Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Proper order for upgrading your 12valve

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1)Install a quality set of gauges, i. e. ; 50 lb. boost gauge, exhaust temp, and trans temp on auto's.
2)Install a 4" exhaust from the turbo back, utilizing the cat converter by cutting the inlet open to 4", the outlet is already 4".
3)Install a K&N air filter.
4)Install a JRE power kit 230 hp and 610 lb. torque, Manuals will require an AFC spring kit to control smoke.
5)On Auto's replace the torque converter with a Pro Torque low stall Heavy duty converter and install a TFOD Diesel shift kit.
On manuals replace the clutch with a Centerforce Dual Friction Heavy duty clutch.
6)Install the JRE 1/2 fuel system from the tank to the lift pump to eliminate air in the system and supply enough fuel to feed the demand of the mighty Cummins 5. 9 turbo Diesel.
7)Replace the injectors with high flow units, JRE, BD,.
8)If that's not enough call me and I will sell you the DEATH PLATE!!!!!!!
9)Use your head when driving or towing, these engines are capable of over 1000 lb. torque when equipped with the Death Plate.

Ted Jannetty

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Owner and President, Jannetty Racing Enterprises Inc.
97 Dodge 3500 manual trans, US gear overdrive, 3. 54 posi, 235/85R16, mods- JRE Stage III Power Kit, 300hp injectors, JRE 4" Exhaust Kit, Cummins Chrome Kit, Prime Loc,
2 gauge dash mount with 50 lb boost guage and EGT. 97 Ski-Doo Formula 500 Deluxe/ Turbocharged 670 engine

 

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Thanks Ted for the information. It looks like I am the only one on this forum with a 12v engine.
I have not ever heard anything about a fuel system problem. Could you expand on the problem and what your fix (JRE 1/2 fuel system) entails?
Also, have you ever seen any problems with the oil/cloth filters were the oil eventually coats the inside of the intercooler and causes problems?
One last question, if the funds are not available to do all of these mods at this time, is there any harm to the engine if the 230/605 kit is installed without the exaust upgrade and new injectors?

I really appreciate you spending your time to provide everyone on this forum with the knowledge you have learned over the years!

Thanks,
Tim

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94' 2500 4x4, std cab, 12v, 5spd, gauges, TST 230/605, 110k mi.
96' 2500 4x4, ext cab, 12v, 5spd, Cummins Exhaust brake, 50k mi, (wifes).
Phx, AZ

 

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No, you are not alone, but I can see your point. Now I know how the first generation guys felt a few years ago. Oh well.

So many toys #ad


So little $$$ #ad

 

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Ted,
Can you also explain the AFC spring. I have the banks torque plate, and the smoke is heavy in the low end if i floor it.
Thanks,
Jack

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97 Red, slide in camper, horse trailer, K&N air, 255. 85. 16 Big O XT, Banks Stinger Plus(minus exhaust), A pillar gauge mounts, after market overload springs

 

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You should be able to adjust the star wheel toward the engine to reduce the smoke.
The AFC controls how much fuel VS. boost.

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Owner and President, Jannetty Racing Enterprises Inc.
97 Dodge 3500 manual trans, US gear overdrive, 3. 54 posi, 235/85R16, mods- JRE Stage III Power Kit, 300hp injectors, JRE 4" Exhaust Kit, Cummins Chrome Kit, Prime Loc,
2 gauge dash mount with 50 lb boost guage and EGT. 97 Ski-Doo Formula 500 Deluxe/ Turbocharged 670 engine

 

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Thanks for the answer Ted. I just got done reading the feature article about increasing power in the members section of this page and increased my knowledge substantially!!
Realy interesting reading for 12v owners!
Thanks again Ted,
Jack

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97 Red, slide in camper, horse trailer, K&N air, 255. 85. 16 Big O XT, Banks Stinger Plus(minus exhaust), A pillar gauge mounts, after market overload springs

 

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Ted:

Could you help me understand why you would suggest an exhaust system before a fuel enhancements. Do you have any before and after data on a STOCK engine w/ and w/o a 4" exhaust as far as lower exhast temps and/or HP increases. I see lots of refferences to lower EGT's or moving air box restriction gauges or quicker to spoolup... BUT they have all been on trucks that have had a fuel system enhancement. My experiences did not show any gains in power with K&N or Exhaust W/O fuel enhancemnts. But I can only speak for one truck and how I use it.

I don't mean to be a pain on this. In fact I soon may be a customer for a 4" system (but if can't be loud!)as I have been running a w/ more power for quite a while and could stand to loose some EGT temps at higher RPM's.

I agree with gauges first. Once past the warrenty issues (if warrenty is in question) I would enhance fuel. After that (if funds are limited and depending how radical you got with fuel enhancement)your guages will tell you if you need to spend more money on exhaust and or air filter. In most cases I'll agree, once more fuel is being dumped, better air flow in and out will help get the most out of that setup.

Also, doesn't the 96 and up manuals have the larger injectors already.

We all have opinions but their is still more one can learn (speaking for myself).

jjw
ND

 

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OK JJW. Lets first talk about a non turbo engine so you can more easily understand what I am going to tell you.
Any engine will respond to reducing back pressure.
Back pressure in the exhaust, slows the piston on the exhaust stroke, this is what we call pumping losses, or horse power consumed by having to push out the spent gasses.
This also slows the engines abiltiy to accelerate, something a dyno can't measure, but can be felt seat of the pants when driving.
This same affect applies to turbo charged applications but 2 fold!
Exhaust back pressure slows turbo spool up and the piston!
A turbo has 4 seprate pressures to contend with, 1) atmospheric, 2)boost, 3)drive, and 4) backpressure from the exhaust.
If you reduce backpressure on the outlet of the turbo, the turbo sees this as higher drive pressure and spins faster, creating more boost pressure.
That covers the exhaust side and two pressures.
The turbo creates a low pressure, or vacumm;
on the engine side of the air filter and atmospheric pressure is pushing on the dirty side of the filter.
If you install a lower restriction filter the turbo is able to consume more air at the same shaft speed because of less pressure drop across the filter, therefore making more boost.
Whenever you make more boost the fuel pump responds by adding more fuel during acceleration up to the limits of the calibration.
Again you have reduced pumping losses, and increased the engines ability to accelerate.
On a turbo charged application it is a circular cycle, lower back pressure = higher drive pressure = more boost = quicker acceleration!

I hope this explains everything.
Ted Jannetty

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Owner and President, Jannetty Racing Enterprises Inc.
97 Dodge 3500 manual trans, US gear overdrive, 3. 54 posi, 235/85R16, mods- JRE Stage III Power Kit, 300hp injectors, JRE 4" Exhaust Kit, Cummins Chrome Kit, Prime Loc,
2 gauge dash mount with 50 lb boost guage and EGT. 97 Ski-Doo Formula 500 Deluxe/ Turbocharged 670 engine

 

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I still have trouble with a 12V and it's all mechanical linkage that more boost will effect fuel delivery. I though it was the other way around.

If this was the case, block the wastegate a and the cooresponding increase in boost would be real power when infact it is just more intake preasure and with no positive effect on power output.

Keep in mind Ted, in my case I pull trailers and have more use in sustained pulling power than for 1/4 mile quickness.

BTW, did you find any data on the positive effects of a 4" exhaust on a total stock pump truck?

(New additions) I think #2 in your list should be "Warrenty, do I want to keep it or not". This has nothing to do with engine reliabilty just who is responsible if something breaks!


jjw
Snowing in ND

[This message has been edited by JJW_ND (edited 10-01-1999). ]

 

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If you reduce pumping losses, the engine will be more efficient, run and cooler.
No it will not increase fuel delivery by disconnecting your waste gate.
The faster your turbo spools the faster your AFC moves and the better your resonse for passing.
No one can take away your warrantee no matter what you do, they only can deny a specific repair if a part you installed caused that specific falure!


Ted Jannetty

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Owner and President, Jannetty Racing Enterprises Inc.
97 Dodge 3500 manual trans, US gear overdrive, 3. 54 posi, 235/85R16, mods- JRE Stage III Power Kit, 300hp injectors, JRE 4" Exhaust Kit, Cummins Chrome Kit, Prime Loc,
2 gauge dash mount with 50 lb boost guage and EGT. 97 Ski-Doo Formula 500 Deluxe/ Turbocharged 670 engine

 

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Warranty..... You are correct about the full denial! BUT When your truck is tore apart (something broke)it is pretty hard to ask the dealership to put it back together so you can do somewhere else that will NOT deny warranty!

When you modify the engine or its ability to make more power than the factory specified you have opened the door to any failure that "could" be related to the increased power (I know you know this Ted!). These types of repairs usually cost the big bucks. I worried less about radios, and power window failures (as it relates to a power increase and warranty) then transmissions or injection pumps.

That is not to say if one is willing to deal with the consequences of "potential" denial of warranty (specifically related to the increased power) they should be free to enjoy and add anything they want. IT IS YOUR TRUCK! I did! and am glad I did.

The majority of readership of this board seems to be late model (full warranty) owners. They should be aware of the consequences. The editor of TDR (who loves more power) goes out of his way to stress the need to be responsible when it comes to warranty.

This warranty thing can go away real fast if one just hooks up with a tow-away company for about 6 months. You will have that 100K miles behind your and then your consciences will leave to alone.

jjw
ND

 

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I do not agree with your "Order" for upgrading power on a 12V. Why would you possibly want to buy a 4" exhaust before you buy a TST kit for $300 that is unless this exhaust can somehow produce the same amount of power per dollar that the TST kit does. It can not and will not happen. I think the article written in the members area was a great source of information and agree with it totally. I personally think the 4" exhaust should be done after the power kit and if you dont have anything else to do with your money but then again that is just my opinion

 

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Common sense, that's why! the same reason I recommended gauges first!
I also manufacture and sell the power kits.
And in some cases the exhaust temps can get to high with the stock exhaust, especially when the baffle breaks in the muffler, this is a common falure on Dodge Cummins trucks.

Ted Jannetty

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Owner and President, Jannetty Racing Enterprises Inc.
97 Dodge 3500 manual trans, US gear overdrive, 3. 54 posi, 235/85R16, mods- JRE Stage III Power Kit, 300hp injectors, JRE 4" Exhaust Kit, Cummins Chrome Kit, Prime Loc,
2 gauge dash mount with 50 lb boost guage and EGT. 97 Ski-Doo Formula 500 Deluxe/ Turbocharged 670 engine

 

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I do not think it is common sense. I run the tst power kit with only a straight pipe for a muffler which only costed around sixty dollars. The gauges I agree with the 4" pipe I do not and I have never had a problem with egt. But like I said just my opinion but no reason to get offended!

 

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John Berger just reposted the one in the 24 Valve section so I figured it wouldn't hurt to bring this one up here. Maybe if I used the search function more often I would learn more! There are also alot more options available now compared to when this was written so do your homework. L8tr, Mike