2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission New brakes question

[Mtngoat]

Well, gonna change out the front pads tomorrow. Anything unusual I need to know?? I've changed them on bunches of other vehicles, so I hope this is pretty much the same, unless something special is needed I hadn't used before. Thanks!



Robin

 

[wes reeves]

It's about the same as every other vehicle. You'll need a Torx bit to get the calipers off.

 

[Ramtough]

I put ceramic pads on my truck & I regret it - going back to carbon metallac before I cook the rotors as I did in my passenger car. Once the caliper bolts are out, you need to slide the caliper up on one side and down on the other to get it off the mounting bracket. Other than that, no big deal.

 

[Bob Wagner]

torx 25 worked for me but never lost the brake noise

 

[AHughes]

I just put Sam Petersens carbomet pads on my truck and love them. No more warped rotors with the hard metallic pads and stops straight every time The set for both front wheels was less than $50 delivered. The number on the pad set was #BRACMD459 Their phone is (360) 357-4958 I'll be ordering them again but I can't say how long they will last as I only have about 5K miles on them. I've had 4 sets of rotors and the same amount of pads from Les Schwab in 80K miles and don't want any more pulling left and right and warped rotors.

 

[RWhites]

Old member back to TDR after couple of years absent.

Question for the "Brake Guru's" Sam Peterson perhaps?

OK, so the truck prematurely wore down the front left inboard pad. (into the steel :{ ) So I get two new rotors and the premuim raybestos pads do the whole job, lube the pins clean everything and still eating the pad What next? 10% remaining pad now.

Rich

 

[RWatson]

I have read the many threads regarding the front brakes and recommended rotors and have found this topic to be almost as subjective as transmissions. I am on my third set of pads in 90K and have had to replace the left rotor once (pad seperated) :{ . I just looked at the brakes this past weekend and the pad on the right side is not bad, but the left side looks like it will not make it another 50 miles and the rotor has heat cracks. I try not to use sudden stopping paterns and only tow a 10K 5thr.



The OEM pads went at 28K (left pad shattered) and distroyed rotor. I have tried lifetime pads from Autozone (got 30K on these) and Napa (currently 33K on these). I have lubed the pins, and all assosciated hardware and yet for some reason the left pad just goes.



I am looking to replace the rotors and pads again and have been looking at the the EBC grooved rotors. Has anyone ran these for any period of time and if so what has been your impressions? I have looked at EGC, but am not sure, based on what I have seen or read, that makes these worth the extra $$.



Suggestons and your experiences welcome

 

[Joe Mc]

I'm not sure but it sounds like we are missing a critical issue, at least from what I've learned here over the past two years about the front brakes on my 99. I had the dreaded "pulls to the right" situation. I initially replaced the worn out pads to have the same thing reoccur 5 - 10 k later. The final fix for me was to purchase some Wagner loaded calipers (remanufactured w/pads) $50 each. That's a $100 very cheap fix and by the way they're "life timers" not the pads the calipers, so if it starts to pull just go back and say "pulls to the L or R" and you get a new one go back the next day and say "now it pulls the other way" and you get the other. Buy the way when you return them you get new pads with the calipers. So I'm sure we can all see how "really cheap" this fix is - just costs your labor and how ever many beers - usually a 3 - 4 beer job, depends on how hot it is/how thirsty you are . The critical thing I was missing (and learned from our brethren the great brake Guru Sam Peterson) was to file or die grind the bumps, etc, on the slide areas of the calipers (yes even the remaned Wagner's I spoke of had them) and the caliper mounting surfaces lube the slides and bolts with Sli-Glid (found at NAPA), or similar disk brake part lube. I'm not sure what the cost for remans is for the folks with the rear caliper brakes. Another key that has kept me in stopping glory is: every "other" oil change I pull the wheels and use Sli-Glide to re-lube the caliper bolts and mounting surfaces. I change my oil every 3k, so I spoil my "non-working" truck - I know this isn't practical for those folks who work their rigs, however, if you can do what I'm suggesting every 10k you'll probably yield similar results. Once again I am not claiming to have the last answer to the brake woes with out trucks, just communicating what I've learned her, from Sam P. and what has worked for me.



RWatson - sorry to hear about your rotors. Realizing I only have two to contend with (front only) I wanted to mention that I bought my truck w/75k and it presently has 135 on it the rotors are the same one's as when purchased. I "think" the right rotor was replaced due to a right front hit as it appeared "almost" new in comparison to the left upon my initial inspection. Good Luck hope this helps somone.