2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission New heater core less heat

[jdross440]

I replaced my leaking heater core in the summer on the 2000. He original core was copper/brass. The new one is aluminum. I couldn't find anyone with anything other than aluminum, 4 different parts house companies. Now that the weather is getting cold I have noticed the air is not nearly as hot with the aluminum core as it was with the copper/brass core. I have checked to make sure the blend door is going full travel and it appears to be. It appears the aluminum isn't as efficient as the copper. It could be a difference in the way the core fins and tubes are made aluminum vs copper.

 

[GAmes]

Sometimes the "expensive" oem part from Dodge isn't such a bad deal after all.

 

[goodguys75]

In cooling factor, the cooper and brass radiator will always out cool an aluminum radiator...

 

[jdross440]

Sometimes the "expensive" oem part from Dodge isn't such a bad deal after all.

From what I have read on here and others that have bought the Dodge part it is now made in Taiwan and is also aluminum.

 

[NIsaacs]

Make sure your cooling system is full, it might be a little low.

Nick

 

[B.G. Smith]

And if you have a pyrometer, check the water temp at top of radiator when truck is at full temp to be sure the thermostat is up to snuff. bg

 

[jdross440]

Almost new 192 degree thermostat from Cummins. Gauge agrees. Cooling system is full. That's the first thing I checked.

 

[jdross440]

Still haven't solved my problem. I replaced the control on the dash at the same time (the dash rolled over on the original and broke a vacuum port off). I got a replacement at a salvage yard. Does (or can) the blend motor need recalibration? We have had temps in the low single digits in January and early February. I'm glad I put in seat heaters.
Could the new heater core be partially plugged and not flowing properly?

 

[Hoefler]

Try reversing the hoses on the heater core. If there is a high and a low connection to the heater core, the supply should be on the bottom and the return on the top. If hooked up backwards, supply in at the top, you will trap air in the heater core and be unable to get it out. Bigger the air bubble the less heat you will get. Also, try driving it with the radiator cap loose, first notch so it won't build pressure, and see if it can purge any air bubbles.

 

[jdross440]

I will check the hoses and try the cap. I don't believe the hoses can be put on backwards the way they are connected to the engine and routed. Since I replaced the core I had to replace the water pump over the Christmas holidays and put in a new thermostat at that time. One thing I noticed when I replaced the core, there is no cover over the top of the core. It is open into the space behind the dash. Should there have been a cover over it? (The dealer had replaced the case and evaporator core under warranty in 2002 due to mildew odor they couldn't get rid of.)

 

[Cosmo]

Did you put the foam tape around the top?

 

[jdross440]

Are you talking about covering the top of the core with foam tape? The original had nothing over it. It was open to the space above the case.

 

[Cosmo]

Not covering the top, but sealing around the top to the housing. Some heater cores come with it, some don't.

 

[jdross440]

I will look when I can. I don't remember any foam there when I removed the original. I I just looked at pictures I took while taking it apart. There was no sealing there. The case was clean. I guess when the dealer replaced the case they didn't put any back. The local dealer is bad to do that. I caught them once saying they had changed some parts out under warranty and it still had the dirt and dust on the part they supposedly replaced. I don't use them for anything except to buy parts I can't get anywhere else and don't have time to order them online.