New member with brake Qs

[ARhine]

Hello All! New to member to the boards though I have lurked around for a few weeks.



Just picked up a 93 W250 CC a few weeks ago. Already have ordered new Skyjacker springs for the front since they are on the bumpstops. Checked into getting a KDP jig, changing all fluids (overfilling the getrag with mobil1 5w30 synth), and now need to look at the rear brakes.



Is there a good writup on this procedure. I hear alot how the adjusters are junk and don't work, my dads 90 has always seemed to have the problem.



I have done some searching and I think found all I need for the swap except how to properly remove and replace the rear hubs from the axle. I did order an FSM from chrysler though, but don't know if I will have it before I get ready to work on it. The passengers side is adjusted out and not doing anything unless I pump the pedal a couple of times.

 

[ARedetzke]

Welcome to the mad house. If you are asking how to get the drums off, all you have to do is take the bolts out of the hub, whack it with a hammer and it should come loose. Have a drip pan handy, because you will probably lose some oil. Then you can pull out the axle shaft. To get the drum off, pull out the little retainer clip that is wedged into the axle nut, and then remove the nut. I believe it is a 2 9/16" socket, but I have always used a punch and a hammer because I'm too lazy to go buy the right tool. After this your drum should come right off. This is the way I remember it coming off, but rest assured if I missed something someone else will fill it in. None of it is too complicated, it's very straight forward, and everything goes together just the way you would expect it to.

AJ

 

[cguthrie]

Welcome to TDR, BTW what size skyjackers did you order? i'd like to see pictures when you get them installed. Nice looking truck



Chris

 

[JLuechauer]

2 9/16ths is correct you can get the socket at napa. When you pull the drum off be ready to catch the front bearing (so it does not get dirty). I have not had a problem with my adjusters the only thing is they need adjusting about every month. If you are going to have everything open I would go ahead and replace otherthings too. Like wheel cylinders they actually pretty cheap and I would get a spring kit (it is much easyer to work with new springs). check the wheel seals in the hub too, sometimes they can get damaged when you pull the hub and replace the hub. There are a few other things in there too but you can see if they are bad in your own judgement. It is not that hard but I still hate to work on them. Sometime I will switch over to disc in rear.

 

[ARhine]

Welcome to TDR, BTW what size skyjackers did you order? i'd like to see pictures when you get them installed. Nice looking truck



Chris

I oredered the 1" lift ones since I do some towing and didn't want it to be nose-up on me ever. The stokers are inverted and have groves worn in them where the ends of he second leaf rub on the mainleaf. Summit said they were backordered and it might be 3-4wks before I get them.



How tight to I torque that nut to when I put the bearings/hub back on?

 

[MMiller]

This may start up a discussion. I tighten all wheel bearings by feel. I tighten then up and turn then and keep tightening them until all play is gone. I have no idea what spec is for those off the top of my head. I just tighten them enough to take the play out of them. Then I jack up each corner of the truck peroidically to check them the first few days after a repair.



When you are all done with the job and top off the diff fluid remeber to jack up each side of the axel and let it set to get oil out to the wheel bearings. Either that or park it in a ditch. I leave it set for sometimes a 1/2 hour just too make sure. I know its overkill, but it beats taking them apart on the side of the road when a wheel bearing siezes. Been there done that.



Good luck



Michael

 

[DKasper]

I do it the same way Michael does -- keep spinning the wheel for several turns after you get where you think you want to be just to be sure.



When I did mine this summer I did:

- new shoes

- new axle seals

- new adjuster -- someone put the wrong one on -- no wonder it didn't work!

- new outer bearings/races -- both were bad

- cylinder rebuilds -- kits were cheaper than replacing



I grease the bearings before putting them back in -- then I don't have to worry about the lubrication at all.



Have fun!!



Dave

 

[cerberusiam]

Since your doing the brakes you may want to consider swithing to the 3" brakes and larger wheel cylinders to help with the braking. The rear end is essentially the same as a 1 ton and all the parts interchange. The 3" rears make a difference in braking capability and wear life especially if you tow.



I have found that treating the rear brake adjusters as a wear item and replacing them as often as the brake shoes will get rid of a lot of the problems. We tend to think of them as hardware and ignore them if they are not broke but they take a lot of heat and abuse especially if used hard.



Welcome and good luck.

 

[ekroman]

RE: New member with brake Q's

I remember the first time I did the brakes on mine, I couldn't ge the drums off. Turns out the shoes had actually worn a groove in the rear drums, and the adjusters were still out far enough for the shoes to hang up when pulling the drums.



Plan on replacing the axle seals. They are notorious for leaking. For some reason, my right side one leaks regularly.



I would replace the cylinders, adjusters, and springs, particularly if you don't know the truck's history.



Welcome to the club. Remember: First generation owners are special. We have the trucks that started it all.