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ok...relative nubee on the road to more power

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Transmission swapout

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Ok all...

I bought a stock 1992 LE PowerRam 250 with 6" block lifts with 16. 5" rims, 35x12. 50 BF Goodrich. The only modification it had was a straight exhaust pipe. Rear leaf spring rear bracket broke from rusting out, so I am replacing rear brackets and springs (the front bracket for the rear spring is dicontinued, so will have to fabricate something for it), the front springs, shocks (getting the rancho rs9000). I have bought 4 gauges (egt, 0-60 boost, trans temp and oil pressure) and have to fab some sort of pod for the gauges. The exhaust is cracked, so I ordered the Gibson Swept Side Aluminized Exhaust System with a powerflow muffler (I love the loud straight pipes, but a touch too loud for normal driving around and to my neighbors at 5:30am), with a 5"tip, and a bully dog fuel pin from xtremediesel. It is currently getting a valve adjustment and a new rear main seal which is leaking. The truck's body is in great shape, with just a bit of rust under the doors.

I think I have everything really to create a decent ride :-laf, and would appreciate any feedback. :-{}

Couple of things I was thinking about doing, and would like some feedback. One is that the rear frame is a little rusty, and I was going to reinforce it with steel. Should I weld or bolt? Also, any ideas on fabricating a gauge pod. I was thinking a stained wood pod that would screw to my dashboard (top and to the left). Any ideas? I have read all that I can on tapping for gauges, and I think I have got it down. The gent at Geno's said I should install the tran temp on the lower left or right side, not the bottom. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks ahead of time.

Shawn
 
I would suggest some HO injectors as the stockers have probably seen better days, advance the timing a bit, get a 16cm exhaust housing or a different turbo. Valve set is a good idea. Borgenson steering shaft if it doesn't have one already. Change all fluids and check everything over. Keep boost under 30-35 psi or bye bye headgasket (you are on borrowed time over that). Good luck and have fun. Try to keep some skin on your knuckles.
 
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Should I weld or bolt



Without a doubt... WELD.

I would want the temp probe on the side as well... that way the wire won't be the lowest thing there. . to get torn off someday.

Also on the side will make sure the probe stay immersed in the oil ... . no idea how long the probe is or how much oil is always in the pan but it's an issue to consider.
 
CToney, i think i disagree with 30-35psi being the max boost for our head gaskets. Tippinspottedcow has claimed to push over 47psi and has had no head gasket trouble. the big thing is just making sure not to peg it untill the motor is warmed up. most guys say not to hit over 10psi untill at operating temp. PToombs has told me in the past that its now thought these headgaskets are capable of 50-55psi before bad trouble.
 
Or you can clamp the trans temp probe to the output line to the cooler. Works fine, no chance of a leak, less work than removing pan and welding in a fitting.
 
How would you clamp it to the trans line? no drilling, no nothing, just clamp the probe itself to the output line to cooler? Will that give me a fairly accurate reading?

Thanks,

Shawn
 
Your timing also works into how long your head gasket will last. I have stock timing on my truck. If you advance the timing with that kind of boost... well I'll let you know what happens cuz I'm planning on doing mine when I get a chance. Advanced timing cranks up cylinder pressure, though. Add that to high boost... . recipe for disaster... and who better to try it than yours truly... the man with more broken parts than working ones.
 
I'd put the probe wherever it will give you the higest reading. You are (or should be) looking for trends, and want to avoid disaster ahead of time.



Injectors depend on what power you want to achieve. Any more than 250-275hp, and you'll need injectors, along with transmission upgrades. Gets pricey in a hurry. With today's prices, it wont hurt to get your stockers checked and reset anyway. I know a good local injection shop that has good prices.



I'm on the fence about the Borgeson shaft- the stocker in my 4x4s lasted 10+ years, so why not just spend $40 for another 10 years? But, others have differing opinions.



PUT THE THERMOCOUPLE IN THE MANIFOLD!!!! I know this gets as heated as religious, political, oil, and transmission discussions, but the reason for the pyrometer is to monitor engine condition and prevent disaster. If the probe is in the pipe, it will have a 3-500deg difference from the manifold reading, rendering it nearly useless on an other-than-stock engine.



Dont know about the Gibson exhaust, so cant comment. I have run a 4" straight pipe, and it is actually quieter than the 3" straight pipe. JUst hope you didnt pay $500 for a 3" exhaust system- I have a stock system in great shape I'd give ya.



Daniel
 
I had bad luck with a headgasket on a '97. I only had 35 psi of boost. It pushed all my oil into the coolant, not fun. With the 12cm housing my drive pressure was probably way higher than with say a 16 cm housing but you are out of the efficiency map. I clean, safe, reliable power to help tow. If you have an aftermarket turbo you a probably safer with higher boost levels.
 
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