New Owner - 1st Question

[Fastback67]

OK... I pulled it this morning.
I remove the hoses from the top of compressor, grabbed the clutch from above, and flipped it up, at which point it dropped right out through the bottom on it's own.

I saw a lot of posts where guys had removed all of the engine coolant hoses, and the oil filter, then pulled out from above. I was desperately trying to avoid all that, so thankfully I was successful there. I knew there was enough room to drop it out the bottom, it was just a question of angles. Had to have it free to get to those refrigerant hose connections on the top, so that was a cakewalk this morning, since I already had the compressor free to roll around.

Took Momma for a 600 mile ride in the truck last weekend, with 3 little kittens in tow. I had to hear about it the entire way..."!!!!Why Haven't You Fixed The A/C Yet!!!!"
It worked a little last year, but the compressor was showing signs of failure, so I knew there wasn't much hope for this year. That said, I'm replacing the entire system soup to nuts, with the exception of the evaporator. I didn't want to pull the heater box unless it was absolutely necessary, so I drill a 4" inspection port in the side of the heater box, so I could have a look at the evaporator. Looks like the evaporator may have been replaced at some point, probably when it was switched from R12 to R134. Either way, it still looks clean and fairly new. I blew 100 psi air through it at the firewall, and it doesn't appear to be restricted in any way, so I'm calling it good.
I'm also keeping the Suction side hose rig, since it appears that replacements are not available... None that I've been able to find anyway.

 

[Fastback67]

Started putting some of the A/C components back in the truck yesterday morning before the big winds came in.

Firstly, I relocated the Dryer about 1/2" closer to the firewall; the factory location was putting way too much strain on the hose and flange at the outlet side of the dryer. The hose to the Exp. Vlv is a little to short, while the one coming from the condenser has plenty of slack, so relocating it was not an issue.
I flushed the Evaporator, it was pretty clean as expected. Flushed the old suction hose assembly, and repainted the outside tubing's, etc. Tested the low pressure switch to make sure it was functioning correctly, and installed it in the side of the expansion valve. Then I installed the valve and attached the LP hose assembly. I also mounted the new Condenser, but haven't tied it into the system just yet.
The new replacement compressor is more or less identical to the OEM job I pulled out with one exception, The hose inlet ports are located roughly 1/4" to 3/8" closer to the clutch on this new Four Seasons compressor. I'm praying this won't cause an interference issue with anything above, as things are pretty tight in that area.

 

[Fastback67]

As of this morning, everything is back together, and the A/C in the truck is now "fully functional".
I had to find an alternative replacement for the A/C Clutch Cycling Switch, since that "Solid State" OEM unit is no longer made, and mine was dead. I picked up a Murray 35720 which is a standard switch found in many older applications. The newer Murray units are adjustable as well. I had to make a minor alteration to my existing wiring connections, but that was no biggie, so I wired it up this morning. I didn't like the OEM location for the switch because it blocked my access to the pressure switch behind it. Not to mention the fact that it's a farg'n pain in the arss to work with in that location. That said, I relocated the cycling switch to the inner fender area, right next to the Voltage Regulator that I had previously relocated from it's original position.
Took the truck out for a spin... plenty of nice cool air now! It's the first time the truck has had a fully functioning A/C system since I bought it.... It's nice!

 

[Fastback67]

I made one more small addition this morning.
I didn't like the idea of the capillary tubing for the switch just hanging out there with no protection, so I put a little foam on and a few ty-wraps to cover it for now. I'll throw a piece of wire loom over it when I come across a piece.

 

[Fastback67]

Took the wife and cats for another road in the truck this weekend. I had to use the Blend Door and apply a little heat to the A/C this trip however. My wife was to cold now with the A/C running. You can't win for loosing eh...
The new alternative Cycling Switch is definitely operating as it should. Just when you think the A/C couldn't possibly get any colder without freezing up, it cycles.

 

[Fastback67]

Sorry... Forgot to post this last shot.
Found a few bits of wire loom hanging around the shop, so I made a little cover to go over the foam... Done!

 

[Jdorfmeyer]

Looks good!

 

[Fastback67]

Thank You Sir!

 

[Fastback67]

I installed a couple of simple suspension upgrades yesterday...

I added a Roadmaster Active Suspension kit out back (Kit #4614 for 2-1/2" wide springs).

I also added an ADDCO Sway Bar up front. I liked the fact that the truck was already setup for a sway bar, drilled and tabbed, ready to go. An easy nut & bolt install!

 

[Grey Wolf]

Mike do have any thoughts on the ride after your Roadmaster Active Suspension installation? Things are looking good and you are still having fun GW

 

[AnonEd]

I'm not surprised the front bar went in easily...the factory front bar on my W-250 was optional and in 1992 listed for $41. Figured for that $ I couldn't duplicate it and it could always be removed...

 

[Fastback67]

Mike do have any thoughts on the ride after your Roadmaster Active Suspension installation?

Right now I have good heavy load of stone, concrete, brick, steel, cast iron, and heavy lumber loaded in the bed of the truck, so I can only say how it feels at the present time with a bed full of heavy tools and equipment, etc. I did test drive it before and after adding the sway bar however. In either case the ride quality and handling are very much improved. I purposely took it for a quick test drive around a few sharp curves in the area that are banked the wrong way. Even with the bed empty, these particular corners put the suspension to a test at speed. You can really feel the weight of the truck leaning into them, and it's not a very good feeling.
Today however, hitting those same curves at speed with the bed loaded, I felt very confident, if not comfortable. Of course, adding the heavy duty 1.125" sway bar after the first test drive was just another obvious step forward in handling performance here.
The ride was very smooth, but then again, Montana's buckboard ride is almost always improved when you have some actual weight on the suspension. I'm dropping this load off at my home in NH this coming Monday, so we'll and see how things have changed when heading back to CT with an empty bed later in the week. This will provide me with a better gage of what exactly has changed in terms of ride quality and handling performance.... so more to follow here next week!

 

[Fastback67]

I had to be at work in CT Thursday morning, so I left my place in NH at 5:am Thursday with an empty bed.
I really thought that the suspension was going to feel even stiffer now than before with the addition of the Roadmaster Kit, but it was actually smoother. All the bumps were still there, but at least they weren't jarring the fillings out of my teeth now, and the front suspension never bottomed out once. No hopping and skipping across those Massachusetts washboards either, very well controlled. I only swore once on the ride back.

The ride up with the bed loaded was really under control too. The trucks buckboard suspension has always been happier with a load on it, but was still subject to objections when crossing Mass.... not this time though.

That said, I'm very happy with the performance of the Roadmaster kit and the new front Sway Bar.
The Roadmaster kit raised the rear of the truck about 1", so I'll be replacing the worn out OEM leaf springs up front with a new set with a 1" lift.