Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) NV4500 Cant Handle It

[CTD12V]

Bummer

I would say remember the 4500 was designed for less than 500 lbs of torque. I think any over that, and we're pushing our luck anyway. I'm not sure the 5600 is that much better.

Shoot, I hadn't heard that before. :{ Where would those specs be listed?



Thanks,



CTD12V

 

[DTroy]

Rated Gross Vehicle Weight... ... ... ... ... ... . HD: 16,000 pounds, LD: 15,000 pounds

Rated Gross Combined Weight... ... ... ... ... HD: 21,000 pounds, LD: 19,000 pounds

Torque Rating... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ..... HD: 460 lb. -ft. LD: 410 lb. -ft







And I didn't forget about the pics. I'm having technical difficulties.

 

[DTroy]

*NV4500HD models are used with Cummins Diesel & V10. NV4500LD models are used for all other applications.

 

[DBogo]

theres quite a few people with over 500tq running through them without problems though right?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

yeah, I was running 950ftlbs through mine... but it only had 245k miles on it

 

[DTroy]

"only"

 

[Turbo Thom]

Yeah, and I had 1050 through mine, for a while. Guess what happened. I guess it's all in how you drive.

 

[John Prince]

I to have the hard to shift from a stand still to gear while running somtimes. It started after rebuild and new clutch. It just does it now and then but a real PITA. If you shut it down it will go into gear just fine. I have changed the clucth slave. Next I was going to try the clutch master cyl. I thought the new weight from a new centerforce clutch it might have not be getting the open power needed from the old stuff. I put new rings and the up dated 5th nut on mine when I put a new clutch in. I have been dealing with this for 25,000 miles.

Any ideas? HELP.

John

 

[Highfinance97]

John Prince I too now have a hard time from a dead stop, it was fine untill i changed the the O/D Clutch gear i know i put it back together right.

Also it now has a slight grind in 5th and its somtimes hard to downshift if it goes in at all



Michael

 

[Willie G]

I rebuilt mine over a year ago. It worked great for 10,000 miles, now it grinds going into 3rd. Since my job has me working long hours, I had a local shop replace the rear main seal for me and look at the clutch. Their stupid answer was "Why do you need to downshift into third anyway?". Also, when I shimmed the transmission to the book specs, I did not realize that after a few miles of excess torque these clearances will open up. Charlie at Standard Transmission recommends that I pull the transmission and re-shim it.

 

[DTroy]

Just out of curiosity, what were you're initial clearances?

 

[Willie G]

I do not remember my initial clearances. I shimmed to the recommended 0. 001 (I think) inch endplay. I did not need any thick shims after putting new bearings in. I think these cases get distorted from the torque and causes some of these problems. I need to update my signature to show the #10 fuel plate, 3000 rpm governor springs, and ATS exhaust manifold.

 

[DTroy]

Is the third gear grind your only trouble with it?



I'm just trying to narrow things down.

 

[Willie G]

It is difficult to get it into 1st (low) gear. Under hard acceleration the transmission has a loose, rattling sound to it. According to Charlie at Standard Transmission, it sounds like there is too much end play. He told me to use a large rubber mallet to seat the bearings when adjusting the end play.

 

[NBowlin]

slightly off topic, but here is something else that is a little wierd with these



I put the larger input in mine, and it was improperly machined and had the thing so bound up we had to put shims on the input shaft bearing retainer deal. the lesson i learned from that is that there are short input, perfect, and long..... a transmission that hasnt been rebuilt and has some miles on it will like the longer one, and the newer will like the shorter one. thats what i was told and when the short one came it worked well.



as far as that road ranger transmission goes i dont know it looks like it would work well, but i have no idea as to feasability.

 

[DTroy]

I can understand why he would mention a rubber mallet.



When you bolt the retaining plate on and then check the end play, it might be just fine. It fooled me the first time.



But if you spin the shaft a few times, then pry up with a pry bar (very carefully) you will find out that the clearance really opened up.

I did both shafts more than once. I wanted to get it perfect.



They call for . 002-. 006" I shimmed until it barely made . 002



I would recommend a quality dial indicator (ten thousandths would be ideal, but not necessary) and a rock solid mount. I didn't use the magnetic base, I used the clamp. I have a Snap-On kit.



If you turn the transmission so that the shafts are vertical it will give you better/easier results.

 

[Willie G]

I should have used a pry bar. I did have it mounted vertically but, instead of using a pry bar, I rotated the shafts and pulled them fore and aft by hand. Maybe I over estimated my strength!

 

[DTroy]

They don't give you much leeway do they?



I would recommend overfilling as well.



Normally I wouldn't do that, but I had two transmission builders tell me that the third gear blocking ring is the most susceptible to oil starvation during hard acceleration. Especially if the level is even slightly low. Not to mention that the third synchro usually gets the most usage.

 

[Willie G]

I will try over filling it. I am going to pull the transmission out to re-shim it. The only problem I really have is finding a place to do it.

 

[DTroy]

I hear ya. I was laying on the ground putting mine back in last winter. Snow all around. Must have rocks in my head.



You don't have your location listed. (unless you'd rather not mention)