radiator install this weekend

[mazdarotary]

Hey guys I bought a replacement radiator(modine lifetime) a few monthsa gao just because mine was looking pretty bad. Well I finally have a free weekend coming up ina few days,and was planning on installing it. Any gotchas I should look out for?I was thinking of just doing the radiator,maybe a new cap,hoses,and most likely a new thermostat. Does this sound like a good idea?Should I replace the water pump as well?If so how hard is it to replace,and where would be the best place to get one?Oh yeah is where is the best place to get a good quality thermostat?One more question what do you guys think of just draining the coolant and then re-filling?Should it be flushed?Oh crap that is more than one question. Oh well. Oh yeah what do you guys think of the quick fill stuff they sell now?I have used it before in my rotaries. I know I am paying for water but what the heck I was buying distilled water before for the cooling systems(well water at home). Thanks in advance guys.



Chris

92 D250 CC

83 Mazda RX-7

74 Mazda REPU

 

[banzaitoyota]

Chris: I would carefully inspect you fan and fan clutch. Replace all hoses and clamps, new Cummins T-Stat and perform a flush with the old components installed. If budget permitted I would use Evans NPG +

 

[JLEONARD]

Should I replace the water pump as well

That's your call... it's easy to get to either way.

 

[JKurley]

I agree with banzaitoyota re the stat- I went through two brand new Stants @ $8 each, getting the engine real hot.

finally bit the bullet and paid $26 at Cummins, and have had zero problems in 100,000 miles. Also agree with EC Jay- easiest water pump in the world to change-two 10mm bolts with a ratcheting box end, and youre home free

 

[BCaldwell]

Chris,



Check the fan real good there was a post not too long ago about the blades cracking and causing major dammage. Get the thermostat from Cummins then you know that it is right for your truck



Bill

 

[tugboatphil]

I wouldn't mess with the water pump until you get coolant out the weep hole. Like Jay said, it's easy enough to get at.

 

[btoscano]

I would replace the t-stat especially if your temp guage is swinging back and forth...



I replaced the water pump about 5 months after the radiator, I lost about 2. 5 gallons of coolant so that's the only advantage of doing it sooner than later. Other than that, the water pump is real easy to change. Just two bolts up front once you get the serp belt off.



Hoses are hard to come by. If yours is non-IC then nobody seems to have a proper fitting lower rad hose. I'm still using my original but I think Dayco has one somwhere.



I used the Fleetguard blue premix coolant. It took 4 gallons.



While everything was apart and the t-stat was out I stuff the garden hose all around flushing out the old coolant. The PO's never cared to change it from the way things looked.



Good luck,

 

[mazdarotary]

so i can just drain the system and then take a garden hose to the engine hoses,and heater core lines and that would be a sufficient flush?I have heard many people tell me to get a kit that goes onto one of the heater hoses and then run the garden hose with the system all complete but open at the radiator. Am i missing some thing here. The coolant isn't in bad shape look wise right now and the radiator isn't leaking but it just looks like it may at any point in time. The temp gauge never fluctuates,but I would like to replace the thermostat anyway.



Chris

 

[mazdarotary]

well guys I did the radiator install this weekend,with only a few minor issues. One was i didn't have the 52mm wrench for removing the fan so I just left it on there. It sorta sucked that way but I got the job done non the less. The only other issue was when I went to Cummins to get the thermostat I bought 4 gallons of the super blue pre-mix coolant thinking i really needed like 3 gallons but figured 4 gallons would be better. Well after all 4 went in and the system was still a bit low I was concerned. I started it up and took it for a ride to heat it up. Turned on the heat and waited for the thermostat to open. It did,and the truck never went over the second line just like it always has. So I am thinking it is ok to leave it a bit low for a little while until I get up to cummins later this week. the beauty part is I only drive the truck about 20 miles a day now that I have a company car. Do you guys know if I can get that cummins coolant shipped to me?I liked the idea of it being pre-mixed,and that it was Cummins coolant so I bought it. I guess I may be crazy for spending so much money on coolant but I always used distilled water any way in my cooling systems because I don't trust my well water in the system.



You guys were right about the water pump,it is easy to get to. I didn't buy a new one or re-place it because it doesn't leak yet,and I figured I could get to it easy enough later on. Thanks for the info.





Chris

92 D250 CC

74 Mazda REPU

83 Mazda RX-7

 

[bgilbert]

How low we talking? Can you see the coolant on the top fins of the radiator? Add coolant to the overflow bottle to the top mark yet? I'd say you're ok if you can see coolant inside the radiator when cold, until you can get to Cummins for more, as long as your not 'working' the truck.

 

[mazdarotary]

I can see the coolant in the radiator,but I didn't have enough to fill the overflow bottle. There was still some old coolant in there that I didn't drain out. I am not working the truck either just a short liesurly drive without any traffic lights either. Thanks for the input.



Chris

 

[csnider]

Hey Mazdarotary,

I'm gonna need a new radiator soon. . Is your new Modine all metal? If so, could you please give me the part #. If anyone else has a suggestion for a good radiator feel free to reply... Thanks... Chuck