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rear hub running hot

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Brake question for 92

2nd Blown Headgasket

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hope someone can help meon this one. i noticed the right rear hub was running hot to the touch compared to the other three hubs so upon investigation i found the brake shoes were metal to metal. i did a complete brake job including shoes,cylinders,drumsand springs. also replaced the bearings and seal on right side. the right rear hub slill runns much hotter than the left. i checked the brakes for drag and found none, the drums slides off and on easily. there does seem to be a tight spot when rotating the wheel but no sound of the brake shoes dragging, is it possible the axle could be bent and causing the bearings to bind? btw the hub seems to run slightly cooler with the bearing nut backed off 1/2 turn instead of 1/3 turn like the manual states. Thanks for any replies and keep on smokin :cool:
 
How tight are you torquing the nut to before backing off? Are you spinning the wheel as you torque it down? Soudns like you may need to back off the nut half a turn. Or more. You want just enough to remove endplay, but not get too tight. Like most bearings, too loose is preferrable to ANY BIT too tight.



The axle being bent shouldnt place any added stress on the bearings, unless you mean the 4" tube. Wait, yeah it could. Something else to check.



Daniel
 
I tightened the nut to zero lash then backed it off 1/3 turn as per the manual. hub still ran hot so i backed it off to 1/2 turn, it still runs much warmer than the other side which is only backed off 1/4 turn
 
This happend on my 92 your brakes are fine ,its your e-brake cabel replace them on both sides are your good to go ,mine was fraid and sticking on
 
I forgot to mention in my original post that i disconnected the brake cable on that side to eliminate the possibility that that was causing the hub to run hot. so im still back to thinking that even though its a full floating hub the axle may be bent just enough to cause the bearing to bind slightly and cause the hub to run hot?
 
hub running hot

on the e-brake did you completely remove the cabel ,becausemine was fraid on the inside were it connects inside preventing it to release
 
no, i disconnected it from the 2 to 1 connector then took the hub off and had a friend lightly step on the brake pedal several times while i watched the shoes expand and retract, the shoes went back to fully seated every time
 
I packed the new bearings with bearing grease to prevent dry running. last time i had the hub off the diff. lube had washed the bearing grease out and appeared to be lubing the bearing fine
 
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