2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rearend leak

[Kernel]

Noticed the seal around the yoke on the rearend of my 97 is leaking pretty good. Other than marking the yoke and using a puller, is there any other tricks to replacing the seal? How much lube loss can I bet on once I pull it?



Scott

 

[B.G. Smith]

You don't have to mark the yoke, if it's not indexed it won't matter. You also won't lose much if any lube if the rear is fairly level. The torque on the nut for a Dana 70 is 220 to 280 ft. lb. bg

 

[bmoeller]

If you have big socket, you can use it, instead of the seal driver to install the seal.



I would mark the yoke and respective bearing caps. But as BG said, no need to, in relation to the housing.

 

[Kernel]

Where is the best place to get the seal? Any part numbers?



Scott

 

[GAmes]

Scott, plan on getting a new yoke as well. When mine started seeping the seal had cut a groove into the yoke and the new one had no where to seal. Got mine from Blumenthals.

 

[Kernel]

Gary, going to be in Killeen 16-18th visiting the girlfriend, then on to S. A. for a couple of months for Officer Advanced Course. Gonna be around? Sorry I missed you the last time you came through, I was TDY to White Sands Missile Range.



Scott

 

[Extreme1]

You've got a Dana 80, the pinion yoke torque is around 450 ft-lbs. Since I'm willing to bet your torque wrench doesn't go that high, scribe a small line on the nut and the shaft before you loosen it, then retorque it to the same (or slightly more) place. That's what I did. My yoke was OK but I did polish the little groove with some 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper.



Oh yeah, you'll need a puller to get the yoke off too. They are a light press fit.



There won't be much (if any) lube loss.

 

[Kernel]

Thanks for the help guys, I got the seal, looks small to me. Is this the right one?