheel cylinder. The brake fluid on the shoes made it grab. "



I have experienced this many times over the years.



Don't know about the 94 but it may have rear brakes that can be serviced without removing the hub. You WILL have to remove the hub and drum on the first gen trucks to service the brakes. I doubt that you will solve the problem with adjustment but that is the easiest first step.



James