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off idle stubble

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New Injectors, Poor Fuel Mileage

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I recently finally found the truck i was looking for to use as my sunday driver since my 96 is getting as bit rough,,it's a 2007 3500 black dually Megacab 4x4,,,the truck already had some good stuff on it,,like the MBRP dual exhaust,,,AFE big filter,,Fass fuel system,,but NO PROGRAMER,,,but i suspect it may have had one at one time,,although the exhaust manifold is not drilled for an EGT probe so i'm not sure if it had gauges,,
The problem is a drivability issue,,off idlee from a stop,,the truck stubbles a bit and i can see a bit of black smoke,,i would say it seems like a rich running condition,,,since i can tell what if any programming was put into the stock ECM i'm not sure where it's at,,,should i go to the dealership to get the ECM reflashed,,i have a relative that works at a dealership so i fell a bit better letting a dealer near my truck,,if anybody has any idea what the stubble could be from,,i'm not getting an engine light,,i dont want to get a reflash if it's not going to help,,,but is there a way to get the ECM back to original programming,,
Hopefully someone on here will be able to help..TDR has been great over the years when working on my old 12v 96,,,which still runs great after 600,000,,
 
Does the truck have a 5.9L or the 6.7L engine installed? If the truck has the 6.7L look underneath for the DPF/NOX and catalyst filters attached to the exhaust system. The engine will also have a stock EGR cooler on the passenger side with a cross over tube going to the inlet manifold. If these were removed and there is no programmer/program installed in the ECM on the truck than the truck will throw codes and be in limp mode. Some users remove this when they sell and the newbie is in trouble without the programmer/program to make the truck run correctly.

I think the dealer can re-flash and you can than install a programmer such as EFILIVE to make the truck run correct without the emission components on the truck.

Jim
 
Hi
Thanks for the response,,the truck has a 5.9,,took me a long time to find one,,all the 07 megacab that i saw for sale had 6.7 which i definitely did not want,,,last thing i wanted was more electronic garbage and pollution crap,,amd my other 5.9's went 600,000 and 1 million with no issues,,,with these newer trucks it's one electronic component failure after another...i will also be looking into removing this crappy common rail engine and putting a reliable 12v,P-Pumped motor backed by a 47RH trans,,,now that would make the ultimate truck,,
 
Actually these pre 07.5 5.9 are the hot setup no smog other than the Cat and the internal EGR and they are quieter. 48 RE a bit stouter than the 47 .
 
i do like the truck,,but the 12valve P-Pumped motor is so much better and way more reliable,,the 47RH doe it's all hydraulic first to third,,,unlike the RE with it's electronic crap.. my old 96 never has any of these issues,,and injectors are tough and cheap,,,mechanical lift pump is nearly bullet proof,,but i have emmisions testing here do i have to work around that,,that stumble is annoying,,,but on a 12 valve,,,i'd have that diagnosed and fixed in a minute,,LOL
 
I know in the US you can not legally install an engine older than the Model year of the truck. If the vehicle is going to be operated on highway/city roadways. Most US states do not really check except where emission testing is required; than they got you.

Now what are the legal requirements in Ontario CD for engine swaps and emission testing?

Jim
 
you can get away with a lot if you know how,,LOL..if i take the time to build a megacab 12 valve it will never be for sale,it would be the ultimate travelling rig..
 
Since it has stubble maybe it just needs a shave? :)

If you are seeing black smoke it is fueling too much or not enough air. Air filter, fuel filter, MAP sensor, FCA can all cause that.
 
the truck has the big AFE filter,,and i did clean and reoil properly and let it sit a day before installing,,,still have that off idle stumbling with a bit of black smoke,,i also asume a rich off idle condition,,but what could be causing it,,any idea what my step should be,,??
 
Have your relative that works at the dealership perform a reflash on the ECM, then perform and injector kill test and a cylinder contribution test. They are quick tests to aid in checking the health of the injectors. In injector replacement might be in order, but on the other hand it might be as simple as replacing the FCA.
 
i thought about getting a re-flash,,but i remember some people saying there are certain that should not be done,,which version re flash should i be looking for,,,is there a way to test the FCA,,,,also,,i dosed it pretty good with Diesel Power service grey bottle,,didnt make much difference,,,i will not be putting $3500.00 worth on injectors in this thing,,i hardly ever drive it other than for bringing the girlfriend and the kids places,,,maybe once every 2 weeks,,,,i prefer driving my 96 12valve dually.. so much nicer in drivability,,,my best wishes would be to put a 12 valve in the megacab for the ultimate driving rig,,,but emmission testing here in Ottawa is a problem i have to work around,,i have an electrical and mechanical engineer friend that might be able to help with a program to pass emmisions,,,but if i can fix my problem with the common rail engine i would just leave it as is,, hopefully i can figure out the issue,,,with all the electronic garbage on new diesel,,,that's getting harder and harder,,
 
I don't think there is a sure way to determine if the pintle inside the FCA is sticking. I have read that some people try to remove it then shake it. If the pintle rattles, it is good....I don't believe that to be an accurate method. Replacing the FCA might be a $150 gamble.
The dealer should only use the latest reflash software, and since your truck is a 2007, the truck probably had the most current flash program.
Is your engine oil level getting higher, from an injector dumping fuel into it?.

I once drove my Truck to Toronto, and while I was at a stoplight, the idle was terrible. It felt fine while driving, but the at stop signs and stop lights, it was bad. I took the gamble and replaced my FCA, and I was thankful that everything was back to normal after that.

Since you have a connection to a dealership, they might run an injector kill test and a cylinder contribution test for free. I would check that option first.
 
tried the oil,,no difference,,,have to wait for someone who knows these trucks to come look at it,,before starting to throw parts at,,,i have been talking to a guy who P-Pumps the common rail engine,,he's doing a 6.7 right now,,i'd love to have the same reliable P-Pump as my 96,,,that would be the second best choice next to having an actuall good old 12 valve motor in there,,
 
well..i had the truck scanned today,,and it seems injector number 1 is dead at idle,,but fine after that,,not sure what would cause that,,,also was suggested i take the truck to get reflashed to the latest specs and program,,hopefully that will do something,,
 
well..i had the truck scanned today,,and it seems injector number 1 is dead at idle,,but fine after that,,not sure what would cause that,,,also was suggested i take the truck to get reflashed to the latest specs and program,,hopefully that will do something,,

Beter go beyond just scanning to determine an injector has failed
 
Could be the valve cover gasket. It has the wiring to the injector in it. Check the Injector with a meter it should read 0 or 1 ohm, any more it needs to be replaced.
 
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