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Has anyone tried plumbing the breather hose into the exhaust down pipe with a check valve I have a light action valve and am thinking about doing this. Any thoughts????????
Memeber ericbu12 had a pretty slick setup where he ran it back into the valve cover. If you can find his post on it he had pictures and parts list as well if I recall.
I used heater hose to extend mine and just two weeks ago was under the truck and noticed mine had a significant hole in it where it had rubbed and noticed that the hose was very flimsy obviously not meant to be used for oil as it felt like it was breaking down. However I just replaced it with heater hose again as I had some laying around. The first one lasted about 120k.
Use the blue push-lok hose, either -8 or -10, whatever fits. We use it for oil and coolant lines on the race car, great stuff!!! Summitt has it pretty cheap
running it back into the engine would defeat the purpose of having it at all. think of the engine as a pump. now if it has to pump in both directions compression and to evacuate the crank then you are making it less efficient.
running it into the exhaust may work, if done correctly. you should start by plumbing it in at an angle like a wye pipe for refuge. your check valve may also be needed depending on how much restriction the exhaust has under a load.
I just extended mine down under the truck to blow on the ground under the cab.
Memeber ericbu12 had a pretty slick setup where he ran it back into the valve cover. If you can find his post on it he had pictures and parts list as well if I recall.
It seems to me like this would defeat the purpose of venting the crankcase. If the crankcase is allowed to operate under positive pressure I would think leaky oil seals would be a result, not to mention the trapped combustion gasses contaminating the engine lube oil.
I think running the crankcase vent tube into the exhaust stream would result in similar problems. It would only operate properly when exhaust stream velocity is great enough to draw a vacuum on the vent tube. You need the check valve to keep the exhaust gasses from entering the crankcase during low exhaust stream velocity (idling driving in town), but this would be similar to running the vent tube into the valve cover when driving under these conditions. If the engine always operated at high rpm, such as in a racecar, it would work fine. It is a good idea but the laws of physics just aren't going to allow it to operate flawlessly in a long term sense.
You could tap into your downpipe and see if you have negative pressure at idle, but I would be suprised if you find it to be so.
I think ericbu12 modified the valve cover so that the vent was there instead of the stock location. He didnt loop the stock vent to it. I extended my vent back by the fuel tank using cheap vynle hose from Home Depot. So far its not breaking down.
I just extended mine to the outside of the frame in front of the wheel. The hose extends straight out frome the engine at a 90 degree angle. There is a square hole in the frame that was perfect for a 1/2" conduit clamp. I ty-wrapped the hose to the clamp. I have never smelled my Rotella T since. And the radiator stays clean.
Any rocket scientists know the best angle to use to create a veturi effect ? I have a length of aluminized tubing should weld right up to the down pipe. I am ready to take the plunge what angle should I cut on the pipe and what angle of entry into the down-pipe?
I have 120k on a 12 foot piece of heater hose carefully routed to avoid bellies. It drops down a foot forward of the rear axle. No mess , no drips , no smell. It cost 10 bucks and was easy. I looked at it with pride as I tossed in my 2nd new VP44. Gotta love it.