Originally posted by wawazat
to reduce the throw distance. The distance from the pivot point to the end inside the transmission needs to be lengthened to reduce the distance you feel in the cab.
Todd
Originally posted by rmcnamee
2). The upper shifter is, for the most part hollow, with the upper end being solid and threaded- this is how the knob screws onto it. If you cut the threads off the upper section, you would have to insert a solid rod into the upper shifter, weld it in place and thread the rod, so that the knob can be screwed on. This is easy enough if you are good with a mig welder, but there is a catch. When I installed my Fuller shift knob, I simply cut the threaded section off, cut down the shifter and inserted a piece of 1/2" rod and welded it in place. What I didn't think about was vibrations. After cutting the shifter and inserting the rod, I would get a slight, but still annoying, vibration when I ran up the RPMs or lugged the engine a little.
Ryan
Originally posted by bighammer
I chopped about 6" off the stick in my old truck. (it was more to get the shifter out of the way so a child seat would work on the middle seat) I like it. It does reduce the throw a bit too. I cut off the threaded part then cut some length and welded it back on with my stick welder. I was able to do a pretty neat job and keep the weld concealed by the "skirt" on the lower part of the knob.
Throw is proportional to the square of your shifter length. (I think... If not, it sure SOUNDS good)The BD kit changes the length by about 5/8" but it's just a couple inches from the pivot point. Cutting off 5 or 6" nearly 2 feet away should have a similar effect. It also makes you reach for it too. The advantage of the kit is that the knob stays close to you with reduced travel.
I'll try to get some pictures of it.
Originally posted by bighammer
Throw is proportional to the square of your shifter length. (I think... If not, it sure SOUNDS good)