Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Steve St.Laurent
Staff Alumni
I got my pusher lift pump installed this weekend and it's working GREAT! I bought a kit from Enterprise Engine Performance ( http://www.enterpriseengine.com ) for about the same cost as a replacement stock pump from Cummins. My fuel pressure gauge is now pegged beyond 16 psi and never goes down even under sustained WOT. The pump is in series along with the stock lift pump to feed it with fuel so that it hopefully will last longer as well as maintaining pressure. Installation was easy, only thing I did different from what Enterprise is doing is that I am running the pusher pump off of a relay whereas they are running them straight off of the existing power supply at the lift pump. After studying the schematics I was concerned about increasing the load on that circuit at all.
What I did was scotch lock to the red wire at the stock lift pump (on the lift pump side of the harness, not the engine side - in case of any problems it's easier to replace the lift pump harness than the engine one) and ran that to the switch side of a 30 amp (20a should be plenty) relay and then ran another wire from the other side of the switch to ground. Then I ran a wire from the fused side of the battery post in the PDC under the hood through a 20 amp fuse and then to the relay, then ran another wire (I used 12 gauge for all the wiring) from the other side of the relay to the pusher pump. I ran the wire inside of the existing wire loom that runs down the outside of the drivers side frame rail.
To mount the pump itself I freed the feed line (bottom line) from the frame rail (2 bolts and clamps) and then used a pipe cutter to cut the line at the front (you can see the front cut in the picture, the back cut was just to the rear of the bend in the line). Then I used a small deep well socket and an extension to bend the line out slightly and chamfered the inside of the lines to remove any burrs and cleaned out any shavings in there. Then I put the clamps back on (the rear clamp will only have the return line attached now). I then marked the holes for the bracket. I cut up a bicycle inner tube to make a rubber isolator to keep noise from transmitting through the frame. I used the supplied self tapping bolts and put the bolt through a lock washer first, then through a small piece (1" x 1") of inner tube, then through the bracket, and then through another piece of inner tube, then through the frame. On one of the mounting bolts I attached a small wire lead to connect to the negative terminal on the fuel pump. Then I put the supplied brass fittings into the fuel pump, and mounted the fuel pump through the supplied rubber gromets (I did have to add one extra washer on each of the studs so the pump was tight). Then used the supplied hose to connect to the fuel lines and hose clamped them at either end. Lastly, I connected the wire coming from the relay to the positive terminal on the pump.
Then I primed the system by turning the ignition on and bumping the starter to run the pumps (you will hear the pusher pump if it's working) several times. Then cranked her up! WHOOSH - fuel pressure gauge pegged!
You can barely hear the pump operating when at idle but once rolling you can't hear it. Hopefully this will be the answer to my continuing lift pump problems (I went through 4 stock lift pumps in 60,000 miles). A big thank you goes out to Enterprise for researching this pump with Carter and coming up with a solution that's easy to implement!
I did a bunch of other things to the truck this weekend (replaced the TPS, MAP and IAT sensors) so I'm not sure exactly what made the difference but my truck is running AWESOME! I'm hitting 41 psi of boost and maintaining 38 psi whereas I was spiking to 40 and maintaining 36 before, it also builds boost MUCH quicker than before! Funny thing is that the truck is running faster (by stopwatch) but it's smoking less than before (still smoking good though ). Here's a couple of pictures of the install:
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What I did was scotch lock to the red wire at the stock lift pump (on the lift pump side of the harness, not the engine side - in case of any problems it's easier to replace the lift pump harness than the engine one) and ran that to the switch side of a 30 amp (20a should be plenty) relay and then ran another wire from the other side of the switch to ground. Then I ran a wire from the fused side of the battery post in the PDC under the hood through a 20 amp fuse and then to the relay, then ran another wire (I used 12 gauge for all the wiring) from the other side of the relay to the pusher pump. I ran the wire inside of the existing wire loom that runs down the outside of the drivers side frame rail.
To mount the pump itself I freed the feed line (bottom line) from the frame rail (2 bolts and clamps) and then used a pipe cutter to cut the line at the front (you can see the front cut in the picture, the back cut was just to the rear of the bend in the line). Then I used a small deep well socket and an extension to bend the line out slightly and chamfered the inside of the lines to remove any burrs and cleaned out any shavings in there. Then I put the clamps back on (the rear clamp will only have the return line attached now). I then marked the holes for the bracket. I cut up a bicycle inner tube to make a rubber isolator to keep noise from transmitting through the frame. I used the supplied self tapping bolts and put the bolt through a lock washer first, then through a small piece (1" x 1") of inner tube, then through the bracket, and then through another piece of inner tube, then through the frame. On one of the mounting bolts I attached a small wire lead to connect to the negative terminal on the fuel pump. Then I put the supplied brass fittings into the fuel pump, and mounted the fuel pump through the supplied rubber gromets (I did have to add one extra washer on each of the studs so the pump was tight). Then used the supplied hose to connect to the fuel lines and hose clamped them at either end. Lastly, I connected the wire coming from the relay to the positive terminal on the pump.
Then I primed the system by turning the ignition on and bumping the starter to run the pumps (you will hear the pusher pump if it's working) several times. Then cranked her up! WHOOSH - fuel pressure gauge pegged!
You can barely hear the pump operating when at idle but once rolling you can't hear it. Hopefully this will be the answer to my continuing lift pump problems (I went through 4 stock lift pumps in 60,000 miles). A big thank you goes out to Enterprise for researching this pump with Carter and coming up with a solution that's easy to implement!I did a bunch of other things to the truck this weekend (replaced the TPS, MAP and IAT sensors) so I'm not sure exactly what made the difference but my truck is running AWESOME! I'm hitting 41 psi of boost and maintaining 38 psi whereas I was spiking to 40 and maintaining 36 before, it also builds boost MUCH quicker than before! Funny thing is that the truck is running faster (by stopwatch) but it's smoking less than before (still smoking good though
). Here's a couple of pictures of the install:#ad#ad
