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Oil change tip

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another new victim with questions

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I got a tip from a lifetime trucker friend of mine that I tough TDR members might be interested in trying. I just did and it work for me.



I was discussing oil change with him and I mentioned that because of the filter location and this being the time I'd ever done it on a Cummins, it might get messy but I'd read on this site the freezer back trick and was going to give it a try. In his ol' Texas boy drawl here is the answer I got "That's Bulls**t!"



He went on to say that all I had to do was get the oil hot, loosen the plug so the oil will drain but don't take it completely out, remove the filler cap from the valve cover and loossen the filter with the strap wrench to the point that I could turn it by hand and then go have a beer or two while the oil drained... ... .



"When you get back, remove the plug to make sure all the oil has drained. Enough oil should have gotten sucked out of the filter so you can remove it without no bag or gloves and without spilling a drop, works 9 time out of 10", he said. How about the one time that it doesn't, I asked? "Sucks to be you" was the answer!



Well it did work. About 1/4 of the oil was out of the filter and that allowded me to tilt it and get it out , no mess. Have any of you ever heard of that trick? As I said that was the first one for me and it worked like a charm. If some you of try it, I'd like to know how it turned out. Maybe the old man is on to something, but blame it on him if you make a mess:eek: :eek: !



Rotella and Fleetguard strat. in case your wondering... . :D



BFC
 
I never had to do all that, just make sure the truck was at operating temp, shutdown and wait 45 minutes and take the filter off. I never had a problem with it overflowing, never needed a bag.
 
I guess waiting the 45 min would do it too. I had read so much about the oil filter making a mess, I was all worried(my boss is letting me use the airplane hangar as my garage, didn't want to create a problem) since I'm new at this game, first truck. Worked on all my cars but filter is under the car most of the time. Not to worry, won't be the last time I prove I'm an idiot regarding diesel trucks maintenance... ... ... ... ... ... . :rolleyes: :rolleyes: But I did manage to change the oil/filter and replace the fuel filter without creating an enviromental emergency, so it's all good. Thanks to all who posted tips and bear with new guys like me!!:p
 
Another tip!

Well, I changed my filter this weekend and topped off the Delvac 1. While the filter was off, I disconnected the three wires (block heater, A/C Freon temp (?), and A/C compressor). Then I re-routed them so that they're not sitting right under the filter - this helped alot and the wires should get as nasty this way.
 
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I've never had an oil mess because I let it drain overnight in my garage. The baggie is probably a good idea if you have no garage and have to do the job in your driveway.
 
I didnt even need to wait that long. I started to drain the pan, set all of my stuff up to do the job. And loosened it up worked smooth. I did remove the air hose off of the turbo and filter box so it was easy to get in there to manuever.
 
What in the world are you guys using to get the old filter off? Did my first non-dealer one this past weekend and the cursing must have made the neighbors think Ray has finally lost it.



Tried a strap-wrench that is driven by a 1/2" ratchet..... did nothing except start to cave in the filter body. Tried a filter wrench (with teeth) and could not manipulate it around the plumbing. Tried the "jar opener" type from the bottom and it would not maintain a grip.



I finally drilled out one of the rivets from the tooth-type filter wrench so that the "circle" was open, manipulated the wrench around the top of the filter, hooked the two ends together with a long nail, and got it off that way. Grin, I now have a new tool.



It felt good finally getting the thing loose :D and a couple of beers got rid of the frustration. What did I do wrong?
 
Ray J, you had a very hard time, I'm glad that wasn't me... that was my worst nightmare, getting the filter damaged and then not being able to get it off.



I did my first Oil Change Saturday (July 21). Never felt so good about an oil change in my life. Felt like I had really accomplished something. I've heard so many stories about how hard it is to change the oil, about how hard the oil filer is to get off, and I will say, if I hadn't been reading and listening to what was being said on TDR, I would have been in a bad way.



I have 1,426 mi on my truck, purchased a "strap wrench" from Sears, as was recommended on TDR. It was tight, REAL tight. At one point the strap wrench was slipping so bad I didn't think I was going to get it off. Finally, after re-applying the grip, it was still slipping, but the oil filter was moving about 1/8 of an inch at a time. It finally came loose, but I really had to work hard. When I put the new filter back on, I got it as tight as I could with my hands but I did not use the wrench to tighten it. It's been about 100 mi and it seems to be fine.



The method of putting the Zip Lock baggie (Large) around the oil filter worked great. I like the added protection of knowing nothing will spill as I keep my engine compartment looking as good as the exterior of my truck.



Tip: I am ordering a "an EZ Change Drain Plug w/Tube" for the next oil change.



Bob
 
What tool?

I use a Craftman (Sears) rubber strap wrench. They have 2 sizes, the small one fits just nice in the hole. Works good so far.
 
The easiest way to do it doesn't usually require you to buy a tool at all. I use a large screw driver (about 18" long) and a hammer. Just put the end of the screw driver on the upper rim of the filter (really easy to get to) and hit it with the hammer like a chisel. That will break it loose no matter how tight the thing is. No bloody knuckles. No shorting out the hot wire on the alternator. No extra muscle needed. I also remove the air cleaner to do the job.
 
Originally posted by SixPac

Ray J, you had a very hard time, I'm glad that wasn't me... that was my worst nightmare, getting the filter damaged and then not being able to get it off.



put the new filter back on, I got it as tight as I could with my hands but I did not use the wrench to tighten it. It's been about 100 mi and it seems to be fine.





Bob



That's what I did also... ... . hand-tightened only, but very hard. Checked it yesterday and today... ... no leaks of any type.
 
Originally posted by Joe G.

The easiest way to do it doesn't usually require you to buy a tool at all. I use a large screw driver (about 18" long) and a hammer. Just put the end of the screw driver on the upper rim of the filter (really easy to get to) and hit it with the hammer like a chisel. That will break it loose no matter how tight the thing is. No bloody knuckles. No shorting out the hot wire on the alternator. No extra muscle needed. I also remove the air cleaner to do the job.



I tried that also Joe... ... . but did not remove the air cleaner when I was trying it. I think the next one will go much easier now that I have that "modified" wrench. :p The "broken circle" is pretty easy to get around the top of the filter, and then just drop a nail through the hole to connect the pieces again. It DID feel real good to be able to let ALL the oil drain and not be rushed in/out of a place on the assembly line. :D
 
The dealer gave me my first change for free. They also put on the filter VERY tight. (as well as the plug in the pan! :mad:) I've done my own since then and never used a wrench on the filter. Same with the fuel filter changes. Get it tight by hand and you can get it of by hand. Lube the gasket and it will compress and seal. Never had any leakage.
 
I think it would be wise for you fellows to get the oil filter a little tighter than hand tight. That engine has a little vibration. I have heard of instances where the filters started leaking ,were not put on tight enough. I get mine as tight as I can with my hands and then use my strap wrench and go about turn tighter. Another 2 cents worth.
 
Before i switched to the dual bypass setup i just used a pair of huge Channey locks to get the filter off. It works every time
 
I got a "specialty tool" from the snap-on man ( blue-point #FWA62121 ) It's a filter wrench that goes on a socket extension so that you can spin it loose from under the truck. I'll admit that it was a chore to get the factory filter off, but not that bad.

I found that just letting the oil drain down for a while was enough to get the filter off without making a big mess.

Hope this helps!



Hank
 
My first oil change with the new 2001 was a nightmare. The truck being my third diesel since the '95 model year and doing my own oil changes for as far back as I could remember I had the most difficult time getting the filter off. After spending over an hour, 3 different filter wrenches and trying to be a contorionest I poked a hole in the filter housing and had to have the truck towed to the dealer for filter removal. They had said they experience this alot. Now for my own mental health I take the truck to the dealer for all oil changes. :)
 
Im wondering what size tool do I need for the drain plug? Also how much oil do I need? Do you prime your filters?



Mike
 
Originally posted by Sky

Im wondering what size tool do I need for the drain plug? Also how much oil do I need? Do you prime your filters?



Mike



For the stock drain plug, use a 3/8" socket driver (preferrably with an extension!) For the easy way, buy an EZ-Drain plug from Geno's.



If your pan is fully drained, you will need 11 quarts, and yes, I always prime my filter.
 
Changed my oil the other day and I had to try this new trick. Took the filler cap off, Loosened the drain plug so it was draining without taking it off, Then I went and had a beer :D (had to do it just like the instructions said ;) ) Went to spin the filter off and bingo the filter was 2/3rds full. enough for me to tilt it out without spilling. Great idea guys. :cool: The only thing I did different was not loosening the filter while it was draining. Seemed to still do the trick.



I'm still getting a dual bypass before winter (no garage :( )
 
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