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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Pyromiter EGT's

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Cracked Block

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MLee

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When the EGT'S stay lower than they used to, is this a good sign the probe has gone bad?

But I also went back to my stock fuel plate slide forward and the cover also slide forward. I pulled our parleys way-I 80 east bound and got 600* out of the gauge with trailer in tow @7K.

Do I stay with the same "K" thermocouple or will any probe work?

Will cleaning it help? This started all at once. And it is about 10 years old, Westech Combo gauge. Where to get one?

You can see by my sig. that lower EGT's are the order of the day by my mods. Could it be this new wonderful fuel we are using? Some thing else the concider

Marv.
 
Also, I was wondering if there is a Ohm reading to verify if the thermocouple is working?

Thanks Marv.
 
I'm not sure if that's possible, 600 degrees up Parley's? I run more than that not towing on a flat road. I would suspect the TC has gone belly up. Where is it mounted?
 
I new there was something I forgot, It's post, but, I always add 300* to the reading. Pulling this grade I have always watched it never gone over 1100* corrected, I just back out of it and realy watch it from Lambs canyon up.

I called Westech and was told the Ohm reading should be 2. 50, but which lead? the white or black, tried both could not get a stable reading so I spect the TC is toast. But good news Geno's has them.

Thanks for your replies.

Marv.
 
An ohms reading would be taken across both leads. There should be no reading from either lead to ground. But, black and white is not the correct color for type K thermocouple lead.



You cannot take 300 degrees and expect to be accurate. The real difference varies with the load and rpms. you are trying to protect the valves and pistons from meltdown, so you need to be reading their environment, which is pre-turbo. Anthing else is just a guess.
 
1100 sounds more normal. When I pull Parley's, I try keep the EGT's around 1000 to 1100 and the TC in my truck is pre-turbo.



As WestTN said, take the ohm measurment across both leads.
 
An ohms reading would be taken across both leads. There should be no reading from either lead to ground. But, black and white is not the correct color for type K thermocouple lead.



You cannot take 300 degrees and expect to be accurate. The real difference varies with the load and rpms. you are trying to protect the valves and pistons from meltdown, so you need to be reading their environment, which is pre-turbo. Anthing else is just a guess.



This is an original prob from westech and they are black and white. They connect to red and black on the gauge.

300* has always been suggested as a round about figure, and the guys that have both pre and post gauges say that this is a good figure. Have you ever wondered why OTRT thermocouples are located in the down pipe, post turbo? to save the turbo if the tip comes off. One never knows, and the E brake is drilled for the prob.

Marv.
 
Be sure to disconnect the leads to take the Ohm reading. The gauge reads milliVolts to measure temp. You can use a good multimeter and convert mV to degrees for K type TCs using a chart to confirm the gauge reading; shouldn't be hard to find a conversion chart online, I'd try Omega.com first. K types are almost always red and yellow leads so you might confirm with Westech.
 
Thanks JP This TC is what was in the kit when purchased so I have to assume that it is right. Took the reading last nite, it was 2. 3-2. 4, close but I do not know if there is a + or -.

Marv.
 
food for thought on the pre vs. post turbo mount of the Thermocouple, what I have noticed is I can make the pre turbo reading jump much quicker to 1100 or 1200 degrees than I can make the post turbo jump to even 900 degrees. So while you have your foot into it and you're waiting for the post turbo reading to reach 900 and then back out of it, you may be running closer to 1300 pre turbo and not know it.
 
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