Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New engine no start

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Filters

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) I got the steering blues!

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With my original engine having 270k miles on it and getting a coolant in oil analysis from Blackstone I decided to swap in a low mileage used engine (junkyard,crashed truck).



The "new" engine received a new timing gear housing, PDR cam, seals/gaskets/filters/hoses before going into my truck.



I primed the fuel system as I've successfully done before but this one just wont start. Double checked pre heater, filter o-rings, rubber lines, lift pump, swapped relief valve, etc.



How far off with injection timing will cause a no start situation? I matchmarked the pump shaft/timing gear and it when back together to where it looks like it's in the same place figuring I'd have it close enough drive it to the diesel injection shop and have it timed properly.



When I first tried starting it I was getting some smoke out the tailpipe. Now after much pumping & cranking It's not even putting out any smoke. Cracking the injector lines at the injector results in fuel squirting out of all six lines (all over engine bay:()



I'm looking for more options/opinions but my current theory is that junk got into the fuel system while it sat in the junkyard and I've now pumped it into the injectors. Smoke at first/now nothing...



Do 12v injectors have a screen that can be cleaned? If crap did get into the injectors can a diesel injection shop clean them? (like Marren motorsports or RC Engineering for gas injectors)



Thanks, Eric
 
Not too familiar with P-7100's but, it sounds like the timing is retarded to me. Its kind of like comparing apples to dump trucks, but I had a 98 VW Jetta that had a hard/no start issue when cold. It would try to start and blow white smoke until the battery was near dead before it would take off and it turned out being that the mechanical timing was too far retarded. I would call an injection shop or look around on here for some kind of pump timing check procedure and go from there ;)
 
Surely you have checked the obvious, solenoid, etc. And yes, any diesel injection shop can test-clean them for you.
 
Yes, solenoid is fine. Fuel is definitely getting to the injectors.



The rubber lines at the back of the engine were cut before it was pulled from the crashed truck. All that's before the filter.



I'm hoping nothing got into the system, but who knows.
 
sounds like the the timing is farther off than you think?, have you tried starting fluid when cranking? it only takes a very small shot out in the air close by the aircleaner, dont hose it down!.



just a quick shot out in the air with the air cleaner out when your buddy is cranking, if your close it should pop like she wants to go .
 
Just make sure the engine is allready turning before you give it a 1/2 second shot. Be a good idea to disconnect the grids first.

Check to make sure the return fuel line is not restricted. That will also cause a no-crank.
 
Maybe an insulting question, but you did say you changed the cam. Are you sure it is indexed correctly?
 
I'd check the injectors. My buddy had a common rail that did exactly the same thing you described above, turned out he had 4 bad injectors. His started off running REALLY rough and lots of white smoke... eventually it wouldnt even run at all. After 4 new injectors, it runs like a top.
 
I feel stupid now...



I checked the valve lash figuring if they some how got too tight and never closed that would cause no comperssion and no heat to light it up. No dice, they were all . 010/. 020



Cam timing, not likely. The cam & gear have a woodruf key to align them. The cam gear and crank are clearly marked as to which teeth go together.



Timing being further off, maybe. I pulled the oil fill tube and checked it and it was where I put it and it still looked good.



Injectors, thats what I'm thinking. No smoke= no fire... being totally stumped I decided to give it a shot of starting fluid (disconnected grid heaters), nothing! More starting fliud, nothing. Huge amounts of your crazy you're going to blow the head off starting fluid, NOTHING, not even a healthy weeze.



The truck is up & running, I'll let some more people guess what the problem was and finish the story in a couple days...
 
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Can't wait no couple of days. LOL

Ahhhh, tire pressure low?

If you were getting fuel to the injectors when you cracked the lines,,,I give up.

.

Yes, solenoid is fine. Fuel is definitely getting to the injectors.

Unless the fuel tank was empty causing it to suck air. NO, can't be that!
 
The only thing that comes to mind since you had proper valve timing and a no start with ether is that the intake was completely blocked off.
 
The only thing that comes to mind since you had proper valve timing and a no start with ether is that the intake was completely blocked off.

Ding,ding,ding, we have a winner!



A series of events led up to the intake being totally obstructed. If you want something done right do it yourself.



The engine arrived with duct tape over the intake manifold and a plastic plug in the exhaust elbow. I had the turbo off to drill/tap the exhaust manifold so I knew there was no foreign objects in the exhaust side. I removed the intake manifold to made installation easier and had looked inside the "square" end (tape still on the "round" end)



After the engine was installed my dad replaced the intake manifold and removed the tape while I worked on the exhaust side. Next my 16yr old helped eith the intercooler, I did the turbo side while Jon reconnected the intake side.



On the first day of this fiasco after I had fuel to the top of the injectors and it didn't start (like every other 12v I've worked on) I had Jon check for airflow at the tailpipe. Apparently I'm a bad dad and he wasn't tought that diesels have no throttle to restrict airflow at low engine speeds and thought the tiny air movement he felt was good.



My wife being a smart gal (after cranking the engine while I sprayed starting fluid) asked if we had airflow. I said "yes" then thought "well Jon said we did"...



I had the rubber coupling at the intake manifold loose to spray starting fluid in so I took it apart first. Up inside the manifold (never seen because of the duct tape that had been on it) was a roung plastic plug!



I am so glad I found it. If I hadn't I'd be out swapping my old p7100 and injectors right now:)
 
I was confused about the whole thing thinking timing for sure until you said it wouldn't even try with ether. And knowing that the engine is just an air compressor with fuel added to make it turn by itself, the ONLY thing that would prevent it from snapping to life is AIR;)

I just had an image in my head of an intake boot being slipped over the horn that had one of those plastic plugs in it by someone tired, frustrated,or a little too excited because it was almost done. :-laf
 
Don't feel bad. when ever I build an engine for somebody I always stuff a handfull of paper towels into the intake and exhaust so dirt can't get in. I did a motor for a guy who raced an FL350 modified. He took the motor with him to install it at the track. I got a call later saying I did junk work because it wouldn't start. I talked him through a series of tests and still no go. I apologized and told him to return the motor. Got a call an hour later with him singing my praises on how fast the car was.

I said HUH?

Turns out he decided to give it another try and to his amazment, along with others in the pit area, a big wad of flaming paper came shooting out of the pipe and across the pits then it ran sweet.

he knew it was there and besides, who can miss a big wad of white paper sticking out of an exhaust port?

It happens to the best of us. I've done some really stupid things too. like forgetting to kill the mag when backing up the motor on a top fuel car. Tha'll wake you up, it did me.
 
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