R&R Ball Joints

[GeoVeo]

Dealer couldn't align front end due to ball joint wear and wants $1000 parts & labor. I can see some play in the lower joints and my tires are showing some scalloping. I'm considering doing this myself - doesn't look too bad according to the service manual. I plan to use NAPA replacements with zirks and buy/rent a ball joint service tool. I have a Dana 60 4x4. Any advice from out there? Thanks

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'94 2500 Driftwood, Auto 4X4, 4. 10

 

[BertM]

I am in the same boat. My lower joints are beat out and are on my list. From everything that I have read, get the rotors off, and be very carefull pulling the axle shafts to prevent nicking the seals. Autozone has the joint press for free rental.

 

[illflem]

I guess I'm lucky,for some reason all my ball joints came with zerks(trucks made in Canada?)
and haven't had to replace them so this trick may not be possible on all of the joints since I've never had to try it,but is the easiest. Remove the ball joint cotter pin & nut,then with a hammer in each hand strike both sides of the rod where the ball joint stud passes though at the same time. The ball joint can usually be removed by hand after one or two good hits. Sort of like taking drastic measures against a stubborn zit.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[Morphious]

A ball joint tool only costs around 10-15 bucks also get a good handled sledge (around 5 to 10 lbs). With your trucks not being that old you should be able to get them out without much problem. I have had to use a torch to heat them up on my older chevys, but they had 100k + before I changed the ball joints (just the quality of parts, much better on Chevys).

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99 2500 4x4 QC Std transmission, Purple, 10 Disc Sony Changer, 285x75Rx16 BFG Mudders, Gooseneck hitch, 275lb King Klaw front bumper, Towing/Camper setup.

DDIII's, Exhaust, TTPM, Clutch, Guages are now installed an it rocks (fastest farm truck around).

1965 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup, 350-350hp/2spd powerglide, PS, PB, Disc Brakes on the front, Tilt, Fuel Cell, 3. 73 posi.

26ft Gooseneck Flatbed Trailer.

1960 Farmal 340 Diesel Tractor

 

[GeoVeo]

Thanks for the responses.

BertM, What year and how many miles on your truck? I have 157K+ but I think the lower joints have been worn awhile - with my regular tire rotation it's taken awhile for me to notice the tire wear.

Now I'm trying to decide on a source for the ball joints. I believe NAPA carries Perfect Circle and CarQuest uses Moog - can't remember who AutoZone uses. Anyone have any preferences and reasons behind them?

Thanks, GeoVeo

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'94 2500 Driftwood, Auto 4X4, 4. 10

[This message has been edited by GeoVeo (edited 03-07-2001). ]

 

[BertM]

I always forget to post sig.
94, 2500, 5 spd, TST #6, RE0880, 33 x 12. 50 x 16. 50, 90,000 miles.
My mileage is low because a have an 86 Bronco with a 351 that I drove 60% of the time. It finally burned all of its valves and has about 50 horsepower, so it is in the garage.
I found that my joints were loose when I change rotors. When I torqed the 1 3/4" axle nut, the joint was moving on me. The steering is not bad at this point.

 

[Big MAK]

I just had my drivers side upper and lower balljoints replaced for $200 (included an allignment of-course). The dealer wants $1000!!!! Go to a reputable suspension shop; the dealer isn't one.


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Big MAK
98. 5 ISB 5spd 4x4 Quad Cab 3500, 275s and Original PowerMax
A "WARRANTY FREE" ZONE
https://www.turbodieseltrucks.com