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Next Level '34CK TH with '05 2500 4x4 SB CTD, OK ???

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Hi all ... my first post on TDR but have been on all the other forums out there . . thought I would get further input from people actually towing with my vehicle ...



Ok, I am kinda at my breaking point of research and what to do ... I just hate knowing I am at or over tow ratings and wont really know by how much until I buy it and its too late. This is also compounded by fact I am trying to go with a smaller 5er than many out there and still pushing it almost regardless of any 5er I buy and there is no real weights to go by.



I have '05 Dodge 2500 4x4 short bed QC CTD and just got my Valley 16K slider hitch installed. My combined weight rating is ~13,100# and my payload rating is ~2,200#.



I really like the 34CK Holiday Rambler - Next Level (McKenzie Dune Chaser is also same thing) toy hauler mainly due to all aluminum structure, only one with aluminum smooth walls, many unique options, and suprisingly it is essentially the exact same price as a WW 35LE equally equipped.



Base weight is 10,040lbs which means I have right at 3,000 left over for options, toys, gear, people, fluids, etc. Pin weight is claimed to be 2,470 so I will be over this with hitch, gear, people, etc ... i am thinking I will be ~3,000# payload when all loaded up. It is one of the highest published dry weight 33-35ft 5er's out their. My issue is, could they be giving more factual numbers where as many have already suggested WW is way under published as well as others ??? I would be rather irritated if I bought a WW 33LE or 35LE t "supposedly" save some weight only to find out I was fooled.



Looked at one today and the sticker inside said 11,700 dry. According to the sticker, and we called the factory rep (for what its worth?), this includes full 130gallons of water, full 60 gallons of fuel for station and gener. , and also includes "most but not all options" (what the heck does that tell me?). This unit had the fiberglass option and bedroom slide which I am sure adds some good amount of weight (no idea if these were included in the sticker weight but feasable that they might have been) ... I wont be getting these options.



Also, I looked at several of the different Next Level models and the stickers they had for dry weight and all were different by several hundred pounds even on the same model so apparently they are trying to include something different for each unit.



Ok, all the above is probably a waste ... we will never be able to figure this out I dont think ... I could feasably be about 14,000 loaded up with two quads depending on whats really included in those weights. I guess I should be spending my energy trying to get the unit on a scale. The problem is I will be ordering and still wont know how much difference Al vs. fiberglass will make as well as no slide out and a couple other things ... if nothing else, I guess it would give a baseline to then possibly theorize off of. I cant beleive nobody but Skyline is willing to tell us what the trailer really weight and/or give a baseline weight for each option to add up the for a close approximation.



Assuming I am willing to travel no faster than 60MPH open freeway and 55MPH on highways max, maybe here are the real questions I should ask:



1. How much weight really "makes a difference" ... I mean is pulling a 13K 5er really that much different than pulling a 14K. Ok, is pulling an 11K 5er different than pulling a 13K 5er ???

2. In general would you think Dodge (and other manuf. ) weight ratings of 13K max is more on the conservative side or true max ???

3. Should I really let a 1,000# or maybe 2,000# more scare me away from a Next Level I really want instead of maybe stepping down to Weekend Warrior 31LE???

4. I also have it stuck in my head that pulling a triple axle unit should make a huge difference in sway and safety in general. I mean, when I walk around in a dual axle on the lot I can feel the unit moving under my feeta and wanting to rock ... on the triples it feels almost like a solid foundation ... has to make a difference when pulling and thus maybe a bit more weight is ok ????



I know probably 70% of people are over wieght (Ex. rails in the back of 38 and 40 5ths) and its not like I really care to join them but it makes it frustrating when you know this, are trying to stay under limits, and what you want weights close to limits or over and all of these units are extremely heavy regardless (stepping down to say 31ft ony helps out about 1,000 in general and there a few 5ths smaller).



I guess I am trying to void that threshold of where risky becomes outright dangerous regardless of driving habits, etc. ...



Also, I think I will do the following to become safer:



- Upgrade to 4. 10 gears (which brand?)

- Exhaust brake (which brand/type ?)

- Super spring or stock 3500 helper spring or air bags (this essentially, but yes unofficially, makes my truck a 3500)

- A little bit wider tires (wider wheelbase) while maintaining stock or above load ratingds ... probably moot ...



Any input appreciated (sorry to those who have seen this post on the other forums ... just getting everones input).
 
If thats the case I would order the aluminum sides and forget about the slide out on a fifth wheel. You dont really need these, theres plenty of room in these trailers. My buddy got a Titan 35' with fibersides and slide out and his trailer now weights 11 something, hes pulling with a Duramax 2500. I dont need these extras and mine weights 8523, max that can be loaded into this trailer is 14,760. Next Levels run alittle heavier then other trailers, are you totally sold on the Next level? I know my wife and I were sold on Weekend Warriors but they were overpriced and Giant RV didnt want to hook up returning customers, Ill never pay more then $975 per foot on a toybox, this includes taxes. I know what kind of headache your going through because Ive been there looking for the right Weekend Warrior. Then my Father in Law painted the owner of Richardson's RV and we got a deal on the Rage'n. We figured forget Weeekend and go with the Next level because Richardsons carries them but the weight of those trailers would mean for me to get a new truck and I dont have that kind of cash. So I got the airbags and will be picking up the trailer tomorrow. I wasnt even looking a fifthwheel till the salesman asked me if I was interested in one and I said no but you can show it to me. Lets just say that out of the Next Level, Titan and Rage'n fifthwheel I was sold on the rage'n no questions asked, I told him to write it up and the deal closed. One thing about next levels is there flashy but my kids and leather dont mix unless I was single. Think about it. I can always give you the name of my salesman and let him know youll be contacting him pretty soon.
 
Trailer weights

If I were you I would expect the trailer to weigh the manufacturers GVWR when loaded for a trip. My current trailer is a Holiday Rambler with aluminum sides with a GVWR of 11,500 and when we weighed it at a RV rally, on 3 sperate occasions it weighed 11,500+ lbs !

IMHO you will be over your trucks GVWR of 9,000 lbs. The better way to estimate how much you can tow is to weigh your truck, with you, full of fuel, and subtract that number for your GCWR of 21,000 lbs to find how much you can tow. Then determine your pin weight and check to be sure that you are not over your trucks GVWR.

As an example, if your truck weighs 7,500 lbs you can tow a 13,500 lbs trailer. Now if this trailer has 20% pin weight then you truck will have 2,700 lbs in the bed. 7,500 + 2,700 = 10,200 lbs :eek: Well over your trucks 9,000 lbs GVWR. Even if your truck was a 3500 SRW with their 9,900 lbs GVWR it wouldn't help.

This was driven home to me when I weighed my truck and trailer combination. I have regular travel trailer and it has a 1675 lb tongue weight which exceeds Dodge's allowed tongue weight limit of 1,200 LB, additionally the receiver has a trailer weight limit of 12,000 lbs. Now since my trailer weighs 11,500 and the truck weighs in at almost 9,000 lbs empty, that's 20,500 lbs before I put anything in the back. Since I have the 3. 73 ratio my limit is 21K lbs and thus any significant overload of the trailer will cause me to exceed both the trailer GVWR and the GCWR of the truck. And my trailer is small compared to what's out there in the fifth wheel line-up! You will be overloaded for sure with what your considering. IMHO. Ken Irwin
 
I can't help you on how much the trailer actually weighs -- I would ask the dealer to let you take it to a truck stop to weigh it. For a XX,XXX thousand dollar trailer he should let you.



What you need to worry about most is the tire ratings since you can't really change that without getting a dually or 19. 5's.



So your tires are 3195# per tire * 2 (single rear wheel) = 6390 lbs. until you are in danger.



With your hitch you are probably at 3000 before hooking up the trailer, leaving about 3390 # of pin weight until you will be over the tire ratings.



Figure 25% of the entire trailer weight is pin weight, so 3390*4= 13560, the approximate max. weight of the trailer you should pull.
 
Red rider ... you will be over GVWR also with the pin weight of the '34 Ragen ... the 30ft Rage'n model is listed as 2110# so you will like be at 2200+ with the 34ft dry and its a total crap shoot what your pin weight might be loaded up ... could even be lower if empy and some heavy toys

at the very rear :) .



I like the Rage'n TH also and its still on the top of my list of possible options ... . I just really like triple axles as they dont budge when I walk around in them ...



enjoy your TH ...
 
I have the 34ck mckenzie dune chaser with just the bedroom slide, fiberglass siding, 5500k generator. I use my 03 srw 3500 to pull it all the time I have weigh it full of crap and it was 6560 on the rear axel with the aux tank in the truck full(43 gal) main tank full, water tank full, both fuel tanks on camper full(60 gal), 1 atv,3 dirt bikes. It is a tripple axel trailer with a gvw of 16999# so it may be diffrent from the trailer you are looking at. I was just under 25k tcw.

I have on order some ricksons 19. 5 but they have been on order now 11 weeks :( . rickson is giving me some $ back because of the long wait.



My father has the 38fks dune chaser 2 slides, 3 axel same gvw and it squats my 04 drw with 7950 on the rear axel.

-robert
 
There is not enough difference between a dually and my modified 2500 for me to trade now. We are planning to do something in 2007. I feel that Dodge will introduce a HD 3500 with new auto transmission and engine in 2007. It would be a waste of money for me to think a dually is that much better. My rig is grossing a little over 11k and about 21. 8k with my 36' Cedar Creek. I just made 4600 miles out west with it and except for soft springs it did just fine. I am looking at a set of 285/19. 5s which will be a good combination for my truck. I like the handling of my short wheel base truck. I added 2 full length leaf springs last week and it has made all the difference in the world. It is a big jump from a 32' to a 36-38' RV. And for someone just buying a truck knowing they are looking at a large RV should go with a dually. There is also a big difference in the driving in the east and the west. That is a consideration.
 
TW



I have the 36' Keystone Raptor. . It is around 10K empty... . It has 6 tires and it tows really well. The gas and water is toward the rear, and it has a 12' garage separated by a wall. It has 2 slide-outs, and I think after I was all loaded up, the total was like 15,500# which is the GVW of the trailer...



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I have the type of truck as you... .

I have done several things to make this work.



power upgrades almost to 400 hp rear wheel.



Jacobs Exhaust brake,



I use a 6 speed manual. with a south bend clutch



Raodmaster springs on the rear to take the extra weight... . you can do air springs if you want... .



Ricksons 19. 5" Forged aluminum 4500# rims and 12ply "F" rated Michelin comercial tires... rated at 4080# @ 95psi



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See how the rear is raked up a bit, When the trailer is hooked up, it levels it out.



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I am over GVW of the truck yes, (10,600#)... . I am over the GCVWR, yes... (22,600) BUT... I am not over any axle..... Steer, 4400#, ... . drives, 6200#,... . trailers, 12,000#, not over any tire weight rating... (Drives able to take 8000#)



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I am an interstate truck driver and I recognize the dangers here... I drive slower and with the ability to slow with the jacobs and 6 tires on the trailer, I hardly use brakes at all. except for the final stop.



The "F" rated tires hold the weight well and don't squish from the weight of the trailer. I get 10 mpg towing this so if you get a trailer that is 14K then it should be OK if you do certian steps to your truck
 
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Eric, at only 6200 you would still be below the stock tire ratings by 630#. That alone is a pretty big safety margin. The newer trucks don't have 3415# per tire tires though, only 3195. Of course it can't hurt running the medium duty truck tires ( I was running the 19. 5's with load range H tires for a while).
 
That 630# is total for the 2 tires..... 315 # per tire..... Thats a little close..... At 6200# and able to hold 8160#, the margin for each tire is 900#... . thats better...



Plus the all steel construction of the tire means that even if the 16's were able to hold, they were alot more squishy feeling.



I'm a truck driver and I hate that feeling when I drive on G rated 6000# tires all week... ... Freightliner and set of tripples..... I believe in overkill!!
 
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