Oil Pan Corrosion / Leaking

[Blakers]

I don't think so. Powder coating pretty much just lays on the surface and is like a layer of plastic. The metal must be perfectly clean with no oil residue for it to stick. I've had a lot of things powder coated over the years and it works great on brand new steel, but does eventually rust along the edges. What I made was almost impossible to clean 100%. There are epoxies that are tougher but will not hold up to sunlight, so they would probably work on a brand new oil pan.

I wonder if powder-coating would hold up.

 

[DNDracing]

After my oil pan issue (which I hope to never have to deal with again), I have been using an Amsoil product on it:

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...s-and-protectants/heavy-duty-metal-protector/

I put some on after installation, and plan to do so at every oil change. It does leave a wax like coating on the pan. Obviously can't attest to how well it works, as it has only been a few months and about 6,000 miles (of which about 3,000 have been on salt free roads), but we shall see. I've had good luck with Amsoil products in the past.

 

[DClark]

DZ ink24, we didn't use the shipping hook on the driver side of the engine. We lifted the motor using the front shipping hook left on the engine at the passenger side, and actually wrapped a chain around the engine mount itself on the driver side. The lifting point was almost at the center of the engine. We did measure before we lifted and had about 4. 75" of cherry picker travel before it hit the hood. Considering we had to lift it 3. 5", we had just over an inch. It wasn't close enough that it bothered me, and we were mindful of it.



Pan was not heavy, and no where near 4' long. I removed the old and put in the new by myself, on my back, working around the cherry picker, two jack stands, and hoist arms on both sides. It is very manageable. My estimate on a length would be 30" As jhenderson mentioned, start up was like any other normal oil change, no CEL, oil pressure jumped above 40lbs instantly at start up, and after two days of driving, no leaks around the pan (knock on wood).



As far as prevention of this happening again, I'm not sure, but need to figure something out. I tried to find an aftermarket pan (thinking something like the MagTech diff covers and trans pans), with no luck, and from I can tell and have read, there is nothing different with the replacement pan I bought from Geno's than the one I took off... even have the same part number stamped into it. I am concerned with this, as I plan to have this truck another 7 year minimum, maybe 10, and REALLY don't want to do this again. I did read on one thread a guy would take a rag with some oil on it, and wipe the pan down with it, I did that after the change (used the rag I had to wipe up the spills and drips after the change). Most of the damage (although not all) was in the sump area. The narrow portion towards the front of the engine was in pretty decent shape. I thought about trying to attach a rubber piece, or even thin aluminum sheet metal in front of the pan at or near the cross member, just to try to keep all the winter salt from the lovely roads we have here in Southeast Michigan off the pan. That decision is still TBD.

Try RUSTGUY PAINT. I see it advertised on farm and ag shows. Claim that it works over existing rust without sanding or wire brushing. RUSTGUY. COM

D Clark

 

[goodguys75]

Try RUSTGUY PAINT. I see it advertised on farm and ag shows. Claim that it works over existing rust without sanding or wire brushing. RUSTGUY. COM
D Clark

why would you not want to prep a surface..... does not take a whole lot of work, and it is better for the paint, no matter what the other guys say... ...

 

[jhenderson]

Because, as mentioned in many earlier posts, the pan often begins to leak when cleaned up to paint.

 

[Wayne M.]

Once it gets porous, and starts seeping oil through, it's done. There's really no way to prep and coat it really well. I think someone earlier said- and my case, there's other blooms happening in other spots. I'm driving to Dollywood in Tennessee this Aug, and I want no troubles. I pulled the trigger and called Geno's. I got the pan n gasket, Im trying to decide what to do with the bolts, probably wire brush them n paint them well after theyre back up.
Co-worker had a line-x job done, he said his bud was quoted $175 to have a small bull bar done. That's just too much. I've always had luck with POR15, and I'm looking at other options here.

 

[Wayne M.]

Well, today I joined the club. Oil pan is done and it went well. I didn't need to drop the pump pick up. I couldn't believe how much the front end rose once it was slung! I had taken some weight off the front to gain axle clearance and once it was up, the horses were loose! I didn't have issue with my hoist and I used an open hole at the front left front corner of the head. I made a tab out of 1/8 flat bar bent 90. I painted the exterior with POR15. I've used it a lot over the years with good results.
One observation. The bung of the pan is quite thick. We never really drain ALL of the oil in the pan.

Here's some pictures.

 

[rbattelle]

I wonder if powder-coating would hold up.

I thought the factory coating was powder coat? With a clear coat over top of that.



For the first 8 years of ownership I used to wipe the pan down with waste oil at each oil change. Then a couple years ago I coated it with rust preventative aerosol grease like what Blakers mentions. LPS No. 3, to be specific.



My pan has very little rust. Just a few tiny spots where the part number is stamped in.



-Ryan

 

[Wayne M.]

Ryan, not too sure what it is. Seems like the Ecoat you see on sheetmetal. I wasn't taking another chance, so I did what POR15 recommends with a scuffing with steel wool, their phosphate wash and then their paint. There's still spots of it in my Dad's driveway from when I did the Duster's floors in the '80's.

 

[brods]

My turn.

Question: What is so special about the 03-07 oil pan that it costs $450 while a similar looking pan for a 94-02 costs $115?? OUCH!!!

For that kind of money it is worth trying to salvage the original pan.

Anybody use the Spectra CRP45A oil pan?

 

[Karter]

My turn.

Question: What is so special about the 03-07 oil pan that it costs $450 while a similar looking pan for a 94-02 costs $115?? OUCH!!!

For that kind of money it is worth trying to salvage the original pan.

Anybody use the Spectra CRP45A oil pan?

I used the Spectra CRP45A pan and it worked just fine. It was $235.99 from RockAuto.com.

 

[Wayne M.]

Good to know. I don't think the spectra pan was out last year.

 

[brods]

Thanks Karter. Was there anything special inside the pan, like baffles or such?

I'm not sure what direction to go. Buying another steel pan that will eventually rot out again doesn't seem like the best option. There are several companies making stainless steel oil pans for big rigs, but I could find only one making a pan for Dodge applications. http://www.snodepotusa.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=157314&c=5956 They are in final testing of their 2nd gen pan and supposedly will be working on a 3rd gen pan in a few months. The price was attractive enough I would have bought a 3rd gen pan if they had one.

Mine is not dripping yet, just wet on the outside so I have some time (knock wood). The stock steel pan price is ridiculous, so that is just not a option. The Spectra would be my first choice, though it is still a bit pricey for a flimsy piece of sheet metal. Given the labor to change the pan I would prefer not to have to do it again. That leaves: repair the existing pan (the cheapest option), buy a stainless pan when they become available (most expensive option) or build a stainless pan myself (most rewarding option).

 

[seafish]

There are also welded aluminum pans available for 3rd gens. Sorry don't have the link right now, but they are out there.

 

[Karter]

There was nothing special in the pan. No baffles or anything like that. Same as the original pan.

 

[inlinesix3million]

I had mine replaced last year. I ordered replacement online from some mopar parts outfit in Texas. I remember it was a bit cheaper than the dealer. I just searched my email & cannot

find any info-sorry. What is significant though, is the oil pan appeared to be an upgraded design. It required new bolts be purchaced.(different length) And, when I rapped my

knuckles on the new pan- it sounded like it was made from some kind of composite? Should be able to poke around on the web & find info. Good luck!

 

[inlinesix3million]

BTW I ordered it from autopartsmopar.com It appears to be currently unavailable.

 

[Regcabguy]

Time to do mine again. I get the ocean breeze here. My neighbor parks his truck behind a tall gate and is rust free. My '98.5 never rusted.
Where do you obtain the POR15?

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Mines been rusted for quite a while now. It's a lot worse than any of the pics above. This morning while taking my dog out, I noticed a little wetness under the truck. Crawled under the front and picked a piece of rust off the pan and it became a gusher. Ordering parts tomorrow and I'm going to tackle it next Friday. With all the advice from above, hopefully it'll go smooth.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

I used the Spectra CRP45A pan and it worked just fine. It was $235.99 from RockAuto.com.

I've looked all over on Rockauto and can't find this pan anywhere. Did you have to call to order it?