2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Noise reduction effort update

[Hohn]

Found! Exciting new noise blocker possibility!!

Hey gang, thought I might share with you a little discovery of mine.



Background: I am a musician, and love sound and acoustics and all that. Auralex is a company of golden reputation that makes sound diffusing and sound absorbing products for recording studios and concert halls and such.



Anyway, they make a product that comes in sheet form called "sheetblok"!



Check this out:

"SheetBlok is a dense, limp-mass vinyl material that is about 6dB more effective than solid lead at stopping the transmission of sound. It acts as a thin, dense sound barrier layer in walls, ceilings or floors and is most effective when used as one component of a multi-layered construction scheme.



SheetBlok helps in decoupling (i. e. floating) floors and walls and, while it's not normally considered a finish product per se, it is paintable with latex paint. "



It weighs a pound per sq ft. It is rated for temps from -40 to 180°.



This might be an exciting alternative to lead sheeting. Not TOXIC either!!

 

[Hohn]

OH! Here's the link...

Sorry!Link to Sheetblok



HOHN

 

[Lsfarm]

Thanks

Thanks Hohn, yet another product to try.



[ SIGH ] not enough time.



BTW: the lead is harmless unless you ingest it.



There is a dealer a few miles north of me, maybe I will mosey up there sometime soon.



Greg L

 

[KL]

Hohn, when I did the back wall of my cab, I put on a layer of (dynamat type) sound deadener first. I then used contact cement to attach GSI Superfoam to this. I like the way they work in combination.



Thanks for the heads up about the Auralex web site. Its great to get so many ideas from this site. Klaus

 

[tbaca]

Been reading this thread for awhile. If I want to start off with the rear panel, how much material should I get? I would probably just order it from JC Whitney.



Thanks,

_____

/

 

[KL]

tbaca, I ordered a 12 square foot piece (32" X 54") of 1/2 inch GSI Superfoam (but I had a 2+ square feet left). In an earlier reply to this post Glasmiths said the JC Whitney number was 15ZH8488B and it was cheaper then at GSI.



To gain maximum performance consider applying some sound deadening material on the cab wall under the GSI Superfoam. The added mass will help to reduce vibration. I don't know if JC Whitney sells this or not. GSI sells a Sound deadener called "GSI Sound Dampening" which is similar to Dynamat, but a lot cheaper. TDR members aslo get a 15% discount there. Once the weather warms up I have a few more things to try. Good luck. KL

 

[Lsfarm]

Rear Wall

Hi Tbaca: Just take a measuring tape and measure the rear seat width and from the window to the floor, this will give the basic square footage needed. While you are there I would do the rear floor too.



I'm sorry I don't have an actual number for you, but I do know that two 30"x54" sheets of GSI 1/2" foam will do the back wall with leftovers for the floor.



Get an extra sheet and do the oil pan, You will love it!



Greg L. the Noise Nazi

 

[tbaca]

thanks Greg. Looks like three should do the back/floor and some to try the oil pan. I hadn't thought about the oil pan much, so I'll need to go back over the posts and see how to attach this stuff to the oil pan.



_____

/ony

 

[tbaca]

KL,

I took a look at the GSI products. Thanks for the suggestion to put down the Sound Dampening first. JC Whitney shows a product no. 12ZX6933B I wonder if this is the same as the Sound Dampening.



BTW, The JCW price for the 1/2" stop foam is about %33 less than GSI's web price.



_____

/ony

 

[TomGolden]

Just for reference, here is my TDR album with a few pictures of

doing the GSI foam on the main and quad cab door panels last

weekend.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&userid=4954&albumid=662



Enjoy.

 

[GLASMITHS]

Good Pics

Glad you had time to do that



There is one thing though that some are missing. And that is the fact that the material itself does not cut the noise that much. From personal knowledge and reading these sites, noise in this instance, is the vibration of metal. That is why Greg says that the lead is still best, with sound stop added perhaps, because it adds mass to the metal and cuts down on vibration.



My door panel have never been off, so there may be a huge pile of worms that I don't want to tackle. We'll see. I believe all the stuff from JC Whitney comes from Sound Stop. Check the prices. I have boxes from JC that has a GSI stamp on them.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Sheetblok

I called Seattle Pro Audio, who is a distributor for Auralex products (makers of Sheetblok) and they said the 4x10 foot roll is $139 plus shipping. He suggested I contact Auralex tomorrow at 800-95WEDGE to talk about our specific applications, so I will do this and post back what they say.





Here's a project I did: I popped the dash bezel off and removed the instrument cluster, HVAC controls, headlight switch and airbag switches, and lower kick panel below steering column and stuffed a bunch of foam rubber in the large open nooks & crannies. It made a noticeable improvement and didn't cost a dime since it was just laying around. Downside is that stuff will deteriorate in 5-10 years.



Vaughn

 

[Peterbilt379CJ]

you people have got to be kidding me!!!!!!!!!!! A quiet truck? you need to hear that thing. especially when the tubo spools up and comes on-line... ... ... music to my ears.

 

[GLASMITHS]

Kidding??

We kiddith thou not- IIGeorge 5:21

 

[KL]

Tom, thanks for attaching the photos. I haven't done the doors yet, but its nice to see what they look like inside before taking the panels off. Klaus

 

[KL]

tbaca, Thanks for the information about JC Whitney. I looked up the deadener (12ZX6933B) on their web site. Based on the picture and the information they supplied, it is not the same as the GSI Sound Dampening Sheet. They said that you get 6 sheets of a rubberized material per package. Its hard to tell how well it would work. It might work very well. I don't recall seeing that anyone has tried it. A critical factor is its weight per square foot, thats why lead is so good.



Without knowing how large the sheets of deadener from JC Whitney are, its hard to tell if its a good buy or not. Klaus

 

[GGibson]

In the posts about 8 mo's ago it seemed like lead glued to the panels was very effective. Now, several other options have showed up like soundstop and dynamat etc. , with some people using dynamat followed with 1/2" soundstop.



Also earlier, someone mentioned that the "best" results should be starting with dynamat followed by lead. (how thick is dynamat?)



Others recommend lead directly on the panels (floors doors etc). Maybe two layers of lead on passenger side.



I know we're all trying a lot of combo's but if I were starting today what direction would you recommend. Are you guys finding that there's no big difference between the lead and these new products?? I don't mind working with the lead.



Seems to me the lead would be the easiest to work with because of the thickness. ??

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

sheetblock

A talked to a rep at the company that manufactures Sheetblok and it doesn't come with any stick-on adhesive, it's designed for sound studios, not really for vehicles. Doesn't sound like the best choice.



Vaughn

 

[Lsfarm]

Doing it over again

Hi GGibson, if I were to do it over again, I would line the floor and back wall with a layer of lead, and put two layers on the passenger side floor and over the transmisson hump. Then I would cover tha back wall and door panels with GSI 1/2"foam.



Adding the lead to the sheet metal adds mass, which changes the way and the amount the metal vibrates and ressonates. This acts like throwing a blanket over a base drum, the drum membrane can't vibrate the same and make the same quantity or quality of sound.



I would still cover the oil pan in lead and GSI foam, and line the HVAC intake trough under the windshield with lead sheet and foam.



The firewall still needs as much attention with foam as you can give it, and the exhaust downpipe could use a layer of 'header wrap'.



With the above items done, you will have a significantly quieter truck.



Hope this helps, Greg L. The Noise Nazi

 

[cmckinney]

What is the HVAC?



Seems like you could get some fiberglass and put around the exhaust down pipe?



-CM