Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) OK, does it need any lubing?

[rMetzger]

Just had a 3-piece exhaust installed. The TAP-TAP-TAP! noise of the previous leaky manifold is gone, presumably forever. WooHoo! 2 questions: Ought I have the bolts all retorqued after a few weeks (they used a good amount of orange silicone sealant, so I don't foresee any backing-out) and, should the slipjoints have any lube on them, at all, or do they just work forever dry?

 

[jdooner]

I don't remember where I got the idea, but, someone said to put anti-seize compound on the manifold joints. This is what I didn't and haven't had any problems. Wait a minute... 12valve? Wasn't that a 2 piece manifold? The ports on the 24 valve(mine) are different. And they also recommended retorquing. Do a search, RWeis did quite a write up on this.

 

[rMetzger]

will search RWeis... thanx

 

[MLee]

Mine came all put together and just had to install it. I used Antisieze as recommended on the bolts, and retourqed a few weeks later. But everything was still tight. The bolts on the turbo were a little loose and took a lttle turning. My finish is still the color that it came with, no rust after a few years. But ya IF you have install instructions refere to them for the proper information. Yours might be a little different. Why silicon? in such a heat struin area.

 

[Bob4x4]

Anti-seize on the joints at initial assy is what I do. If the factory torque specs are used more often than not they are good to go. It is pretty tough to impossible to get accurate torque on the turbo bolts so most will use the German spec-gudentite
I used s/s Allan head cap screws and the still are tight and rust free after Many years of use

 

[rMetzger]

Mine came pre-assembled, too. Seemed pretty stiff. I didn't notice any instructions in the box. Dropped truck at shop on Thursday picked up Friday. Will probably take it out on highway and pound on it a little tomorrow. Ceramic coating on it so might at least not get all rusty


also... Since it arrived pre-assembled, and since it's already on the truck, how might I lube it, anyway? is there an anti-seize spray that would seep into the joint? Ought I even be worrying about it at all?

 

[rMetzger]

Well, I called Brett at DPS in Salt Lake City this morning. No lube needed. No way to get it in there, anyway. The slipjoints are straight, and they fit'em together by chilling the male portions in liquid nitrogen, and heating the female fittings for expansion. He said some of the other companies use a balljoint that does have leak issues, but, their process precludes that possibility. Woohoo!

 

[MLee]

Metz, those joint are ok, don't worry about them and lube. Just retighten the socket heads after you get it good and hot, BUT let it cool, or do it in the cool AM and follow the pattern to tighten it down. You did get instructions to tighten the bolts didn't you? This is very important, just like installing a head and gasket.

 

[rMetzger]

Will have to have'em emailed to me. I don't even think they were in the box. And, I don't know if I'm going to accomplish "good and hot"... Took it down the road from Corpus out to The Island, and didn't get much past 600*F, even climbing the biggest hill at my disposal (the JFK causeway bridge) :-laf

 

[MLee]

Do a Search and see if you can find the proceedure. Might try www.dodgeram.org and search /look for manifold. I have seen a diagram.

Start in the middle and work outwards, top and then bottom, top and then bottom. Start with about 15llb' to start and then build slowly to 35llb'. But you already have it on. never mind. As stated start in the middle, work outward top then bottom, kind of like a circle, till you run out of bolts. kind of like youd do a head gasket. Work middle to the end.

Hope this is not confusing. sorry if it is.

 

[rMetzger]

Since it's pretty rigid, would the tightening sequence be the same as the OEM? I'd be re-verifying torque on both the manifold/head, and also the manifold/turbo-flange

 

[MLee]

Metz, You already have it on. So If it were me and it isn't, I'd just use the circle method starting in the middle and work out ward to the ends as a re-tourqe and forget it. Might do a re-check ocasonaly, for a while but should be good to go. Just watch the bolts for them starting to loosen up when you have your hood up. Some have experianced losing them on the fire wall side of the engine.

 

[rMetzger]

Cool. I might check torque after about a month or so. In that amount of time, if there's going to be any initial loosening, it should have happened, I guess. The kit included a bunch of big Allen-head bolts, so it at least looks sort of high-tech. I no longer have a torque wrench, but, my calibrated-arm (read: "metzger"--->>> German--->>>"Gudentite") can usually get pretty close. So far, though, I really like the way it goes. The leak-tap noise is gone, and it seems like the turbo-whistle is a little louder. Maybe I was losing pretty significant drive pressure, or the leak might have been generating a low-pressure zone, and some unnecessary turbulence that hampered some small percentage of efficiency. Seems like my air-turd even clears up a little quicker, when I short-shift and lay on it. Can't complain. How long's yours been on? Ever any trouble at all?

 

[MLee]

Mines been on for three years an still black like when it was installed. Reason I used these guys were they had a better price and they were locale. And to pick it up and not worry about it getting droped in transet, cause it was assembled. "Calibrated arm?" My kid has a calibrated arm and usualy brakes the bolt. "Just a little more. " OOOPS

 

[rMetzger]

That's how calibrations get verified.