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parking brake cable question

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Steering Stabilizer

Need a Part # for Mopar PREMIUM brake pads

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BMcQuillan

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Hello, My truck is a 2005 2500 4wd with the 5.9 Cummins. I just finished doing complete front and rear brakes along with draining and dropping the fuel tank to replace the front to rear line that runs behind the tank. I had done the parking brake shoes several years ago, but reused the original cables, as they were still in working order. This time due to rust issues from all the salt used on the roads here in Mass. I replaced all the parking brake components , cables, shoes and hardware. I have the shoes adjusted, but am confused as to the factory procedure for adjusting the cables. They want you to loosen the threaded rod to create slack in the cables, but don't give any idea how much slack to start with. The biggest question is they want you to mark the tensioner rod 1/4 inch from the adjuster, and tighten the cable until the mark disappears. By looking at it, I I don't see where the rod will move at all, as there is constant tension on it. If anyone can help me with more information, I would really appreciate it. Thanks!
 
They want you to loosen the threaded rod to create slack in the cables, but don't give any idea how much slack to start with. The biggest question is they want you to mark the tensioner rod 1/4 inch from the adjuster, and tighten the cable until the mark disappears. By looking at it, I I don't see where the rod will move at all, as there is constant tension on it. If anyone can help me with more information, I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

A couple of questions for you first. Are you the original owner of the truck? Have you ever adjusted the equalizer cable (along the frame on the driver side)? If you are the original owner and have never adjusted the equalizer cable, then just back off the equalizer adjuster enough to provide plenty of free play.

If you aren't the original owner and you have adjusted the equalizer cables (not the proper method to adjust the park brakes), or you don't know if they have ever been adjusted, then back off the equalizer adjustment a lot. To much slack is better than not enough slack at this point.

An important step that is sometimes missed: After the park brake shoes and hardware have been installed, set each adjuster tp its minimum length. Verify that each set of brake shoes firmly contact each respective anchor pin simultaneously. If the shoes on one side move away from the anchor pin while pressing the shoes against the anchor pin on the other side, this means that the equalizer cable is not backed off far enough. Be sure to correct this situation by backing off the equalizer adjustment even further.

The park brake adjustment is done in two steps. First adjustment is made at the foundation brakes with the star wheel. I prefer to have the rear axle on jack stands with the rear wheels mounted. Adjust each star adjuster until you can't rotate the wheel by hand. Back off the adjuster 3 to 5 clicks - only enough to allow the wheel to spin freely (a small drag is okay).

Now the equalizer cable adjustment can be made. Tighten the adjustment (frequently pulling the cable by hand) until there is about 1/4" of free play at each cable end. Set the park brake. The pedal should fully set the park brake shoes at about 1/4 of the full pedal travel. If necessary, recheck the star wheel adjustment and then equalizer cable adjustment in the same order.

Any future adjustment of the park brake is always done in the same order (star adjuster first, cable adjuster last) to ensure that the park brake shoes always rest against their respective anchor pins when the park brake is released.

When you are done, you should have a very strong holding park brake.

- John
 
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