North to Alaska

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This next summer, I plan to head up to Alaska. I have a couple of questions for those who have been or live there.



When is the best time to head up to avoid the mosquitos, No-see-ems, et al?



When is it likely to get the weather making RVing less than fun?



Have you any recommendations on anything relating to a fun, safe, trouble free trip? Oh, I am aware of the peculiarities of Canadian customs. I don't drink (anymore), smoke or "pack" and my dog will have current rabies shots. I have a Milepost book for most of the above questions but respect personal information even more.



I will be driving my '99 CTD with a camper. My daughter and son-in-law may be accompanying me in their Tundra and camp trailer.
 
Utah Willie,

I can't remember all the particulars but I think you need more than a paper for rabies for your dog. The time to miss the mosquitoes, very early spring, very late fall and WINTER. The best time to RV is late spring early summer. The best time to miss all the other visitors, the day after labour day.

No see-ums are usually late fall after the first hard frost. Fairbanks and it's history in the gold industry is fascinating. Lots of gold dredges to see. They are unique! Valdez for the fishing and the oil line terminal. Seward for fishing, Homer for fishing and the view. It's to kill for. Anchorage is a small city compaired with the lower 48 but has big city problems. Palmer is great for agraculture, was established by the government after WWII. There is just to much to describe. Rafting in the Denali park, flight seeing, just plain ole touring.

If you want more just ask

WD
 
Time to avoid the bugs is right now. They don't like negative temps. If you come in the spring the mosquitos are bigger than the ones in later summer. They are also slower so its a bit easier to get em.



What do you want to see or do? WD hit some of the good fishing spots. Soldotna & the Kenai River is good for world class King salmon fishing + the river is a beautiful emerald green. If you come early there won't be much for fishing. Salmon doesn't get going until June, Silvers in the fall. Pike & lake trout are good all spring and summer.



The Southeast part of the state is worth a visit. Juneau, our state capital city is a nice place. Other than it rains 70% of the time in the Southeast. I did that trip last summer (now I've been to every region of this state).



If you like adventure you could run up the Haul Road. 500 miles (out of Fairbanks) to the top of Alaska where the pipeline starts. Takes you thru some great country.



I'd have to say the best way to see Alaska without 4000 other people next to you is to go flight seeing. (I'm biased since I'm a pilot) Either way you should drop us a line when you hit town.
 
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Utah,



Everything WD said, I used to live up in AK to, you will LOVE IT!



As far as getting into Canada, they are real anal about passed convictions, like LITTERING. I have seen guys not allowed in for traffic violations dating from the late 60's, like running a stop sign. Don't laugh, I personally know the guy. Another guy I worked with was busted for shoplifting when he was in his teens, now in his late 30's, wouldn't let him in either. With all of the terrorism crap going on, they racially profile us guys for background checks, because we are easy to pull records on. They have access to our DMV and court records up there. I used to cross into Canada five days a week for years in a truck.



You might want to look at the car ferry that sails out of Portland or Seattle to AK.



Your best bet to physically cross into Canada, would be to obtain a US Passport, and you will need ALL of the shot records for your dog, and sometimes a note from the vet, stating that the dog has a clean bill of health. And some breeds are not even allowed in, you might want to do some research on that. And then all of the above will depend on the Canandian Customs agent you run up against. My advice, if there is anything, even the most minor thing, you may not get into Canada. You can get pre-clearance if there is anything haunting you from your "date of birth". You will need to contact a Canadian Council/Embassy and speak with the Minister of Immigration. It may take up to 6 mos and roughly $500-1000. 00 to receive clearance.



The only reason I am letting you know all of this is because you stated, "I don't drink (anymore), smoke or "pack"". Trust me, these guys have access to more info about yourself then even you know.



If none of this applies to you or anyone in your party, I do apologize for insinuating that there might be something in your past. I have had first hand expierience with Canadian Customs, nit picky doesn't even come close to explaining them or their motives.



Mike
 
Thank you all for the info. As to the transit through Canada, there is apparently little to fear as both the pooch and I went through two years ago on my fifth wheel trip to the Yukon. At that time, I did have too much booze on board and lost a 1. 75 liter of cheap vodka. What did surprise me was that they left my magnum canister of bear repellent (pepper spray) that was in plain sight in a front cup holder. As to the bugs, I guess a drum of DEET will do.....



I hope to get on the road in May after my spring trip to Lake Powell and back in time for the fall trip..... so May through mid-August may do.



The flight-seeing is a great idea... . I will definitly look into that, in fact, any info that you guys can supply would also be appreciated.



I am also looking into the ferry as a return trip.
 
The times I've been into Canada they have nabbed my bear pepper spray. Then I have to buy a new can once in. That is except for the one time I inadvertantly lied to them and the one time I purposely lied to them :rolleyes: bad boy.



If you don't mind I would like to hitch on to this thread because I will be heading for Anchorage in September and coming back in early October. I will be at the 8th World Wilderness Congress from 9/27 through 10/6. I was wondering about Anchorage specifically. But I am also interested in any info you are passing along to Utah Willie - so I hope this is not regarded as a hijack.



If my wife is along I will be bring the overhead camper. If not, its the "shack" and moving stealthly over the landscape as opposed to lumbering about (or aboot for those north of the border)



I will have my border collies with me and typically like to stay at a motel on the edge of town where I can take my dogs for a walk. I plan on kenneling them during the day meetings. (This is a company trip so there are paying for the lodging otherwise I'd be camping :) ).



However, I may also be interested in staying at a campground or KOA type set up and having the company defray fuel costs. Any suggestions on campgrounds or KOAs? Is Anchorage big and intimidating - frankly I'm a scaredy cat when it comes to bustling metropolises. The congress is at the William A. Egan Civic & Convention Center. Right now I'm booked at the Comfort Inn on Ship Avenue. Whats this area like?



The main reason I'm driving up is I want to take the opportunity and see some of AK. That way I too can become an AK expert. :-laf



TIA.
 
Traildog, in my opinion Anchorage is one of the easiest cities to navigate in. Several main streets and almost impossible to get lost. I'd suggest getting a city map and studying it ahead of time. I have some friends that live there so let me know if you'd like their names, etc. Always nice to have someone to call if you have problems. Even though a righteous gentleman like yourself would never think of going there, the Great Alaskan Bush Company is worth seeing!!!
 
Ol'TrailDog,

If you stay at Motel 8 they allow dogs for a 25 dollar deposit. It's bout 2 or 3 miles from the Egan center. Just down one of the main accesses and your there. Real easy. Pepper spray; just seasoning for the bears main course... . YOU. Probably the best time to come. Some fishing left and all the visitors will be mostly gone. Can be the rainy time of the year too. Was born and raised in Anchorage. Anchor town sucks. California's northern most city. Way, way to much traffic. There is about 360K worth of people in Anchorage. Wy is the only state with less people in it than us. About 3/5ths of Alaska live in Anchorage. Great place if you like to fly. More small aircraft in Anchorage and Wasilla than almost all of the US combined. Not many KOA's in Alaska. Only one I know of is in Healy. About 100 or so miles out of Fairbanks.

UtahWillie,

May to mis Aug is a great time cause all the fish are in. But... . get your Ferry reservations as soon as possible. They can be very hard to get. The ferry is great if you don't take a vehicle cause you can schedule it so you can get off at other places to sightsee. A great way to see the southeast which is probably the prettest of Alaska. You can just camp out on deck behind seats and not even bother with a stateroom. Done it many times. But it can be expensive with a vehicle. If you drive, as you dip in and out of Canada and Alaska, you can drive to Haynes, which by the way is where you catch the ferry. When you drive, about the best place to get diesel fuel will be Morley river. They are a truck stop. Have showers and food and mechanical services. Morley river is in between BC and the Yukon. You dip in and out and there it is.

If you guys need any thing just write back or PM myself, cummins pilot or anyone else from up here. If you make Fairbanks, look me and cummins pilot up.

WD
 
Personally I brought my shotgun thru Canada, bear spray is useless. Its about 45 bucks for the permit to carry one thru. When I did it I didn't have any hassles.



WD, I thought ANC was the outer reaches of Seattle. (born and raised there also)
 
The bear spray was more for predators of the human species, but the guy I bought it from guaranteed it would repel a bear... . if not, I could bring it back for a refund on the unused portion... ;-)



The ferry reservations may be my biggest problem for scheduling. I am terrible at schedules. I seem to be too impulsive. Heck, I might even buy a home there. I am in Florida right now and it is too crowded here... ... . and too @#$%^ flat



I doubt that I'll do much fishing but wouldn't rule it out. I am interested in Cummins pilot's suggestion of taking a flight. I know my daughter will jump at that chance. I also am considering a flight out to the Kodiak area. Too many choices... too little time.
 
Thanks for all the good advice and suggestions. I'm working on renewing my Passport for Canada. I will get the dogs clean bill of health records. I've got some maps printed off. My reservations are made. I figure I can change places if when I get there and find a better place or hear of a better place (I'll check out the Motel 8 for sure) Man, this is weird - I'm so excited I'm actually doing things well in advance :rolleyes:



As far as bear spray goes the stats say agressive bears have been dissuaded 80% of the time bear spray was used and 50% of the time a weapon was used. However, it is strongly recommended to have two sources of deterent. I favor pepper spray AND a firearm (380 mag or 12 ga). I am doing the paperwork and lobbying hard for folks here to have the ability to carry a firearm in additon to bear spray.
 
Ol'TrailDog,



That Motel 8 was pretty nice when I was there. Real close to everything and cheaper then staying down town. And if you are worried about the wild life, bring the biggest gun you own! And watch out for the bull moose, just as mean, or meaner then momma bear and her cubs.



Mike
 
I'll check on reservations at the 8 tomorrow. Sounds like a better deal than were I'm booked now.



I've worked in the backcountry around moose many moons and I know how cantankerous they can be. I remember once upon a time when I was working in the "Bog Marshes" wilderness in MT my dobie brought a PO momma moose back on the run, the only thing that saved my buddy was he was going around and around the airstrip tractor - yeesh. There was also a picture posted at Schaeffer Meadows of the Fire Control officer in mid-air swinging a bridle at a cow who was striking with both feet off the ground and ears laid back. He lost. The only thing that saved him was he rolled up against the blacksmith shop and minimized the damage. His back was so messed up he ended up having to quit the FS after years of reoccurring back pain.



I liked Cummins Pilot's suggestion about the $45 bucks to bring my 12ga along also. Did you get the permit in advance or at the border? Again thanks for the good advice.
 
I got it at the border. But the lady was not pleased that I didn't get one ahead of time. I didn't know I needed one for a shotgun (my fault for not checking I guess). All in all it wasn't that bad.
 
My young female German Shepherd and I made the trip in May and June of this year pulling a 32' Avion conventional travel trailer. We left home about May 1st and returned home by mid-June. It was a perfect time to go in my opinion. We were ahead of the bugs and the most of the other tourists. The nights were cool, as low as the 30s one night in Prince George, BC, but overnight lows were mostly in the low 40s. We drove 11,651 miles and experienced only one problem. The left rear trailer tire was punctured, probably by a chunk of steel broken off a road plow blade, on a dirt section of the Cassiar. I noticed the soft tire before it deflated, installed the spare, and had the original tire repaired at the next town and reinstalled it. I didn't even suffer a rock chip on the paint or windshield. The highways were fine. I think I traveled a total of about 200 miles, maybe 250 on dirt and gravel. The rest was paved. The trip was a great experience and I highly recommend everyone see Canada and Alaska. When traveling on gravel, 99. 9% of oncoming drivers would slow to 5mph as I did when meeting then resume speed after passing. For my next major adventure I'm going to go back to Saskatchewan where I left Canada and turn right and cross all of Canada to Halifax, NS.



The only identification I carried and showed was a retired military ID card and my driver's license, both of which contain photos. A passport was not necessary. A friend suggested carrying my voter registration but I was already in Walla Walla, WA so it was too late to take it. I took a computer-generated statement signed by my veterinarian that stated my dog was in good health and her vaccinations were current. I carried no liquor, tobacco products, or weapons of any kind. The only time my trailer was inspected was by the US Customs at the reentry point on US 85, north of Fortuna, ND. (Fruit and beef are a concern so avoid carrying either when crossing borders. ) The road leading to the last US Customs on the Canadian side was literally a dirt road. It was such an obscure border crossing I think US Customs thought I was a smuggler.



We left the US going north at Sumas, WA. We took side trips into Alaska at Scagway and Haines northbound and Hyder, AK off the Cassiar Highway southbound. We visited Valdez, Seward, Homer, Anchorage, and Fairbanks. Northbound we traveled the Alaska Highway. On the return trip we detoured north through Chicken and Dawson and then traveled south via the Cassiar Highway. We didn't try the haul road. The thought of 800 to 1000 miles roundtrip of rutted road and gravel was not enticing. The scenery was breathtaking throughout the entire journey and we saw lots of wildlife along the highways. On our return trip we ventured east through Alberta and Saskatchewan finally reentering the US in North Dakota. This allowed me to see more of Canada.



The "Milepost" travel guide warns travelers that sleeping overnight in "turnouts" or "pullouts" alongside the highways is not permitted but I did it all the way northbound and southbound through British Columbia, Yukon Territory, and in Alaska. A RCMP car passed by as I "made camp" alongside rushing rivers beside the highway several times and never even gave us a second look. I suspect the law is not enforced except for troublemakers and abusers of the privilege. It may be enforced later in the travel season as the numbers of RVers multiply. We "camped" at Wal-Marts in Dawson Creek and Whitehorse, Yukon, at a truckstop in Prince George, BC northbound and southbound, just outside the gate at the huge Alyeska oil pumping station at Valdez where the Exxon Valdez fueled before running aground departing, at various road side rest stops in Alaska, at a shopping center with other RVers in Alberta, another truckstop in Saskatchewan, and so on. The only nights we spent in RV parks were on the US Army posts in Fairbanks, Anchorage, and Seward. Food and supplies are readily available anywhere along the trip. Fuel was clean and readily available, only a little more expensive than in the US but by the time you convert from liters per CN dollar back to gallons per US dollar it was not a significant difference, certainly not enough to discourage anyone from going.



I changed my engine oil and filter twice and my fuel filter once during the trip. The first time at the Wal-Mart at Dawson Creek. The kid in the TLE was clueless so I changed it myself and instructed him. Wal-Mart didn't even charge me. The second time was done (without spilling a drop) at a roadside park along the Cassiar Highway where we spent a night.



The highways through BC, YT, AB, and SK ranged from excellent, same as the US, to adequate for slow travel during the last day of travel in YT before entering Alaska. Every mile of road on the entire trip was better than I-40 through Oklahoma City. Each day we traveled farther north, we experienced more and more severe frost heaves. Speed limits are a little lower in Canada but we averaged 45 mph until the last day of travel before entering Alaska. Frost heaves slowed us to an average of probably 25-30 mph that day.



Every single Canadian customs official I encountered was friendly, pleasant, and welcoming. I was told by an RVing couple from Yukon that BC learned several years ago that US tourists were avoiding BC due to customs hassles. Someone must have given them an attitude reset because they were very polite to me. It appeared to me that all US Customs officials have a database

of state registrations and probably driver licenses. I say that because as I approached each station I was required to stop a few yards away. Customs officials seemed to be keying in the number from my front license plate. I also had the impression they were matching my name (and address) from my military id and driver license to the plate. That is my opinion, not necessarily accurate.



Canadian citizens were very friendly and helpful throughout my entire journey. I talked to lots of them along the way. My young dog loved the trip also. She got to run and play with strange new dogs in lots of city parks. We spent several days in Whitehorse, YT and visited the city park there every day. My dog ran and played with all sorts of dogs, even a huge male half-wolf, half-German Shepherd.



I changed US dollars to CN dollars at a local bank in BC. I used CN dollars throughout. I used a US calling card to call home each evening. My cell phone didn't work in Canada.



If I had to summarize the trip in only one phrase I might say it was the trip of a lifetime (and I've been traveling since I entered the Navy at age 17). If you have the opportunity to go, GO!



If I can answer any specific questions I'll be happy to help.



Harvey
 
Make sure when you apply for your permit at the Canadian border for your weapon that you have some paper saying it's yours. I had to turn around and go back into the US and stop at the customs office and get them to certify that it was my weapon and then go back through the line again to get into Canada. Took about an hour of my day and I had a trailer full of horses. I had more trouble with my rifle than I did with two horses, two cats, and a dog. They didn't even look at the health records I paid upwards of 600$ for. They also couldn't believe that I had no alcohol or tobacco. They kept asking the same questions over and over to get me to slip up. I will second the post about past convictions. I have a friend whose uncle wanted to come to Alaska with him when he drove up. The uncle had a felony conviction that was almost 20 years old. They stopped them at the border and since he hesitated when answering a question about firearms, he had a bb gun, they did the works on them. Full background checks and would not let the uncle into Canada. He had to turn around and go back 50 miles to the nearest train station to drop him off. They were waiting for him the next day to see if he had any stowaways. Make sure you make reservations well in advance to make sure you aren't camping out.



Travis
 
Wow, keep the great info coming. Really enjoy the tips and experiences. :)



I've had two experiences at the border. Usually, I'm with a boat load of Koreans (my wifes relatives) and they always give us the "Why this white dude smuggling Asians into Canada" look :-laf



I almost created an international incident on one trip. I had bear spray and surrendered it at the border knowing I was coming back that way. One the way back I DROVE THROUGH the border crossing without STOPPING, hooked a U-turn, parked in the same area where I had on the way up, and hopped out of the truck. Well, sirens were blaring and folks were running out of the doors and hollering at me. Oops, my bad. Since it was too late to put the whole scene in reverse, I decided there was no sense in getting worked up over it and just said I'm here to pick up my bear spray. Yeh, I suppose I should have stopped on the other side, but here's where I parked last time and I thought it would be a good place to park this time too, so folks there is no sense getting worked up into a tizzy. . Unfortunately, they didn't exactly see it that way. Of course my wife and her family are in the truck wondering what the hay is going on and not understanding much of what is being said, gulp. Finally, I get my bear spray, but not without much ado, and we depart back into the good ol' US of A.



Of course, it took a number of miles for my wife to start loving me once again :rolleyes: :-laf
 
Hey while your up here come on over to Kodiak. Its a 16 hour ferry trip from Seward or Homer but the fishing is great. All the major rivers have either pink, sliver or red salmon in them. ou can take a flight seeing trip for sheep, deer and Kodiak brown bear. If you are lucky you may even see ont eating salmon from the local rivers. We have a couple of campgrounds outside of town but a Walmart in town for those in town camping nights.



Have fun on your trip



Dawna
 
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