Oil Pan Corrosion / Leaking

[Karter]

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT CRP45A Oil Pan $ 235.99 $ 0.00 1 $ 235.99

That's what they called it in the confirmation email they sent me. I ordered it online.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Thank you. I still can't find it, but calling them tomorrow.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

I called Rockauto cause I couldn't find it on the site. They no longer offer it if anyone is wondering. They do sell it at O'Reilly, that's where I got it from.

 

[Regcabguy]

I called Rockauto cause I couldn't find it on the site. They no longer offer it if anyone is wondering. They do sell it at O'Reilly, that's where I got it from.

Let us know how that works out.
I'm on my 2nd sanding and repaint on mine. My 2nd gen never corroded.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

I tackled this job today, took about 7 hours with my union mandated break. Was pretty easy, just time consuming due to my limited work space.

Here's my shop.

Getting the pan off wasn't too difficult. I followed a lot of the suggestions given from other members. I jacked the truck up by the frame so the tires were just touching the floor and put jack stands under the frame rails. I disconnected the batteries, the tube between the turbo and filter and the air horn. I loosened the four bolts from the cross member to the transfer case and loosened both motor mount bolts. I rented an engine hoist and rigged on the front eye on the passenger side and wrapped a chain around the driver side motor mount. It lifted the motor perfectly straight. I jacked it up till the valve cover touched. When jacked all the way up, the head of the hoist was about 2 feet away from the hood.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

The outcome from todays struggles.

This really wasn't too bad of a job. I would definitely do it again if someone needed help. The only part that gave me trouble was when I lowered the motor back down into the mounts. The drivers side went right in, not so much the passengers side. That side took me about an hour. There wasn't enough bolt sticking out the front of the mount to slide over the flange of the mount. I had to put a chain hoist on the mount and pull the motor forward to get the bolt over the mount flange.

This was a Spectra pan I ordered from O'Reillys. Holding the two pans side by side it's pretty hard to tell them apart. The Spectra pan was a lot cheaper than the factory pan and it came with a drain plug, unlike the factory pan.

My war wounds from todays event include four banged and bloody knuckles, two goose eggs on my head and countless scrapes on my arms. I ended up throwing my shirt and pants away. I actually washed my hair with Fast Orange after bathing in oil all afternoon. I don't think I've ever been this dirty after working on a vehicle before.

Thanks to all who posted suggestions on how to make this job fairly easy. It's a big help when you go into it knowing some tips and shortcuts to do it right the first time.

 

[brods]

I called Rockauto cause I couldn't find it on the site. They no longer offer it if anyone is wondering. They do sell it at O'Reilly, that's where I got it from.

Thats odd, it was still listed for an 05 and one arrived today from Rockauto. I caved and bought it after not being able to find a used one (for free) to use as a pattern for making one out of stainless.

...
Thanks to all who posted suggestions on how to make this job fairly easy. It's a big help when you go into it knowing some tips and shortcuts to do it right the first time.

X2

 

[LWINGATE]

I have read through your thread on this quest and was curious did you have to remove the radiator or any thing else prior to lifting? Thanks, getting ready to change one on my 2001 6 speed.

 

[DNDracing]

Larry,

Only thing I had to remove was the motor mount bolts, nothing else. Lifted the engine a little better than 3" to get the pan out between the cross member and the oil pick up tube.

I would recommend lifting it like TRAMPLINEMAN did, and not like I did which was using the shipping hook, on the pass side, and wrapping around the engine mount on the driver side. Lifting like he did at the front of the motor would improve leverage and make it a little easier.

Good luck.

 

[Wayne M.]

I was very lucky during my job. No battle scars or anything. It was going very awesome till I got the pan out from under and went to pick it up. Then I lost my grip- over it went and dirty oil all over the concrete. Right near my front steps! Argh! Stain still there a year later!

 

[Karter]

I did mine with the truck on a hoist. I used a transmission jack to lift the engine from underneath. I wouldn't recommend this method. Lots of room too work, but sketchy lifting that much weight while on the hoist.

 

[Udaloy]

Sno Depot now has the 3rd gen stainless pan, Item # 3949769: http://www.snodepotusa.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=725409&c=5956

I've contacted them for a price, and will reply when they get back to me.

 

[Regcabguy]

Sno Depot now has the 3rd gen stainless pan, Item # 3949769: http://www.snodepotusa.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=725409&c=5956

I've contacted them for a price, and will reply when they get back to me.

That might be the way to go,especially for the rust belt owners.

 

[seafish]

Sno Depot now has the 3rd gen stainless pan, Item # 3949769: http://www.snodepotusa.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=725409&c=5956

I've contacted them for a price, and will reply when they get back to me.

NICE find…looking forward to hearing the price, though I thin k that I'll be sitting down when I read it.

 

[mwilson]

Larry,

Only thing I had to remove was the motor mount bolts, nothing else. Lifted the engine a little better than 3" to get the pan out between the cross member and the oil pick up tube.

I would recommend lifting it like TRAMPLINEMAN did, and not like I did which was using the shipping hook, on the pass side, and wrapping around the engine mount on the driver side. Lifting like he did at the front of the motor would improve leverage and make it a little easier.

Good luck.

So is there room to take the pan out without dropping the sump on third gens??? I know on the second gens that you have to drop the sump into the pan, then the pan will come out with the block jacked to the max.
I am curious.

 

[DNDracing]

So is there room to take the pan out without dropping the sump on third gens??? I know on the second gens that you have to drop the sump into the pan, then the pan

I was able to clear the sump when I did mine. Lifted the engine about 3 inches, and was able to clear, no issues.

 

[DNDracing]

So is there room to take the pan out without dropping the sump on third gens??? I know on the second gens that you have to drop the sump into the pan, then the pan will come out with the block jacked to the max.
I am curious.

mwilson, I was able to clear the sump when I did mine. Lifted the engine about 3 inches, and was able to clear, no issues.

 

[DNDracing]

I just got off the phone with Travis at SnoDepot, their price is $695 which includes the gasket, and the drain plug. Its 304 stainless.

The OE replacement is $475 at Geno's. After having done this job myself, I think I would spend the extra $220 and get the stainless one.

 

[seafish]

I just got off the phone with Travis at SnoDepot, their price is $695 which includes the gasket, and the drain plug. Its 304 stainless.

The OE replacement is $475 at Geno's. After having done this job myself, I think I would spend the extra $220 and get the stainless one.

Yup, definitely glad that I was sitting down…still if it is a quality built piece, it might well be worth the extra money compared to another oem which may well decide to rust through again. Just read on another forum someone is starting a complaint to NHTS about corroding oil pans on these trucks. I guess that if you lose all your oil on the highway and stall out do to a seized engine, it could well be considered highway safety issue-- and that being said, while my oil pan is NOT corroding, I have personally read of 12 or more instances of people in fact having this problem.

 

[jhenderson]

All manufactures suffer from this problem. I've seen plenty of Ford and GM pans rusted through over the years. Drive them in winter with salt and other chemicals blasting them and it's bound to happen.