Here I am

Rant (feel free to ignore)

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DtcU0001 , scanner and ecm not communicating?

When you insert the key fob in the socket

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I'm not outright refusing the inspection. They can't or won't provide me a date/timeframe/action plan. 3-10 days before the inspector looks at it. Then they have to wait for his report before they can act on. I had a planned holiday with my family from the 14th through the end of the year. I don't want to give up any vacation time with my family so that FCA can give me the short end of the stick. In defense of the dealership, the service manager offered me a loaner for the duration of the inspection and repairs. They even said they'd look the other way if I returned it with a coating of dog hair.

Sounds like a decent dealership. Trying to do the right thing, its a nice rig for sure if you need it to pull something and they can't fix it got to do what you have too.

Rockauto has Mopar drive shafts listed, looks like around a 1k repair if you bought the parts and had someone throw it together.

As far as a loaner.....
We have an '18 2500 6.4 4DR 4WD HD Snow Chief Tradesman with the work vinyl, its a really nice truck, also one '17 1500 2DR 4WD and an 18' 1500 4DR 4WD so if they had a 4WD loaner I dont think there is a bad FCA truck in the lineup nowadays as far as a loaner goes. They all have SAT radio and the sort, nothing as nice as what you have but they get the job done and we have them on the road from TX to IA to NJ all the time. I would for sure throw my family in any of them for vacation.

Hope they come to a conclusion for you soon and you can get on you trip with your truck.
 
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I notice that the breaks have rusted over really soon. A small amount of sheen is visible on the right portion of the joint but everything else looks like it's been sitting out in the elements for a while.
 
The chloride that some states use will destroy parts, corrode seems, chaff connections, rust just about anything it rides on... MY Guess this is just the beginning for this owner, as the years pass all lubricated parts will start to fail, connection will chaff triggering CEL most of the CEL will be those connections related to SCR.. maybe some owners will chime that have followed My recommendations to dia- electric every connections and the CEL have disappeared. OP if you do NOT Dia-electric connections and start washing under body surface's with good engine Hygiene maintenance , If you keep that truck you will hate it.

I have parcel ownership in a nationwide commercial cleaning Business, We have Battle MN and other States in it abuse on road chemicals causing Billions in unnecessary repairs, there stand is always its a safety concern, and Yes the Chloride WORKS, We have seen it cost Mickey trailer and Coke $Millions in repairs.
 
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I notice that the breaks have rusted over really soon. A small amount of sheen is visible on the right portion of the joint but everything else looks like it's been sitting out in the elements for a while.

I would guess, yes. Probably was a few days after, before the pictures. That was some type of impact break. Either a joint failed and caused the bind or like OZ said the center pin broke and allowed the joints to lock up and snap. Or the OP hit a big ole rock...
 
When the type of Chloride use on America Roadways penetrate the protecting seals it will attract moisture, it will mix with the moisture and become highly acidic.

Look what it did to the OP joint and the contacting surfaces, If you want to stop this it Dia-electric every connections, Undercoat everything, This includes the harnesses and Joints with good Rubberize products and you must practice good vehicle Hygiene on all surfaces, that includes engine and under body.
 
TC - very very little salting is done on Ca highways. The only two hwy's in Ca that get a very small salt brine is hwy 80 (Donner Summit) and hwy 50. Ca outlawed heavy salt use on the roads decades ago and sand and lava cinder are used instead.
 
OK Jhawes thanks for the info, I would have to ask does the vehicle travel to states that use Road Chemical's? or it was driven under water for lengthy time frames. that's a lot of corrosion for CA?
 
Lots of vehicles get used for the long term in high-salt (snow-belt areas)...I've driven 10 year old Toyota 4x4's in those types of conditions and the driveline components lasted just fine (with maintenance obviously).

There is absolutely no reason that salt exposure should cause this kind of malfunction within such a short period of time. The OP's truck is relatively new, no?
 
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I notice that the breaks have rusted over really soon. A small amount of sheen is visible on the right portion of the joint but everything else looks like it's been sitting out in the elements for a while.
The parts sat in the snow for about an hour or so. When I found them I just tossed them in the bed with my wet gloves and the factory jack I was using to try and extricate the truck from the rock it was wedged against.
 
T
I would guess, yes. Probably was a few days after, before the pictures. That was some type of impact break. Either a joint failed and caused the bind or like OZ said the center pin broke and allowed the joints to lock up and snap. Or the OP hit a big ole rock...
That joint is immediately behind the transmission cross member; It could not be impacted by a rock.
 
The Yoke failed, (Snapped) BC the U-Joint Failed, it stressed the Yoke beyond its strength when trying to get it un-stuck. The U-joint failed because of corrosion to the cup bearings allowing movement and BOOM to the Joint ,Followed by BOOM to the YOKE, all this mostly happened in less than 1 Second.

The Question at hand should it be covered under Warranty, IMO , Yes.

On Edit , Warranty on Joint and Drive Shaft Only.
 
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My issue is not much that it broke: It's a mechanical thing, stuff happens. It's how the repair is being handled....FCA has basically impounded my truck for 3-10 (plus the repair time) while they 'investigate' the problem. They have offered no communication, no schedule, no plan, no anything. And if I fix the truck on my own they void the remaining warranty (2 years B2B and 4 on the powertrain). Initially I wasn't offered a loaner, I elevated the issue with the dealer and they stepped up. This is 2018, I can chat with some of the designers of the new Ram on social media. Despite all of that FCA can't or won't communicate with me, which makes a bad problem only worse

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They can't void all your warranty for a drive line break. They can refuse to cover the shaft and any associated damage, but that's it.
 
They can't void all your warranty for a drive line break. They can refuse to cover the shaft and any associated damage, but that's it.
So far I have had no direct communication from FCA regarding this cluster. The dealer informed me that the communication from FCA was that if I did not allow FCA to inspect the truck they would void the warranty. Could I obtain legal counsel, perhaps? Would it be worth it? I'd rather not go down that road. I'd rather just have the truck repaired.
 
The Yoke failed, (Snapped) BC the U-Joint Failed, it stressed the Yoke beyond its strength when trying to get it un-stuck. The U-joint failed because of corrosion to the cup bearings allowing movement and BOOM to the Joint ,Followed by BOOM to the YOKE, all this mostly happened in less than 1 Second.


You keep talking about corrosion, I don't see it. I can't tell by the pictures the sequence of events. It would help if we had all the pieces to look at. It appears the u-joint still had grease. Why did it fail? Especially in snow?

My '01 is original with 325k miles, I use 4x4, low range on dry ground almost every time I make a cinder delivery. I hold my breath every time I feel it bind up.
 
Nick, you need to make a 2 low kit for your rig. 12 volt normally open solenoid valve inline to the supply of the shift fork.
Flip toggle switch (wired to solenoid) which blocks the vacuum supply to the shift fork, shift t case into 4low, and muaaa. 2 low. ;)
I've still got mine from my 98 that I pulled off when I sold it.
 
You keep talking about corrosion, I don't see it. I can't tell by the pictures the sequence of events. It would help if we had all the pieces to look at. It appears the u-joint still had grease. Why did it fail? Especially in snow?


If you save the picture to PC, you will see the rust on the needle bearing surfaces, and that pink color has no value its cake hard, the chemicals suck all its lubricating value.
 
Nick, you need to make a 2 low kit for your rig. 12 volt normally open solenoid valve inline to the supply of the shift fork.
Flip toggle switch (wired to solenoid) which blocks the vacuum supply to the shift fork, shift t case into 4low, and muaaa. 2 low. ;)
I've still got mine from my 98 that I pulled off when I sold it.

I have looked at those 4x2 kits and probably should get one. However, 90% of the time I need the front axle driving too. Like Thursday, I backed in a bad soft spot between a tree and the guys porch (where he wanted me). When the truck weighs 5 ton and the trailer weighs 9 ton, sinking in the ground about 2-3" what do you do, Lol I would really like to have a medium duty dump truck but don't want to deal with all the red tape of a big truck. As long as I stay 3/4 ton, I am exempt, as long as I stay under 20 hours a week.
 
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