Problem with Front Differential Clearance - MAG-HYTEC/2010 3500 4X4

[Ragedisorder]

I installed the MAG-HYTEC Dodge #AA 14-9. 25 that I had ordered from Geno's, was pretty straightforward. With the truck raised on a jack and wheels straight, I couldn't see anything creating problems. However, I popped underneath the next morning (having drove home from friend's place where the install took place) and noticed the new cover had some gouges in the center-most three 'fans'. It was obvious that the mounting bracket for the steering damper on the tie-rod was the culprit. After kicking myself for being so foolish to overlook the issue, I got down to trying to solve the problem. I was able to move the bracket about 1/2 inch to the right on the tie-rod 'recieving area' wher the damper is supposed to attach (there is a flat area on the round tie-rod for this), and I was also able to rotate the whole bracket a few degrees 'forward' so the angle of the bracket (and therefore it's interference with the cover was reduced) and then I ground down the bracket and bolts. This wasn't easy because I did it in place (took off one of the u-bolts to bench grind it and it was so hard to get off I decide to hand-grind instead. Long story short, after much grinding the bracket now has minimal clearance with the differential cover at full left turn. The cover is fine but not as beautiful as it was when it was pristine. I will attach pics of the bracket below (hopefully).

My bad for not doing full investigation with clearances, but it would have been nice to know in advance this does not fit as a stock add-on. Maybe with a new steering damper (bilstein?) problem is reduced but not sure, anyways, just so you all know...

 

[ColoradoKing]

Your bracket replaced the drilled mounting hole for the steering damper that the 3rd Gens had, but you still have the flat area where the hole was drilled. If you can simply drill the hole for the steering damper through the flat area, then you can remove the bracket and get the clearance you need. I have no idea whether you'd compromise the strength of the tie rod, but you could measure the thickness of mine against yours and determine whether it was dimensionally identical, and then (hopefully) some smart guy from Dodge could tell you that it was simply a cost saving measure, and you wouldn't be voiding the warranty or hurting the truck by drilling... .

Otherwise, you'll have to find a new bracket assembly (we can get Gunny to help fabricate something, perhaps even modifying the existing one so it flips 180 degrees and then mounts under the piston of the damper. Clearance on the damper and the ability of the u-bolts to get around the flat area on the tie rod would be your major problems. If you buy one, it'll solve the problem, but it'll cost you.

 

[Ragedisorder]

Steph,



Thanks for taking time to discuss with me today. I had a closer look after our discussion, the way I see it the bracket is a 'no-go' due to the tolerance on the tie-rod for the u-bolts (inadequate to move plate other than reversing it on tie rod - but then the angle of piston wouldn't work). We could grind grooves in for the u-bolts but I am not a fan if that idea yet... I checked out a few other options but really the best I have seen so far is a new piston-to-tie-rod-attachment mechanism like the Thuren clamp pictured, however at 100 bucks it is pricey, I will keep searching for other choices, but if nothing else this clamp should work and eliminate the problem for me. I e-mailed Thuren for specs, so will let you know how it goes, thanks again brother!

 

[ColoradoKing]

Am wondering if you got any farther on this? I'm happy to help with the install whenever you decide on the process. Any chance before we head to Glenwood Springs?

 

[Bob4x4]

With the 08 steering linkage design the damper bracket will hit. I did a truck with an aftermarket (no names to protect the inocent) and it will almost clear. With a lil grinding it can be used.

Carli suspension has a high mount kit that is completely out of that area but I have never used one with out the lower to know if it will get the job done on it's own. I can tell you it will work fine with a set of 37's and the stock lower.

 

[SierraRam]

You could go with a high mount too. I really like it up and out of the way and since it connects to the drag link problem solved.



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[Ragedisorder]

Thanks for the info gents - I like the idea of the Carli high mount, will have to do some research and see what the consensus is for employing it by itself, looks like SierraRam has removed the stock lower entirely and is running off just the high mount.

 

[SierraRam]

It will push a little to the left depending how much pressure is charged in the stabilizer. Doesn't really bother me.