Pusher Pump Help Needed Fast!

[EMDDIESEL]

I am trying to install my pusher pump from Enterprise. I want to do the wiring first obviously. The problem is it is IMPOSSIBLE to work on the fuel pump wiring. It is too far down in the engine compartment and the wires are wrapped in some heavy tape inside the loom that i cant get off with one hand.

I can only get one hand down by the pump so i cant hold the wires to unwrap them or use a knife to cut the tape off. I tried taking the fuel filter housing out and it does not help.

IS THERE ANYWHERE ELSE I CAN TAP FOR THE RELAY TURN ON??? THERE HAS TO BE!.



Aside from being impossible to accsess, i dont like the idea of using Tap Ins in such a dirty area. The wiring there is covered with dirt and road sand. Soldering is out of the question being that i cant even get the tape off the wires, let alone cut, splice and solder down there.

Also i was told to tap the red wire to the pump, THERE IS NO RED WIRE TO THE PUMP!. Black or yellow (i am guessing yellow would be the one).

I am already mad about this "Kit" being i waited 2 weeks for it (I was told i was waiting for a "Wiring harness" to arrive so they could complete the "kit") and it was nothing more then a Carter pump i can get myself from Summit or any auto parts store and a generic 30amp relay with a matching plug with 6" leads. and an 8" piece of Napa fuel hose. No "wiring harness", NO instuctions or install information at all, just parts in a box.

If tapping that fuel pump electrical line is the only relay turn on source i have, i am throwing this pump in garbage and will just change my Stock lift pump when needed. Its ALOT easier then this

I would really appreciate it if anybody could tell me where i could tap a wire in a MUCH more accsessible area that is not going to be constantly exposed to water

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I don't think there is a better location to tap into, the wire goes from the ECM (bolted to the block) to the lift pump according to the schematics so I believe anywhere else would be even less accessable. It's DEFINATELY very tight down there, connecting the scotch-lock to the lift pump supply wire was the thing that took the longest for me. The yellow wire is the correct one, I hooked mine up to the wires on the other side of the connector (lift pump side) where the wire is red, figuring that if there ever was a problem with the wiring it's easy to change out the lead to the lift pump versus changing out the wire to the ECM. One thing that would help you get to the area in question would be to remove the intake horn which would give you better access. If you have one of the newest pumps the wires going to the pump will be removable, you could remove that part and do the connections up top and then reconnect them. Just a few thoughts.

 

[CRuD]

Sounds like a piece of I TRIED TO BY-PASS THE CUSSING FILTER to me

Good luck EMD.

Soldering is the only way to join wires as far as I am concerned.

Anyone know of a better kit?



Pete what did you do??

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

CRuD, no matter who's "kit" you go with you will have to attach to the wire that EMD is having trouble with. Either that or you will have to install a switch in the cab so that you can manually turn it on and off - that wire is from the ECM and turns the lift pump on and off. I'm very happy with the one I got, when I bought it all it came with was the pump itself and the fuel line. I went out and bought a relay and wired that up - after hearing about it Enterprise decided that the relay was a good idea and included it in the kit. EMD is correct that you could buy the pump anywhere - however I had not heard of anyone using this pump until I spoke with Enterprise. I bought it from them because they spent the time researching it and coming up with a solution. I'd like to see some install instructions with it too, but I've written up instructions on my install that pretty much spells everything out - http://128.242.249.86/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=179050#post179050 . I personally think it's worthwile to support vendors who do the R&D to come up with a solution. JMHO



-Steve

 

[jjohnson1177]

Where are you guys mounting the relay at on this deal?

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I used a relay with a metal tab at the top of it and used one of the bolts that holds the underhood fuse box to the fender to attach it. Eventually I plan on putting it inside the PDC (underhood fuse box), once I figure out what kind of connectors and tool I need to use to put terminals in there, there's a few spare relay sockets in there (but no terminals in them).



-Steve

 

[Red360]

Pusher pump

This past Wednesday, Shooter and I installed the pusher pumps in our trucks. I will say that tapping into the fuel pump wiring harness is the hardest part. What I did was (carefully) use a razor knife to slit the tape holding the two wires together, The connector is coated with dielectric grease, so corrosion shouldn't be a problem. Once the connector was in place, I sealed it with silicone grease. I mounted the relays on the firewall right behind the ABS controller. If you look at the firewall, there is a dimble in the sheet metal.

 

[EMDDIESEL]

After a little over 4 hours, i removed the black rubbery duct tape like wire covering on the lift pump wires.

Now my next problem, Since the kit came with no instructions of any kind, i have a relay with a plug and 5 wires and no idea which ones go where. Evan posted something in another thread on this topic about which contacts on the relay to use. I just tried that and when i hooked the realy to power, the fuse blew and there were sparks, so something is not right, i double checked the connections and they were exactly as Evan said, so my only guess is this is some special relay that is NOT the same as most.



The wires i have from the relay plug are as follows:



Terminal 87 GREEN wire



Terminal 85 WHITE wire



Terminal 30 BLACK wire



Terminal 86 RED wire



Terminal 87a BLUE wire



Does anybody know where is connect these wires too?



The Realy is made by BEULER and is marked 12V 30/40A



Anybody?

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I just looked at Evan's instructions on the terminals and it looks right, but could be clearer. Try this:



85 - connect to the lift pump wire



86 - connect to ground



30 - connect to a 12v source (I hooked mine to the battery terminal in the PDC on the fused side of the main 140a fuse)



87 - Connect this to the positive side of the lift pump wires, then connect the negative side of the lift pump to ground



Let me know if that doesn't work for you.



-Steve

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Thanks, i am going to try it right now, but what about the 5th wire? it does not get used?



And why is Black not ground and red not positive?

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

You could swap 85 with 86 and 30 with 87 and it wouldn't make any difference - a relay is just a switch that's thrown by 12vdc, doesn't really matter positive or negative. You just have to have the two sides of the switch seperate. The 5th wire doesn't get used because you don't need it. Pin 87 is connected to pin 30 only when you have 12vdc between pin 85 and 86. Pin 87a is connected to pin 30 only when you DON'T have 12vdx between pin 85 and 86. That way you can use the relay as a normally open or a normally closed switch.



-Steve

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Well, its all done, thanks Steve for the relay info, it worked fine. All in all, it was a huge pain in the Butt to do.

I have a short box so i think that is part of the problem. Mounting the pump is difficult since the short distance between the crossmember and fuel tank blocks almost everything. Cutting the lines with the tubing cutter was also hard since you cant pull the lines out far enough to rotate the cutter all the way around. So what happens is you will have fuel leaking all over the place till the line is cut all the way through. It took almost an hour to cut the lines.

If i had to do it again, honestly, i dont think i would. Its ALOT easier to change out the stock lift pump. I would rather do that every year then go through what i went through with this.

Good luck to anyone else who wants to do this, if you have a short bed, be prepared.

 

[Shooter]

As I posted earlier, due to the limited space on the short bed I mounted mine at the front edge of the tanny cross member. My pressures are: pre aux pump at injector pump: idle - 11#, wot - 6#. Post aux pump at injector pump: idle 18#, wot - 17#. See sig for Vaugn MacK. fuel line upgrades.

Red 360 and I took about 2. 5 hrs on my short bed. I really appreciated Scot's ( GO NAVY, ship for 6 )help and his huge garage to work in. We aso installed my RBF air filter, 50* egt drop m / t and turbo noise is less than w/ stock airbox and snorkle.

 

[Mopar-muscle]

with all the panic over this pusher pump deal i think i will have to throw 70 bucks down the drain and do a test to see if this does really do anything other than log jjam more fuel at the inlet to A) stock fuel filter , B) inlet to the VP44 ... only i'm not going to hack my stock fuel line .



i do agree the pump needs to be mounted closer to the tank , but there seems to be a HUGE panic attack going on ...

 

[EMDDIESEL]

I am thinking a bit like you too John, while i am glad i have the extra assurance of the Pusher pump, at the same time, with a fuel pressure gauge, i can monitor when my stock pump fails and then deal with it then.

As i mentioned, when i installed my fuel pressure gauge last week, i had 4psi at idle. Who knows how long my truck was like that and i could not tell there was anything wrong with it. My truck is stock now, but if and when i seriously BOMB it, i guess i am prepared.

I really want to replace all the fuel lines and Banjo bolts with AN fittings and Stainless steel braided hose from the tank all the way to the front and everything in between. But i really dont want to void my warranty. If my Injection pump ever goes, they will take one look at all those lines and i seriously doubt they will honor my warranty.

Does anybody offer drilled out Banjo fittings?, are they worth it?. I would like to do anything possible to increase fuel volume without being noticeable to the dealer. Suggestions?

 

[Mopar-muscle]

yes , drilled banjos will help

yes , ray torresdale (sp?) sells the modified banjos , real cheap , i did my own , before i ditched them , no big deal , in fact i have a pair of schraders already done and can do 3 more , i picked up 2 psi when i did them , also you need to drill out the banjo fittings between the stock lift pump and the fuel filter , i'll drill mine and swap you all the pieces , i'll send them down with mass diesel , when you swap them out you just mail me back yours . this will remove the factory restrictions .



as far as voiding the warranty , i'd like to see the data on a couple more psi killing the VP44 , seriously i bbet they would give you a bigger hassle for a failed VP44 with 22psi at the inlet with your present arrangement , but thats me . do a search , there is a 4plus page thread on this very subject , seems most people read it and then forgot it .

 

[EMDDIESEL]

Thanks John, i really appreciate it, sorry you are not going to make it. Driving your truck changed my whole outlook on the Ram!. I am trying to find the thread you are reffering too, still no luck. If and when i find it, ill post a link here.