2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Noise reduction effort update

[GLASMITHS]

Undercoating inside

Something you need to consider is the solvent fumes inside the cab; and also the flame ability issue. I personally would not put it on the inside. It would help if you put it outside where it is not exposed to heat, like a down pipe or muffler.

 

[GLASMITHS]

CM

I have not done mine as yet. About 2 weeks from now. Am going to take a trip to Clarksdale, MS on the 7th and will have it done by then. Also, to my knowledge, there isn't any place locally that handles it. You might call GSI and see if some audio shop in your area handles it. I'm sure that JCW isn't their sole seller!



Go to the other Noise reduction thread. There are a lot of pics.



george

 

[GLASMITHS]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...40821&perpage=15&highlight=noise&pagenumber=7



The above thread is where all the pics are and good info on the lead---------

 

[kchristopher]

Re: Undercoating inside

Originally posted by GLASMITHS

Something you need to consider is the solvent fumes inside the cab; and also the flame ability issue. I personally would not put it on the inside. It would help if you put it outside where it is not exposed to heat, like a down pipe or muffler.

Interesting points that bring up a few questions:



Is our interior (carpet, seat foam, seat cloth) made out of flame retardant material?



Regardless of the answer, to the first question, would dried rubber undercoating be more of a fire hazzard than all the material covering it up?



After seeing a few burned out hulks, I get the impression that everything in the interior burns hot. I'm not sure rubber undercoating would have any real impact on that.



As to the solvent, I'm assuming it would dissipate over time, like glue solvent. Is this assumption incorrect?

 

[TomGolden]

Well, I have used spray adhesive (3M #77) for all the GSI foam on the inside of my cab. It smells for about 3 - 4 days, then it dissapates and no more fumes.

 

[KL]

Re: UPS brought my DB meter!!

Originally posted by GLASMITHS

Maybe this will bring it back up.



OK - have been playing with this thing and KL to answer your last question yes, you can get different reading from the drivers and passenger seats. This was surprising. 77db for drivers and 69db for passenger. Maybe that pipe coating or wrap did make a difference. Also, the back wall was 78db. Listen to this - the exhaust pipe - 101db below front bumper, close to truck- 102db No wonder people look All these measurements was at idle and I was just playing; will figure out how to properly measure set thing up before any more posts. Hope to get to the Noise Killer in about 2 weeks.



Later



george

I got a db meter today. I know that different meters may give a different readings (placed on the center console, the "C scale" meter read 74 with the engine off and the fan turned on high). The below readings were taken at 55 degrees and on a concrete driveway. With the engine idling, and placing the meter on the center console, I got a reading of 79 pointing towards the drivers side, 81 pointing towards the passenger side and 76 pointing towards the rear. When I put the meter on the floor, I got some big differences, 79 on the drivers side, 84 on the passenger side and 77 in the rear.



George, in the above post you mentioned that pipe coating or wrap may have made a difference. Did you use header wrap (also known as exhaust tape) on the exhaust or something else? Did you cover the down pipe or more of the exhaust system? Do you think it was worth it? Thanks Klaus

 

[GLASMITHS]

Exhaust Wrap

KL- The wrap that I used was from Summit. My wife says it made a lot of difference. I did the downpipe to 1st hanger. Yes it is worth it. Also I purchased a valve cover from somebody About $160. Kinda pricey but again the dbs are down, and the wifey says she can't hear the truck in the house.



My reading are 2-3 below yours, and these two items could make the difference. I have hope of getting on mine big time next week-end. Have a long trip pulling the 5er the 7th and back on 11th, so want to have it done by then.



Oh, on the Header wrap, I purchased a can of the silver spray, and put a couple of coats on the downpipe. It is to help prevent rust.

 

[GLASMITHS]

NOISE REDUCTION IN PROGRESS

This afternoon stripped the interior of truck, everything. Those seats are a little heavy for one person. I now have one coat of the liquid Noise Killer drying. Everything is GREY. Ofcourse there wasn't much of anything on the back wall, even a good coat of paint This is so dumb. They use 3 large bolts to secure the bracket for the jack, then use a rubber strap to hold the jack.



I did not remove the two end supports for the rear seats. That would be 10 more bolts. So used a brush and got under inside and everywhere possible. Also inside quarter panel. Am not going to do the doors this round. Will not have enough NK and time is a problem. I need to be back on the road Monday am; so will save that for later.



Others that have done this - What did you do about the asaphalt stuff on the floor? It would have to be ground off; so I just left it. I believe it will help with the bult on the metal. Also removed the STUFF from the carpet that way 2 layers of foam can be put on the flat surfaces (not on hump).



Also, on the firewall - there is this hard coating plus a 1/4 foam with a plastic barrier. I elcted not to remove this. My plans are to use the NK and foam in the engine comp also.



I took some reading before, then after it was stripped. From 4-7 db higher with everything out. Highest on back wall and on pass side.



Hopefully, I'll have the GSI foam in by tomorrow evening and can get some good readings.

 

[John]

I started adding Dynamat Xtreme as soon as the product became available... several years ago. I purchased more Dynamat Xtreme as well as their new Extreme Liner... I just need to find the time to apply these materials.



Also, I just ordered, received and installed my new ATP oil pan blanket today. What an awesome piece! That bad boy weighs in at a healthy 11 lb. 6 oz. ! Installation was pretty straight forward although, I did have a little fun trying to feed the front half of the blanket between the frame cross member and the high portion of the oil pan.



Seat of the pants noise observations will follow (once I get done with all the upgrade projects on my Ram and can start it again).

 

[KL]

George, when I did the interior of my truck, I also left the factory asphalt sheets. IMO the factory asphalt sheets just help add weight to the floorpan and therefore reduce vibration a little bit. After you get back from your trip, let us know how the Noise Killer/GSI foam combination works.



John, curious to hear how the ATP oil pan blanket works for you. At 11 plus pounds it seems like they didn't try to cut corners making it.



Thanks Klaus

 

[John]

Klaus, I would imagine that the normal (off-the-shelf) ATP oil pan blanket would weigh in at 12 pounds exactly. I had ATP notch a front corner area to clear my two Amsoil remote filters (which they did for free! ).



I haven't started up my Ram yet as I am currently working on all kinds of projects on it with too many different systems open at the time... and I don't want any fault codes. ( )

 

[GLASMITHS]

UPDATE

Keeping in mind that it takes 7 (seven) days for the Noise Killer to fully dry, and the noise damping to be 100%, I really havn't taken any accurate measurements. Am leaving early tomorrow on a 1000 mi round trip; and know it is going to be quiter . And not because I left my wife at home . The sound appears to be 2-3 and towards rear wall about 4 db less; but it is muffled; no loud clatter. I ran it in 3rd at 2800 rpm today and it is not all that bad. And I do have a lot more to do. Doors, firewall and hood.



Talking hood. My feeling is not to put the foam on hood because of weight. I may order some more NK and do the hood and doors. This is where this comes in good. Low weight and a good dampening effect. Then cover with Dynamat or the like.



This Noise Killer gets about like morter. Better mask off the bolts that stick up. Much grief if you don't .



Later



george

 

[tbaca]

John,



Where did you purchase your ATP oil pan cover?



_____

/ony

 

[John]

Here ya go...

www.atpwrap.com/dodge_ram.htm

 

[crobertson1]

GLASMITHS,

Could you give an update as to how much quieter your truck is now? Did the NK do the trick for ya? Thanks.

Craig

 

[GLASMITHS]

The db level dropped from 3-4, 4 from the rear. I also put 2 layers of 1/2" foam over that later. This is inside the cab, minus doors. Recently I put a layer of dynamat under hood, and finished wrapping the exhaust from turbo to muffler; and, listen to this. Put a layer of 1/2" UNDER the cab, from engine to back of transmission. This made the largest drop in perception, anyway, than any other. The reason for this was last summer, due to the quiteness I ran in 3rd direct through WV mountains at about 2800 rpm and the floor got a little warm.



Won't know if it makes a difference until next summer However, the sound perception is much lower. Like a lower tone.

The exhaust at the rear is somewhat hotter because of the wrap. Hope it doesn't gut the muffler Then I could justify some stacks

 

[crobertson1]

Thanks for the update. I've been reading these noise reduction threads for hours now! I may be talking myself into a NR project.

Craig

 

[GLASMITHS]

Originally posted by crobertson1

Thanks for the update. I've been reading these noise reduction threads for hours now! I may be talking myself into a NR project.

Craig

If I had to do it again I'd leave one layer off in the inside, except for rear wall, and put it under the cab. I don't worry about it coming off, especially if you use the solvent glue. I used this years ago on a church bus for a heat barrier under hood.

Firewall back to behind driver. Drove throuh water several times up to the floor and no problem. Oh, purchase your alumin tape from Home Depot, Not jcw. Its cheaper and better. Better glue and thicker. Makes a neat installation. No seams

 

[Steve Campbell]

Glasmith....

I can't seem to figure out what the ... . "liquid Noise Killer "... . is by your postings! Would you do that aspect again?



Are you concerned about rust developing on the underside of the truck from your treatment down there?

 

[GLASMITHS]

Re: Glasmith....

Originally posted by Steve Campbell

I can't seem to figure out what the ... . "liquid Noise Killer "... . is by your postings! Would you do that aspect again?



Are you concerned about rust developing on the underside of the truck from your treatment down there?

You really need to read all the threads on this subject. But, the liquid noise killer, is just that. I don't have the link, but try a search for Noise Killer. Try www.memtechacoustical.com maybe that is it. They claim, and demonstrate that it is very effective. It becomes part of the metal, which is, via the cement, what the lead also does. This adds bulk and cuts down on the vibration of the metal; and that is what noise is.



The reason for putting it UNDER the cab - If you can keep the floor from getting hot to begin with, then it will not transmit that heat to the inside. The insulation in the cab is to insulate against an already hot floor. No i'm not worried about rust It made a big difference in the sound, time will tell on the heat. The cost of the liquid noise killer is about $55. 00 for a gallon, enough for the inside of the cab and doors. I would also put a layer of the 1/2" foam with vinayl barrier on top of the Noise killer. The foam is about the same price as Noise Killer in area.