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Rear axle service.

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Two steering related questions

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FWIW,
My 5500 and previous 4500 rear axles doesn't have a rear differential cover... just remove one of the third member bolts that doubles as a drain. I don't feel at risk not being able to remove a cover. I replace fluid warm, remove bolt, let drain until drip, use floor jack to raise one side to drain axle tube for an hour or so, then repeat on the other side. I replace drain bolt, and fill to bottom of fill hole.

On former 2500s/3500, I replaced rear differential cover at first fluid replacement with MagHytec with drain plug and performed fluid replacement emptying tubes as previously mentioned.

Nothing wrong with removing cover if there is one to remove. For those of us who don't have one to remove, it doesn't matter.

Anhoo, I imagine if you want to pay to have it removed, also nothing wrong with that if it gives you better peace of mind.

Cheers, Ron
 
Well, since they are putting exactly the same type of oil in (grade / mfg, / etc) they assume some residual oil is not enough to hurt the longevity under normal use and its alot faster and less risk of a leak for the tech... Makes you wonder if they did their service interval setting based on a % new oil change vs. a complete oil change? FWIW, my 350 in my 1992 ski boat gets the oil sucked out of the dipstick every year and I never get all 5qts out.. but it doesn't get worked as hard as our rear axles...:cool:
Do they have to use same lubricant? Forgot to ask.
 
They will use what is specified, same as OE fill.

IMHO far better for less $$$ out there.

I even pulled my MagHytec cover every time.
 
It's standard protocol according to dealer. They don't remove the dif cover. Meets warranty requirements for max care as well.

Go figure?!
Any way one slices it....it’s simply lazy.

I always removed my cover when servicing.

At the verrrrrrry least....the dealer could have loosened the bolts without removing them, then allowed it to drain, and then reattach cover.
 
Any way one slices it....it’s simply lazy.

I always removed my cover when servicing.

At the verrrrrrry least....the dealer could have loosened the bolts without removing them, then allowed it to drain, and then reattach cover.


I thought you were OK with "Partial Fluid Changes". :D
 
Yesterday I had the dealer perform rear axle service at 28000 miles. She shows 17k with the ATC behind it. With that and comments on this forum that factory Fluid is weak at best, I thought best to get it out.129.00 later I look at the invoice and they evacuated it. I thought the dif cover had to be removed? Seems the easy way out?

Your thoughts are appreciated.

That’s the norm for most shops since it’s faster and easier.

Next time don’t wait so long on the fluid, as you were actually 8K miles overdue on junk fluid. There is a TSB about not going past 20K miles with frequent towing, and 60% of your miles are towing.

Personally I’d do it yourself and use a better fluid.

My last gear lube change on the Jeep I just sucked it out so I didn’t have to deal with an RTB gasket.
 
At the verrrrrrry least....the dealer could have loosened the bolts without removing them, then allowed it to drain, and then reattach cover.

You mean fully remove the cover to wipe the build up off it and clean any odd stuff that gets in the gasket? I tried just loosening the bolts on the front diff and there was some solid crud that managed to get on the gasket surface. Not sure from where, but, I had to finish removing the cover and wipe the gasket down so it would seal well.
 
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I pull cover clean it, clean magnetic plug, wipe out inside bottom diff, clean gasket and surface of diff where gasket makes contact. Re assemble and fill with AMZ/OIL SevereGear to the bottom of fill hole.

Dealer should do no less.
 
Going to drive it to the market and drain it tonight when she's warmed up, I assume this is the same as my 04 3500 and does not require any friction modifier added for the LSD?
 
I have not used any in mine when I have changed it but I have been using Amsoil severe gear in it and when I used it in my 01 which did say it needed the modifier I did not need it with the Amsoil severe gear. Now that I type that out that really doesn't answer your question unless you are using the severe gear.
 
Looks like factory used Loctite on the pan bolts... fun to get out with the ABS bracket... any one putting Loctite back on? I was going to tq to 25, same as the drain plug.
 
19+ switched to a clutch style LSD so friction modifier is back on the table. You may not need it thou with the Amsoil.
 
On my 01 Sport I contacted AMZ/OIL they said no modifier needed with the SevereGear.

If towing heavy as I do one should run the 75-110 SG.
 
Well all is cleaned and filled up level to the fill plug and done. Seems like it took more than I thought it would to fill to the level point, but who knows, I did let them drain for awhile. Seems like both ends were about a pint or so more than my 04 was, but I dont have the specs for the 20' yet.

The severe gear normally doesn’t need a modifier, but occasionally it does.

Thanks John, I'll keep any ear for axle chatter, but hopefully it'll be fine with out since I am fresh out of modifier in the cabinet and dont have the spec to add it.
 
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