Quick question about Grid Heater starts in cold weather.

[AH64ID]

I started last winter at -15°F without a grid heater or plugged in. These I-6's start awesome and the grid heater is mostly a emissions thing until you get down to 10°F and below.

Surely you have been below 66° and seen your WTS light do it's thing?

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I actually have it to charge my phone and run small electronic devices in the event my power goes out at my house in the event of a hurricane or other occurrence

Also, I was told never to jump start another car with my truck because it could blow a module. So I carry it (fully charged) in case someone asks me for a jump start. Or in case one of my other vehicles needs a boost

A decent jump pack would be easier (and safer) to carry. Most now come with 12v outlets and USB ports.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Yeah, I was thinking of just strapping some cardboard on the front.

Put it behind the grill.

 

[AH64ID]

A decent jump pack would be easier (and safer) to carry. Most now come with 12v outlets and USB ports.

Exactly. I wouldn't want to carry an extra battery around. A jump pack is stronger, easier to use, and smaller.

 

[Newsa]

I started last winter at -15°F without a grid heater or plugged in. These I-6's start awesome and the grid heater is mostly a emissions thing until you get down to 10°F and below.

Surely you have been below 66° and seen your WTS light do it's thing?

Have seen the coil light go on for a second. But I never really stopped at run. There was a second or 2 delay in crank. But I wasn't sure the proper start procedure. I now know I should not go straight to crank. But leave it in the on/run position until the light goes out.

 

[Newsa]

Exactly. I wouldn't want to carry an extra battery around. A jump pack is stronger, easier to use, and smaller.

That's what I have a multipurpose jump pack.

 

[rashwor]

I generally start mine with one cycle of the grid heaters. Just turn the key to run and wait for the grid heater indicator to go out and then turn to start. We probably are not any colder here than where you call home.

If you want more than one cycle of the grid heaters before starting, turn the key to run and wait for the grid heater indicator to go out, then turn the key off and back to run. The grid heater will come back on and you can wait for the indicator to go out a second time before turning the key to start. I have done this a couple of times when we have been in the teens and it works well.

 

[AEdelheit]

Also, I was told never to jump start another car with my truck because it could blow a module. So I carry it (fully charged) in case someone asks me for a jump start. Or in case one of my other vehicles needs a boost

Gonna have to disagree with that, I have jump started alot of vehicles with my truck and some with newer 2013+ trucks, If someone blows a module then they likely wouldnt know how to even pop the hood to hook up the jumper cables.

 

[Newsa]

Gonna have to disagree with that, I have jump started alot of vehicles with my truck and some with newer 2013+ trucks, If someone blows a module then they likely wouldnt know how to even pop the hood to hook up the jumper cables.

Well, I was told by a tow truck driver with a newer Ram 5500

 

[JR]

I started last winter at -15°F without a grid heater or plugged in. These I-6's start awesome and the grid heater is mostly a emissions thing until you get down to 10°F and below.

Surely you have been below 66° and seen your WTS light do it's thing?

I have seen 4BT and 6BT powered construction equipment as new as 06ish With no grid heaters and they start just fine in below zero weather. As you said, they are primarily there to aid in combustion for emissions purpose, once Cummins went to the 6.7 and DPF grid heaters came along also.

 

[JR]

Well, I was told by a tow truck driver with a newer Ram 5500

I'd imagine that has as much to do with all the people he's rescued that have hooked up their jumpers backwards and roached something as anything else...

 

[Newsa]

I'd imagine that has as much to do with all the people he's rescued that have hooked up their jumpers backwards and roached something as anything else...

He didn't say anything about that, but did say that it is less likely to blow something when hooking to the driver side battery.

 

[slingshot383]

I would also put the winter front on the truck, it allows it to warm up a little faster, and the truck will still get plenty air from below the bumper.

 

[gsbrockman]

A tow truck driver once told me wolverines make greattttttttttttt house pets.

 

[Newsa]

A tow truck driver once told me wolverines make greattttttttttttt house pets.

https://youtu.be/v1IHp8HRMTY

 

[Thump]

My dingbat truck throws a grid heater performance code nearly every time I let it do its thing. So, I just go straight to start in the mild winters here in central AZ.
One thing I do like is manually upping the idle after about 10 seconds of run time with the exhaust brake on and setting the cruise control (turn it on in park and tap Set) until the coolant temp is above 100° F. Kills fuel mileage, but I don't get the loud diesel sound of a cold engine when I leave the driveway (not like the sound isn't some of my favorite music or anything)

 

[AH64ID]

My dingbat truck throws a grid heater performance code nearly every time I let it do its thing. So, I just go straight to start in the mild winters here in central AZ.
One thing I do like is manually upping the idle after about 10 seconds of run time with the exhaust brake on and setting the cruise control (turn it on in park and tap Set) until the coolant temp is above 100° F. Kills fuel mileage, but I don't get the loud diesel sound of a cold engine when I leave the driveway (not like the sound isn't some of my favorite music or anything)

I’d guess you have a failed circuit or relay with the grid heater. It’s probably not a expensive fix.

I’d also give it a more than 10 seconds before engaging the EB. EB use on a cold motor will increase soot and oxidation in the oil, especially cold and fast idle.

Let it warm up for 1-3 minutes and then drive it easy. If you need to use the EB, vs driving it, then let it fast idle for 3-5 minutes before the EB is engaged. The preferred warmup is easy driving.

 

[JR]

Mine will idle up on it's own after 1-2 minutes if you don't touch the throttle or brake pedal (haven't actually timed it).
I assume they've timed that way for a reason.

 

[AH64ID]

Mine will idle up on it's own after 1-2 minutes if you don't touch the throttle or brake pedal (haven't actually timed it).
I assume they've timed that way for a reason.

If it’s really cold they will go to 1000 as soon as you start it (ECT less than 32°F on 3rd gens). This improves combustion, and decreases wet stacking. Prolonged low idle in cold ambient temps should be avoided. Cummins defines prolonged as over 10 minutes.

On 3rd gens the extended idle feature is activated after 2 minutes, if the ECT is above 32° and below 180° and IAT/ambient temps are low. I have decreased it to 1 minute on my truck and I am considering dropping in to 30 seconds.

 

[Thump]

I’d guess you have a failed circuit or relay with the grid heater. It’s probably not a expensive fix.

I’d also give it a more than 10 seconds before engaging the EB. EB use on a cold motor will increase soot and oxidation in the oil, especially cold and fast idle.

Let it warm up for 1-3 minutes and then drive it easy. If you need to use the EB, vs driving it, then let it fast idle for 3-5 minutes before the EB is engaged. The preferred warmup is easy driving.

Yeah, likely simple. Now that the weather is better (AS desert) and I have some time off coming up, I plan to do the EGR and cooler cleaning. Since I'll have the top off the engine I'll take a look at the grid heater, too.
Wasn't aware of the soot load and such in the oil. Haven't seen anything in my oil analysis, but I can barely read those things and am likely changing too soon (<7,500 mile interval)
I'll get off the EB, I guess thanks