NO 4 Wheel Drive

[Shadrach]

The other day when driving my Dodge and I turned onto an icy side street so I turned the knob to put the truck into 4WD. It went CLUNK going in and later ClUNK going back into 2WD. It has never done that before. The next morning when pulling out of my parking spot at home I noticed the rear end spinning more than usual. We have had a lot of freeze thaw weather so the back alleys are very icy. When I got off the main road and pulled into the icy parking lot at work I again put it into 4WD as a test to see if the front wheels would "hop" as I parked. They didn't. Not a good sign. The first thing I checked was to see if some one had turned my hubs to Free as a prank, but there are in Lock mode. Now I have NO 4 wheel drive at all, in either HI or LO range. I can hear the electric shift actuator going click when I turn the knob, but it is a quieter click that my co workers 06 who just put a new actuator on. The truck has almost 400k kms ( 245k miles ) on it and the T case is original. It is the NV 273 which seems to be fairly tough as I have seen many Hot Rod Dodges put way more HP than I have thru the stock T case without breaking it. David

 

[AH64ID]

Sounds like an actuator might be on your weekend list.

 

[mwilson]

David,

Just make sure that both hubs are truly locking, I would jack each front wheel up and check.

They used to fail in the old days when everyone's 4WD truck had them.

Worth a look before laying cash out for the actuator.

Mike.

 

[jhenderson]

Is it going into low range, but 2 wheel drive , or staying in high. If it's going into low it's not the actuator.

 

[rscurtis]

With the hubs locked, reach in from the driver's side and see if you can turn the front DS. If you can, one (or both) of the hubs is still free.

 

[Shadrach]

With the hubs locked the drive shaft only moves a bit not free like it does when in 2WD. It doesn't go into Hi or Lo range. I don't need to get it fixed right away as I got my Jeep back from the body shop so I can park it til it warms up. I pull the actuator when I get a chance and see how it looks. David

 

[jhenderson]

I'm confused. If it won't go into high or low at all the truck won't move. Is that correct? [

 

[CRodi]

I think he means he only has rear wheel drive, and the front axle is not engaging at all. I'm curious to see what Shadrach finds as I'm in the same boat.

I had both rear wheels spinning in the same direstion(LSD) on ice/snow and both front wheels were stationary. I also checked to make sure my hubs were locked(they were). Did away with the CAD. The front drive shaft was spinning, but the front wheels were not turning. I took the locking hubs apart when I got home. I thought maybe they were frozen or seized. They were free and actually worked. I drove the truck in 4WD on dry roads, but felt absolutely no driveline bind at all, even on tight turns. It defies logic. I realize the front axle is open, but I figure I should have at least one front wheel turning as well as both rear wheels turning(LSD). I just got back from Florida last week and run into some nasty weather through Ohio. Michigan, and southern Ontario, and my truck certainly didn't feel like it was in 4WD.

All my work on the truck gets done outside, so I'll wait until the snow melts and the temperature climbs to a comfortable level, before I drop the pumpkin cover. I wouldn't mind taking it to a good front end or 4WD shop, but that's pretty near impossible to find.

 

[JJPage]

The actuator could be functioning properly, the linkage/moveable parts may be stuck/jammed from lack of use or debris/ice? My electronic 4 wheel drive system is stubborn as heck both ways, in and out of 4 wheel drive, wish I had a lever and the extra cubby hole space .

Maybe you could get your truck onto a frame hoist, or 4 jack stands... and try activating the system while there is no binding involved.

Jess

 

[rscurtis]

Did away with the CAD.

How did you eliminate the CAD? Is there a possibility it could be disengaged?

 

[AH64ID]

There isn't CAD on any 3rd gen truck.

 

[rscurtis]

I know. I assume he's referring to his signature truck, a '97.

 

[AH64ID]

I figured, but didn't want to assume. There are ways to permanently lock it and kits to replace it with a 1 piece shaft.

 

[Shadrach]

My 2WD works fine, just no 4 x4. If I get time this weekend I will pull the actuator off and check it out. Today I found a friend of a friend who will sell me a complete t case with actuator for just a few bucks more than Dodge wants for the act by itself. His was rebuilt about a year ago. He wrecked the truck. David

 

[RVTRKN]

That is the reason I ordered my C&C with the manual shift, I didn't trust or want the extra mechanism, it sounds as if your actuator is not engaging your transfer case. You might do a search for electric shift problems, I seem to remember a rash of problems with the first of the 3rd Gens productions.

 

[CRodi]

Did away with the CAD.

How did you eliminate the CAD? Is there a possibility it could be disengaged?

Sorry for the the confusion. I was referring to my second gen. I had the Dynatrac stage 2 free spin kit installed. The passenger side 2 piece shaft with the sliding collar was replaced with the one piece shaft. The new shafts were 35 spline and required new side gears, not included with the kit.

When spring finally arrives and I swap the winter tires, I'll jack up all 4 corners and run the transfer case through all positions. If the front wheels stil don't turn I'll remove the front axle cover and see what's going on with the pinion. If the front wheels still don't turn I'll look for a decent shop or better still call you guys.

 

[CRodi]

I got bored and couldn't wait until spring. I took the truck to the shop that sold me the Dynatrac free spin kit. When I bought the kit they didn't offer service, just parts. They just relocated 2 weeks ago and started servicing what they sell. Any way they discovered that the right side Warn hub failed. I think the spring got week and won't engage and disengage properly. I noticed that when I had it apart that the spring was weak and I worked it loose with needle nose pliers and WD 40. It still worked but it was just slow. The kit was installed Sept. 12 - 2012 and I put about 27,000 miles on it. In a twist of irony, I had originally ordered the Dynaloc hubs, but of course the order got screwed up and I took what I got. I didn't want to wait any longer. I guess it's a long trip from California to Ontario, plus the red tape. Any way the manager explained that Warn hubs fail in the "unlocked " position, while Dynaloc hubs fail in the "locked" position. I don't understand it, but that's what he told me. Any way, I'm waiting for parts, and it looks like it will be sometime next week before I get new hubs. The shop will order new hubs and work with Dynatrac to get warranty on the hubs. While I was there, the manager got a call from a customer in Ottawa with the exact same problem as mine, and once again they were Warn hubs. So I don't know if this is common problem or not.

David Shadrach: I noticed in your signature that you also have the Dynatrac kit. Do you have the Warn or Dynaloc hubs. You might want to have a close look at the hubs. I thought mine were OK, but I was wrong. As soon as I told the tech, that my front drive shaft was turning, he zeroed in on the problem right away.

Good luck.

 

[Shadrach]

I have the Dnyaloc hubs and haven't had any issues with them so far. David

 

[AH64ID]

Any way the manager explained that Warn hubs fail in the "unlocked " position, while Dynaloc hubs fail in the "locked" position. I don't understand it, but that's what he told me.

Yukon hubs are similar to Dynatrac, they use the spring to go into lock so that if you remove the selector (or it breaks) the driving splines will be engaged. Warn does the opposite so it needs the selector to go into lock.

 

[RVTRKN]

So this makes a good question, which would be preferable? I would want them to fail unlocked so it could be driven to a repair shop, any opinions.