Post Turbo EGT install

[RJOL]

If your truck is stock there is no reason to back off based on the readings on your EGT gauge no matter where it is placed. If you could burn one of these trucks up by holding to the floor there would be tons of people burning up motors all the time. There are a lot more people driving these trucks that use and work them without any knowledge or concern about EGTs than there are people who do. As long as you are stock and towing within the specified limits of the truck it is very doubtful you will be able to hurt it, even at high elevations, if you could there would be a warning in the owner's manual, and a EGT gauge stock. EGT gauges are interesting to watch but on a stock truck thier only role in preventing damage to the engine is to monitor shut down temps.

Well... there you have it... Dodge would never design something that might be a problem area like overtemping a stock CTD. I guess they would never put an automatic transmission in one that could be a problem with heavy towing, or exhaust brakes either. Why are you concerned about "shut down temps. " Surely Dodge would never design something that could harm the turbo "in a stock truck. "



"Gauges... We don't need no stinking gauges... "

 

[crobertson1]

Sweet. Now I can just floor it all over the place and not worry about a thing. I wonder if I can my money back for the gauges.

 

[Bertram65]

Well... there you have it... Dodge would never design something that might be a problem area like overtemping a stock CTD. I guess they would never put an automatic transmission in one that could be a problem with heavy towing, or exhaust brakes either. Why are you concerned about "shut down temps. " Surely Dodge would never design something that could harm the turbo "in a stock truck. "



"Gauges... We don't need no stinking gauges... "

Read the manual that came with the truck it address' shut down and letting the engine run for a length of time depending on how it was being used to allow the turbo to cool, so if you follow the manual you do not even need the gauge for that, of corse a pre turbo gauge would be useless as you could not read the turbo temp with the probe in front of it. No where in the manual does it mention backing off under certain conditions be it heavily loaded or high elevations.

 

[Bertram65]

Sweet. Now I can just floor it all over the place and not worry about a thing. I wonder if I can my money back for the gauges.

If your truck is stock that is pretty much the case.

 

[rbattelle]

This "pre turbo" danger is like an urban myth. The chance of this happening is so rare, if ever, in a stock setup (non racing, competition, etc. ) that it is not worth talking about...

I very much agree.



-Ryan

 

[HeavyHauler]

Okay read the posts and have decided to install my Pyro POST Turbo (Yes I expect flak for that) I'm looking for info as to others who have installed there. Pictures, tools needed, etc.



Thanks!



And PRE TURBO guys... ... Please... . I decided. I ain't planning to go much over stock on the engine. It works fine just the way it is... .

Hey guys, I hate to break up a spirited argument here, but lets all read the original post and questions.



He wants to know what tools are needed and to see some pictures and any other info about the INSTALLATION. He specifically said he didn't want this to turn into a Pre/Post debate so why don't you guys take this argument somewhere else.



I'm really sick of people getting off topic on these threads. Perhaps I was the one that started it all by asking why he decided to go Post-turbo but I seriously doubt it.



There's gotta be some advantages to going Post-Turbo because most (if not all) of the big trucks that I've seen, worked on, and read about have the probe installed after the turbo.



Let's try to answer the guy's questions and leave all the bickering out of it.

 

[DPKetchum]

He knew what was gonna happen when he posted it. So the last I'll say is that all the forums I have read for SEVERAL years UNTIL the 3rd generation, POST turbo was NEVER discussed other then its not WHERE you want to put the probe or so I've read until the 3rd generation forums. Theres only a few spots you check a basting turkeys temp and the BIG hole in the backside of it is not one of them! So enough said, explain how to install the probe were he wants it to go.

 

[MMead]

In the spirit of testraub’s original question… Would someone who has installed post-turbo please provide some basic installation pointers and pictures for those of us who are already 110% sure that they are doing a post-turbo installation? What size drill bit should I use? After the hole has been drilled, what needs to be done to put the probe in place? Do I need any materials other than what came with the gauge? Do I need to worry at all about metal shavings since it’s post-turbo? Thanks.

 

[RankRam]

Theres only a few spots you check a basting turkeys temp and the BIG hole in the backside of it is not one of them! So enough said, explain how to install the probe were he wants it to go.

Now that's funny! :-laf

 

[ceaman]

you will need an 1/8" pipe tap and some lube to keep it from breaking it off..... some anti sieze works good on the probe too! Dont worry about the shavings... no problem

 

[RJOL]

... And PRE TURBO guys... ... Please... . I decided. I ain't planning to go much over stock on the engine. It works fine just the way it is... .

This is why it went away from his original question... He doesn't believe a stock engine (or "much over stock") can be a temp problem... Now... as I said before... "it's your truck... put it anywhere you want. "

 

[JCleary]

Even if it *is* possible, it's just a good excuse to upgrade your turbo



On Edit: Temp probe breaking off and wrecking your turbo, that is.

 

[rbattelle]

In the spirit of testraub’s original question… Would someone who has installed post-turbo please provide some basic installation pointers and pictures for those of us who are already 110% sure that they are doing a post-turbo installation? What size drill bit should I use? After the hole has been drilled, what needs to be done to put the probe in place? Do I need any materials other than what came with the gauge? Do I need to worry at all about metal shavings since it’s post-turbo? Thanks.

It's really a simple job. As others have pointed out, there is no need to fear shavings as there's nothing for them to damage when they fly out the exhaust. That assumes you don't have a catalytic convertor. If you do, then I'd seriously consider removing the elbow, drilling, and re-installing. It's not hard, trust me.



Thermocouples come in either 1/4 NPT or 1/8 NPT. Mine happened to be a 1/4 NPT. Some have pointed out that if you have a choice you should get a 1/8 NPT, that way if you mess up drilling and tapping you can make the hole bigger and switch to a 1/4 NPT. Essentially that strategy gives you 2 chances to get it right.



There's tons of clearance around that elbow, so I recommend putting the hole somewhere along the topside of the elbow so it stays away from salty spray and it's easy to inspect. I assume you already know how to drill and tap a hole, but if you don't there's lots of machinists much more experienced than me here who can offer some excellent tapping tips.



According to my little cheater card, a 1/8-27 NPT tap takes an 11/32 drill. A 1/4-18 tap takes a 7/16 drill. The material is iron, which normally doesn't present any tapping problems (according to Machinery's Handbook, anyway).



I'm afraid I don't have a picture of mine at the moment...



-Ryan

 

[hERKY130]

thermocouples in jet engine, similar concept

For what its worth I have a little input into high temps pre turbo. I fly C-130s that have jet engines which convert heat from a turbine into high RPM low torque power. On our engines, depending what grade of metal the turbine is made from, we're allowed to increase the throttle to a certain TIT Turbine Inlet Temperature. That temperature is measured after the engine inlet air has been compressed 14 times and then combusted. Our limits are 971 C which comes to about 1880 degrees F.



I've seen blown thermocouples that have burned out and on almost all of them, the metal has just melted onto itself and no catastrophic explosion occurs due to the high temps. In any case, accidents haven't occured due to the thermocouples shearing off, they have occured because as the TC breaks down, its sensing less and less temp and thus the pilot increases the TIT until the Turbine itself shells.



I'm not sure what the CTD thermocouples are made of, but I would guess they're made of something a little less stout than those from Lockheed. So it stands to reason that if you want the turbine in the turbo to last longer, you need to know and have limits for the temp entering it. Sorry to continue the wrong debate for this thread, but I thought you might be interested. I am still waiting for my truck and the chance to drill my EGT hole or holes.

 

[Cattletrkr]

I put my 1st EGT probe on my current truck post-turbo. Install was easy. Remove the elbow, less chance of screwing up the threads doing it on a workbench. Cast drills/taps easy, not too much to worry about. Those stupid factory clamps that hold the elbow on are the worst part of the install.



I put the probe that came witht he Attutude between cyl. 3-4, just before the manifold comes together. On a hard acceleration, that max. difference I see between the two is 150*F. On a long pull they are only about 50*F apart. I can be at 1020* at the manifold and just under 1000* behind the turbo. I haven't figured out if my engine is cool of if my turbo is hot, but the difference just isn't there. The higher the setting on the Juice, the wider the difference is on accel.



As for which one is accurate, that's just stupid. Both are accurate assuming your gauge works.



POWER TO THE POST, or wherever else you want to put it.

 

[RJOL]

... I've seen blown thermocouples that have burned out and on almost all of them, the metal has just melted onto itself and no catastrophic explosion occurs due to the high temps. In any case, accidents haven't occured due to the thermocouples shearing off, they have occured because as the TC breaks down, its sensing less and less temp and thus the pilot increases the TIT until the Turbine itself shells.

The "K" couple used for our CTD's is rated to around 2500 degrees F. If your operating in that range, the least of your problems will be a melted "K" coupler. Now if you were to use a "J" couple (rated to around 1500 degrees F) then you might have a problem... .

 

[RDedrick]

Does anybody know the temp difference between the pre and post turbo . I see Cattletrkr only has a 150 degrees F difference. If that is all, does it really matter where you put the probe. I am new and my truck is stock. , but looking to upgrade exhaust and air intake.

 

[JohnnyH]

To ease my mind about a probe breaking off, I plan on changing mine every couple years. Not very expensive and should take only a few minutes. JMO.

 

[ceaman]

Does anybody know the temp difference between the pre and post turbo . I see Cattletrkr only has a 150 degrees F difference. If that is all, does it really matter where you put the probe. I am new and my truck is stock. , but looking to upgrade exhaust and air intake.

Pre post temp difference is 200 Degrees as a rule of thumb.

 

[p-Bar]

When I owned my 85 Ford Diesel they said becareful about the glow plugs they can break off and cause some damage. The only thing that ever happened was they would overheat and bend so I couldn't remove them. I am going post just like the big riggers.