Rear end sag with load

[Dean Upson]

As I have previously posted, I really like my Timbrens. I have heard others that carry a fairly heavy load all the time complain about the ride. I have a toolbox and my hitch in the truck most of the time and the weight does not affect the ride. This is what they look like without the load.



Dean



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[ray1933]

Timbrens

Dean



Mine came with the same steel part that you photo shows. I would have to had to jack my truck up to get them mounted and they would been in contact all the time. I emailed Timbrens and they sent me the new mounts you see. They said the ones like yours were the old style and sent me these at no cost. I have the steel part like yours as they did not want them back.



I do not understand the difference in distance from the frame to the axle in your truck and mine. With mine mounted the way they are now if I get on some rough roads they do make contact and you get a bounce from that.



With the horse trailer hooked up they are in contact and as I said in the other post the ride is stiffer. That is why I'm going to only use them when I haul the camper. But with the camper they are perfect.

 

[ray1933]

Timbrens

The photo did attach to the post so here it is.

 

[Hunter1]

Well, after much reading and discussion with many, I went with the Firestone air bags. Had them installed this afternoon along with a heavy duty set of shocks



Can't believe how light duty the factory shocks on a 3500 are!



Anyway, have 20# in them right now as liked the look of the truck with the 20# and that will give me 1,000# more capacity before the sag starts. So far so good, I always run with maximum air in my tires also as learned that in pursuit driving class.



It did not seem to affect the ride much and won't know how the trailer towing is until about 10 days from now.



Will report back after the trailer tow and I get a chance to drive it more on some rough roads to see how the ride is



Hunter1

 

[SilverFox]

Hunter1, Hope the Firestones meet your needs. If they don't you can always go to the Kelderman 4-Link system. I'll bet Jeff (Turbo) Kelderman would even remove the Firestones at no charge.

 

[Hunter1]

Well guys/girls I am very happy with the Firestone Airbags. I just got back from a trip towing my RV which used to be 2" below level at the front of the hitch.



With the air bags I put in 40# and it leveled the rear end right up!



And, I didn't take the air out after I parked the RV and it was not rough riding at all to my taste, but I run max air in my tires which most don't either because they make the ride rougher.



Anyway, I am happy to report, I am very happy with the Firestone Airbags!



So far, I would recommend them to anyone who wants to beef up the rear end sag with a load.



Time will tell on how tough they are and how long they last



But, so far, so good!



Hunter1

 

[SilverFox]

Hunter1,

Good to hear the Firestones are working out. From what I've heard the longevity is excellent.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I'm going to get them this month and this will be the second truck I've used them on. At my work their used to support vibration tables that are used to test electronic aircraft assemblies. Their all made by Firestone and most have been vibrating 6-8 hours a day for the last 15+ years. You cant beat their longevity.

 

[brillmtb]

As far as sag goes I didnt hear anyone mention the use of weight distributing hitches. I use one and not only is the sag just fine the overall handling is improved. I would think this would be a better option than airbags on the rear unless you are speaking about campers on the bed or heavy loads in the bed. ?????

 

[SilverFox]

I use a powerful weight distributing hitch and my front axel is right at its limit when I leave on a trip in my RV. I load my truck to 11500 + lbs. and my trailer has a gross of 11700 lbs. That puts me 200 + lbs. over the combined weight of 23000 lbs. I try not to load the trailer more than 11500 lbs. With those weights, air bags of some kind are the only answer. With air bags I allow up to 2 inches sag in the rear. With the weight on the front the rear is still higher by 1-2 inches than in the front. In other words my front sags by 1 or 2 inches.

 

[Hunter1]

When you guys speak of weight managing hitches, do you mean like EZ lift bars? The 1,000# ones that hike the rear end up and put it to the front end?



I use that and it did not help me one bit, as my hitch height is 32"



The only thing helped me was the Firestone air bags



Hunter1

 

[SilverFox]

A weight distributing hitch can add weight to the front axel but with a heavy hitch weight it's not going to lift the rear end much. Air is the answer.

 

[Hunter1]

Silverfox



I believe you are right, air is the answer and I still have 40# in the bags after unhooking. It is not smoothe per say, but not that bad if you are used to driving a truck!



I really didn't by Daisy for a soft ride, I wanted a comfortable ride, which she still gives me even with heavy duty shocks and 40# in the air bags!



Love my Dodge!



Hunter1

 

[jimnance]

I installed Timbrens because of the high pin weight of my fiver - about 3,200 lbs. I wanted to maintain a reasonable ride when unloaded, and keep the ride level when towing.



The first set were too long and touched the rear axle all the time. I called Timbren and they immediately sent out a set of shorter springs. Now the springs are 3/4" off the axle when I'm not towing. I still have a good ride when empty, and the truck sits perfectly when loaded. Sure, the ride is a little firmer when towing, but the same would be true of airbags if inflated to the same support level.



I'm a firm believer in "keep it simple stupid". Nothing really to fail with the Timbren system. With the installation of the new 19. 5" rims and F rated tires I'm set to go travelling. I have no doubt that I could put 4,000 lbs in the back if I really needed to. I prefer a safety margin, and the Timbrens/Tires/Rims give me some.

 

[Dean Upson]

My Timbrens have been on for over a year and I am very pleased with them. I have about 3/4" clearance empty as you do. No worry about a punctured bag and different air pressures. Very easy to install and as you said "K. I. S. S. "



Dean

 

[DSTEPHENSON]

I have been dealing with Timbren the past few days. When I ordered mine I requested 45 which is a soft rubber. When I received them they were 65 very hard rubber and they were 1/4 inch longer than the space between the frame and the axle. When I called them Jim at Timbren said the 45 rubber was for 1/2 ton. Said he would send me shorter rubber. When I received the package I only recieved 1 and it was a 65. I called him back and asked what I was supposed to do with 1. That was a packing problem at their end. I told him I didn't want 65 and would not mount them so now I'm waiting on the short 55 rubber. The 55 is a softer rubber than the 65. The 65 was like steel. My problem is slamming on the overloads with my 5er of about 2300 lbs on the pin. Get a lot of harsh up and down movement on the bad bumps on the interstate. Now I'm wondering if Air bags would have been better. I'm also thinking I may put Bilstein shocks on next.

 

[geusterman]

The overloads on your 3500 are a good thing but the distance to the overload causes a squat. I like the ride of the longer springs when empty but they "get us" when we load. So I made a spacer that I bolt where the rubber overload stops are and move the rubber stop to the spacer. I put my Hi Lift in the hitch hole and raise things a bit, put the spacers on and lower the truck. Takes just a few minutes. Then, when I put the camper on (my load) it starts on the overloads right away. NOW, the next phase is to put the rubber stops back on the frame stops and make a spacer that slips on the overloads with a cable between to keep them from sliding off the overload. Easy and quick. Carry them with me. George

 

[DKlimas]

Raise Overloads?

The camper is on the truck most of the time and I find that the overloads are just kissing the bump stops. Suspension travel while riding down a smooth road is fine. When the road gets rougher the overloads engage and disengage the bump stops which results in an annoying "slapping" described earlier. At this point rather than resort to adding bags or the like, my thought is to raise the overload spring pack - say 1/2 inch to start. This should cause the overloads to engage sooner and eliminate the slap. Raising the spring pack should be relatively easy by adding an additional spacer to the ones already there. The "U" bolts seem to be long enough to add about 3/4 inch spacers. Longer spring pack bolts would be needed.

Maybe this change could address several of the squatting issues? Any thoughts or suggestions?



TIA - Dave

 

[geusterman]

Dave... reread my input above your last message. You have to close the gap between the overloads and the stops but don't lift the spring pack. Fill the space! That way you have a nice 2" soft ride when empty. Not hard to make some spacers. Easier than moving spring paks. George

 

[DKlimas]

George, I reread my post also and I guess it was poorly worded. What I meant to say is; raise the overload spring pack relative to the main spring pack (there already are a couple of spacers in there). This way the overloads are closer to the bump stops without changing the height/position of the main pack. Just another way to close the gap and allow the overloads to engage sooner.



Dave